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Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:34 pm

Hello,
So i'm planning on building a 1915 for my 73 bug. I'm looking for any advice or a heads up if the engine components will "clash" with each other. As of right now i will be using :
-CB super case punched for 94's
-Forged Mahle pistons and cylinders
-5.4'" CB H-Beam rods
-CB 69 forged chromoly crank
-Mahle main/rod/cam bearings
-Engle 120 cam? with Engle lifters
-Scat forged 1:25:1 forged rockers
-Scat high performance wide mouth push rod tubes with Engle pushrods
-CB 044 mag heads with 42x37 valves

Thank you in advance for looking, im new to this and i appreciate any criticism good or bad.
Im lookin to spend $4500 tops

Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:39 pm

Build your bottom end, set deck and then order your heads flycut to desired compression. I would use a nice ported 40x35 head not the stock CB 044's. You probably will need 50-52cc chambers..... I like the new 049 revmasters or Steve Tims heads...

Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:44 pm

MURZI wrote: Build your bottom end, set deck and then order your heads flycut to desired compression. I would use a nice ported 40x35 head not the stock CB 044's. You probably will need 50-52cc chambers..... I like the new 049 revmasters or Steve Tims heads...
Sorry for the dumb question but what do you mean by " set deck " ?

Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:12 pm

40x35 heads is all you need. http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1398
I'd even skip the 1.25 rockers and use stock 1.1 rockers with stock push rod tubes.

What carbs? What exhaust?

Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:18 pm

http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0303vwt_compression_ratio/

Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:43 pm

vwracerdave wrote: 40x35 heads is all you need. http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1398
I'd even skip the 1.25 rockers and use stock 1.1 rockers with stock push rod tubes.

What carbs? What exhaust?

I was thinking big valve heads with high lift rockers and big exhaust, so is all that not worth it??

Single weber 44idf and 2" merged header with stinger

Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:45 pm

MURZI wrote: http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0303vwt_compression_ratio/ If i buy a set of heads cut for 94's will i have to get anything on them machined? Thanks.

Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:45 pm

You can buy and just slap em in, but you'll be much happier with some port work. Power is in the heads. Remember. Vw motor is an air pump. The more you can move the faster you go. But too much flow is not good either. Everything must compliment each other. Read read and read more.

Wed Aug 13, 2014 5:58 pm

Read this article several time and then read it again. There are several more good articles on that site http://www.aircooled.net/vw-performance-engines/

2" header would be grossly too big.

1915cc
40x35 heads with dual springs
W-120 cam with 1.1 rockers.
single 44 IDF
1 1/2" exhaust.

40x35 heads are good for 160 HP engine.

Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:02 pm

just make sure you dont go low compression with that cam. 9 or 9.5 to 1 and it will run great. Lower and it will be soggy.
If you have the cash now, grab a 74 crank. Sell that 69 at the swap to someone who wants a stock motor.
The extra arm will make you smile and smile.

Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:03 pm

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1107

insane cheap

Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:38 pm

Jesse1914 wrote: You can buy and just slap em in, but you'll be much happier with some port work. Power is in the heads. Remember. Vw motor is an air pump. The more you can move the faster you go. But too much flow is not good either. Everything must compliment each other. Read read and read more.

But will Cnc heads be benificial since I will be running a single Carb with stock VW intake manifolds not big beef ported manifolds??

Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:41 pm

mightymouse wrote: just make sure you dont go low compression with that cam. 9 or 9.5 to 1 and it will run great. Lower and it will be soggy.
If you have the cash now, grab a 74 crank. Sell that 69 at the swap to someone who wants a stock motor.
The extra arm will make you smile and smile.

Low compression requires higher octane gas right?? If so what compression ratio do you recommend and a can to compliment it. I want to run 91 octane

Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:47 pm

1slo73 wrote: Jesse1914 wrote: You can buy and just slap em in, but you'll be much happier with some port work. Power is in the heads. Remember. Vw motor is an air pump. The more you can move the faster you go. But too much flow is not good either. Everything must compliment each other. Read read and read more.

But will Cnc heads be benificial since I will be running a single Carb with stock VW intake manifolds not big beef ported manifolds??

No no to single carb and cam over w100. Big time reversion. Give us a budget and I am sure 20 people will chime in.

Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:41 pm

I'm looking to spend no more than $4,500.
If i buy this kit http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1181 will i have to do any other modifications before assembly? I appreciate everyone that has chimed in. :D

Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:03 pm

For that much money I'd consider a longblock from ACN: http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Aircooled-Net-Mini-Stroker-VW-Long-Block-p/mini-stroker-long-block.htm

You can build a 1915 for that much or less with exhaust and carbs. I'm a good amount less than that into my 1835 (1915 would have cost the same), but I had a usable used case.

Stan

Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:06 pm

That is a great kit. You will need dual 44 idf carbs, 550 bucks, ignition 125 bucks, clutch 150 bucks, exhaust 150 bucks, breather system and other ancillaries 150 bucks. Great foundation and should go together easy.

Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:01 pm

MURZI wrote: That is a great kit. You will need dual 44 idf carbs, 550 bucks, ignition 125 bucks, clutch 150 bucks, exhaust 150 bucks, breather system and other ancillaries 150 bucks. Great foundation and should go together easy.

I may sound like a little b**ch but for my first car/engine build i want to stay away form dual carbs. I am fine with a loss of HP if i run a singl 44 or 48 idf but in all honesty will a 1915 run on a single carb? Thank you for all of your advice it is greatly appreciated

Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:20 pm

It will be a learning curve anyway. Plenty of people run duals successfully, no reason you can't make it work if the carbs aren't damaged. Duals will be more expensive to rejet due to having more jets, especially 2-barrel ones, but iDFs respond to changes very easily when they are working and aren't difficult to learn at all IMO. ICTs I owned once were super simple to use (may be too small for you), Kads I have are also easy and work well, but linkage etc. is much crappier than Redline Spanish IDFs I am running now.

Good set of 40 IDFs with a linkage and manifolds can be had for $500 or less, a bit more for 44 IDFs. Most annoying thing about them so far is clogged idle jets.

Stan

Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:00 am

Guarantee you'll be chiming in sometime in the future saying that you should have just started with duals. They're not scary. Just make sure you take the time and put aside the money to have them properly tuned. I tell my clients to have at least $3-400 for jetting and wideband tuning. That's just not duals btw. ANY carb/s need extensive tuning. Nothing just bolts on and works perfectly.

If you're insistent on a single IDF, then build a low RPM engine.

AGAIN, MAKE SURE YOU SET ASIDE TUNING MONEY. You need to rent or buy a wideband AND jets, which are $5 each x 8 maybe. If you're lucky, you'll size them right the first time. Most are not that lucky.

Oh, and though the billets that Clay Smith cams are made on are the same as Engle, Clay Smith has much higher quality machine work than Engle. A little extra work to an Engle can make one just as nice though.