The Quaint Gypsy |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:46 am |
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Hello
I am looking to install a Dakota Digital Cylinder Head Temperature gauge and sensor set up in my 70 Bay with a 1776 T1 engine.
I am curious what temps I should need to know is time to pull over and take a nap please.
Thank you! |
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Randy in Maine |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:54 am |
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450º F.
Set that bad boy to flash at 425º and don't watch it until there is something to see (ie it is flashing). |
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The Quaint Gypsy |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 12:17 pm |
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ok, thank you! |
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Randy in Maine |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 12:41 pm |
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Really there is not much need for a CHT in a Type 1 engine.
You have far more "meat" in the heads than we Type 4 guys do and you will run out of power (torque) before you heat up the heads. You would be better off to have an oil pressure and oil temperture gauge IMO. |
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airschooled |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 2:06 pm |
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This has been covered a few times for different reasons.
There is no "hard and fast" temp that T1 engines fail at. Just like oil temp and pressure, getting to know your engine's trends will be better than sticking to numbers.
When you notice that, in similar conditions under similar throttle, your temps are higher, you will know something is up. I like my gauge, because it has caught vacuum leaks, because I can see trends and predict fuel economy, becuase it lets me know that I forgot to reconnect my choke wire, and because I know the engine is tuned and running 100% when I see trending temps that I know.
For example, Last weekend it was 80* out, and I floored it up three mountain passes in 4th gear. I COULD NOT break 400*, and power was the same it has always been. 18mpg. I kept the throttle very reserved on the way back, and the speed between 45 and 55. High of 373*, 26mpg. When I reinstalled the carb after cleaning it, I forgot the choke wire, and I could not get it over 320* on the freeway because the choke was causing it to run super rich. Power felt fine, so I would have wasted many gallons of gas before I discovered it. On a 100* day from Phoenix to San Diego, a dual port boot ripped and caused a vacuum leak. Temps immediately went to 430* under full throttle, where they used to only go up to 410* in that heat.
Like I said earlier, exact numbers aren't law, but knowing that I can't go far past 400* means that if I see 420*+ I need to check myself, least I wreck myself. 8)
Some think that because valve seats are installed at 450* that they will fall out at 450*. I don't know, beacuse I don't EVER let my gauge go past 440*, even uphill with a headwind, vacuum leak, bad gas, and a deadline.
Randy in Maine wrote: ...you will run out of power (torque) before you heat up the heads. You would be better off to have an oil pressure and oil temperture gauge IMO.
True, unless you have a vacuum leak or timing issue, which won't be caught immediately, if at all on either of those gauges. Tuned properly, the stock doghouse-T1 isn't powerful to destroy itself. Maybe a 1776 generates enough power/heat? |
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The Quaint Gypsy |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:26 pm |
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Well, when I bought the bus, I took it to my mech and they checked it out. They said the heads were fine but I should get swivel feet adjusters. When I went to put them in,, it was impossible to adjust the values; they were just too tight. So I put the stock adjusters back on and drove here to their shop and it turned out the keepers were all but gone on the heads. Something they failed to notice a few weeks beforehand. So, I got a ride home and left my bus for repairs, which I said "do what you need so I do not have to do this again anytime soon, even if that means rebuilding the entire engine" So it turned out not only did I need the heads rebuilt but the cylinders had pits inside them and were very worn so now cylinders, pistons, and rings too. They said inside the case seemed tight but I have no idea WHAT is inside the case cos the PO didn't know and the person they said built the engine insisted he never touched it). BUT when I bought the bus, It was supposed to be a 1914cc and turned out to have 1835cc size cylinder setup. SO since 1835s run too hot to have in a bus, I opted to put it down to a 1776. I also wanted a deep sump oil cooler put on so I had larger oil capacity and cooling but they did not put one on as it is a tad lowered. (not totally slammed though)
I live in a very warm climate area (average summer day temp 100 up to 120 degrees) and so the engine running during the summer days is a concern. I do the dipstick check, but she smells warm so I want to be sure the heads are not running too hot, ya know? I just had that engine fixed and given I am retired and on a fixed budget with no credit cos my income is too low, I want to do the prevention rather than the correction, ya know? |
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Tcash |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:57 pm |
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A little temperature gauge info.
CHT Nirvana
Here is a little information. Good Luck
Pronunciation (Samba) English
Cleaning+Rodents+Hantavirus
Up in smoke... Bus fires... don't let it happen to you!
Volkswagen Type 2 Bus M-Plate Decoder
Bus VIN / Chassis Numbers
Type 2/Bus Owner's Manuals
Bus repair manuals
Bus parts manuals
Early Baywindow Bus Parts Book
Late Baywindow Bus Parts Fiche
Type 2 Wiring Diagrams
Model and Year Variations
Type 4: Secrets Revealed
Distributor Parts & Specifications
PARTS INTERCHANGE MANUAL
Youtube Videos
There is a ton of information located at the top of the Forum section.
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The Quaint Gypsy |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 9:26 pm |
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Yeah, I have read a lot of forum posts here and elsewhere but I still have not seen a low threshold point to be aware of for a 1776, hence my question in my post but I will read all the posts you pointed out (again in most part). Thank you for the help! :D
( I do not have rodents, nor is my bus dirty or unhealthy LOL) And my dad was factory trained in Wisconsin in the late 50's an early 60's. My first car was a 61 ragtop I got in 73 and my dad made me work on it myself if I wanted it. I have done 99 percent of all my VW work myself since then and I have owned well over 15 since then. There is obviously new technology I did not mess with nor need since then. I am just asking for direct info on a part I never used before. I thought that is what this forum was for...)
I have the factory manuals; THEY do not cover this issue and Atwell covers the T4, GBH. But I no longer have my 73 bus with a pancake.... and these days, it is far and in between in the rural are I am in to find anyone who will touch em... |
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airschooled |
Wed Jul 23, 2014 10:56 pm |
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The Quaint Gypsy wrote:
I have the factory manuals; THEY do not cover this issue and Atwell covers the T4, GBH. But I no longer have my 73 bus with a pancake.... and these days, it is far and in between in the rural are I am in to find anyone who will touch em...
The manuals don't cover CHTs, because VW didn't publicly measure them when they were still invested in air-cooled production. At least they didn't provide a gauge or threshold specs for them. Maybe this was due to technology limitations, but I doubt it. T1 heads are so stout, like I said, that you can't ruin them in a well-tuned-VW-designed 1600. Mess with their recipe and you have no guarantees.
Set it to flash at a high temp for your bus and ignore it otherwise. For me, I flash at 430*. That catches vacuum leaks and fan obstructions. |
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