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Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:57 am

I'm doing my rear bearings on my 71 Riviera right now. Couple of question. 1st. Is this still the original outer bearing? The brand name is DURKUPP. It has the word GERMANY and part number 520228. I can tell the seal is still the original coz I can see the VW logo and part number. 2nd. If you look at the photo closely, the rollers have some scratches or gouges in the middle part but both outer part are smooth. The inner race is smooth but I can tell that the rollers only ride on the outer part of the race which are smooth, no pitting. Is this normal? Should I replace it or just repack? There's a little play between the race but when I check the new one that I have (INA), it's the same thing.

I'm guessing my inner bearing is still original as well. I'm not hearing any kind of noise or humming. I just open it to repack. I don't want to destroy the inner seal because it's still the original as well. Or should I, to see the condition of the inner bearing? Do original VW bearings last more than 40 years? Or just replace all of them to be on the safe side? I have new FAG (Brazil) for inner and INA (no origin) for outer as replacement.

Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:21 am

I replaced all of my bearing and brakes when I bought my bus. Just because you never know how old they are and what the PO has done before you. This ofcourse is just my two cents. Good luck!

Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:32 am

wipe it cleaner and inspect the race closely. If there is no bluing or scratching, and the originals are SKF, Timiken, or FAG I would leave it alone and repack it. Use new seals. Many of the aftermarket outer bearings are just junk these days. REALLY

Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:46 am

Personally I would never reuse a bearing if you find damage to it of any kind.

Scuffing is a sign of lubricant failure or misalignment (when caught early).....but any scratches or spalling/rough spots are due to metal to metal contact that went through the surface hardening.
If you have an otherwise perfect bearing but spalling to the race or grooves in the race...the bearing may be servicable with a new race....but bear in mind....that worn off metal went somehwere.
Typically a damaged race may be due to a poor quality race, a race that was less hardened and died first when lubricant failed, was contaminated or squeezed out.....or was poorly aligned or damaged during install.

It has been my experience that installing a "seemingly" undamaged bearing with a new race almost always means a shorter life for one or the other or both. It can save money and time in the short term....but is false economy in my book.

Also anytimecyou put a bearing with a race....they wear into each other. Meaning...they wear each other. Putting a bearing with worn geometry into a race with new geometry almost always results in heavy or fast wear. Ray

Wed Jul 23, 2014 12:22 pm

How much play did you have when you grapped the top and bottom of the bearing and shook it? If the play is minimal then it is likely okay to go with the old bearings. What do you mean you don't want to damage the old worn out seal??? Get a tool in there, yard it out, and replace it. It will not take much water or dirt entering the bearing through a failing seal to destroy the bearings in short order.

A needle on a grease gun is about the best way I know to force new grease through the bearings rollers. The inner bearing can be greased from the outer side of the hub by forcing new grease into the bearing and continually removing the old grease that gets forced out where the inner seal goes. Once the spacer and outer bearing inner race are in place you can force grease through the outer bearing into the void between the bearings. You can't get 100% of the old grease out this way but your can get much of it.

Each time I work on the brakes, I remove and replace the outer seal. While the seal is out a bit more new grease gets forced through the bearing.

Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:02 pm

I did re-install both bearings back. The inner race of the outer bearing looks like new and the play is minimal. Since the race is riding on the outer part of the rollers which are silky smooth also, I'm not gonna worry about it. The inner bearing is a FAG GERMAN made which is also like new (is that an OG bearing?) coz both seal were OG so I'm thinking my bearings are still original. Or maybe the PO just used OG VW seal?

I cleaned both bearings and the hub real good and repack with new grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic). Yes! I used new seal :). I'll do the left tomorrow. :?

Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:35 am

You'll notice that the outer roller bearing depicted in the Bentley manual for 71-on bays is different than what
you have. That later style with the separate inner race is the only bearing available these days. I don't know
when the earlier style was discontinued, but I think it was well into the seventies or even later, i.e., no '71 bus was originally
equipped with the kind of rear outer bearing you have.