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Sun Sep 07, 2014 5:53 pm

My stock 67 westy started to leak from the oil cooler seals and I realized I may have been running the wrong seals. I've read lots of threads and seen the links, just looking for the extra go ahead to get the correct seals.

OR is this the time to ditch it all and go with a doghouse set up!!?

Gotta say, I've been around VW's a long time and had know idea there were so many oil cooler seal options. Although I probably should have known... theres always extras laying around from the rebuild kits. Thanks for any help... opinions. I was running the black seals and they are a bit taller than the red ones which seem to fit more snug.

Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:11 pm

Each subtle combination is slightly different, in my experience. I keep a whole quiver of seals. Problem I see is you have a big-hole cooler with a little-hole case. There is a transition seal that you put a washer under the single stud to space it up a smidge.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111117151C

Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:57 pm

Hi Jeremy, they should be the smaller red ones( not the large orange).
Also sad to say but if your engine is the original one H case like it should be, those cases are notorious to be prone to cracks on top and on the sides, so if the leaks persist after you have changed the seals,
try to run the engine for a minute without tins and fan shroud and check for leaks on top..
They are not easy to spot if you just look at the case with engine off
but easier if there is pressure and case is a little hot..
good luck

Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:00 pm

Years ago, I converted an "H" single port engine to a dog house setup and put it in my 1963 camper. After buying the special seals for the oil cooler, it was easy to do. That sucker runs cool, even in the heat in Chico.

Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:57 pm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538617

Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:33 am

Thanks everyone... comfirmed what I've searched. Good link too. I need an 8 to 10 adapting seal. FYI those black seals were actually loose in the case. The red ones were overly snug and not tall enough. Hopefully the green (typically) will be just right.

Gotta love it, Red, black, green, white...spacers, adapters, no wonder this leads to some confusion.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 10:19 am

jeremy57ride wrote: I need an 8 to 10 adapting seal.

A little word on the adapters:

If you just put them in and add the washers they give you, a lot of times they will still leak after a while. They need just the right amount of pressure. You might have to go with thinner washers or only on one single stud.

I search through adapter seals and get the nice rich pliable light green ones, then cut off the cast-on lip and install them without the spacer washers. It feels spooky doing that, as if the big-hole end will cone closed, but it doesn't and seals better.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:12 pm

Thanks BarryL. I ordered a couple sets... just in case. I may try your method. I'm kicking myself a bit... I gave away a few doghouse shrouds over the last couple years... let alone the $1 tin deals at some swaps. Now here I am considering doghouse cooler. This is why we become hoarders!

Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:33 pm

This website is a wealth of info. At bottom is the oil cooler install tips that is a must to read and print out a copy.

http://oldvolkshome.com/

The copper plated washers in the 8 to 10 mm passage conversion seals kit are for only when using 8 mm passage engine case with 10 mm passage holes in non-DH cooler.

When you do go to DH shroud and cooler, make sure to use proper width cooling fan, ALL cooling tin and seals, and foam rubber seal over the DH cooler so all cooling air goes thru not around the cooler.

Converting the DH shroud and exhaust tin to install the 40% bigger type 4 cooler really helps to prevent spikes in oil temps in really hot weather.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 1:05 pm

I just did a doghouse conversion on a Brazilian single pressure case, used the green seals, no washers... I wasn't aware they were part of a kit. Everything went fine on the run stand, no leaks so far...

IMO, a type 4 cooler only really starts to show it's advantages if you flow additional air through it by increasing pulley ratio. A bigger cooler with the same amount of air flowing through it isn't going to gain you much.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 1:28 pm

Since you went to the DH cooler the copper plated washers are not needed for you. ONLY for non-DH 10 mm cooler with 8 mm oil passage case.

In extreme heat a 356 Porsche gen/alt pulley is a must for more fan RPM and more cooling air over both the entire engine and thru oil cooler.

Still without the 356 Porsche pulley the type 4 cooler being 40% bigger means 40% cooling surface and 40% more passage space so the oil has 40% more time to shed heat.

Either way one has to have a DH crank pulley that is bigger than any of the factory 1961 thru 1970 pulleys. Bigger lower pulley again means more fan RPM and more air pumped thru oil cooler and entire engine cooling.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:23 pm

jeremy57ride wrote: I gave away a few doghouse shrouds over the last couple years...

Don't kick yourself too hard. The H and older cases have small studs for the cooler and the doghouse offset piece requires large studs. You end up having a new set of problems like step-stud or drilling and tapping which each have a whole new set of hassles. Nothing wrong with a well done in-shroud set-up.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 4:07 pm

It was ten years ago but I think that i used the step-studs on my case. There has been no oil leak in all of that time and my engine has a stock crankshaft pulley. The main thing with the dog house setup is that the oil cooler is out of the fan housing and the air that has passed through it does not go over the number three cylinder, so it is cooler.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:24 pm

I did this conversion to an H case. You will have to drill out the two holes for the DH cooler adapter studs, the two outer holes on the cooler mounting area, they are M8 too.

Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:51 pm

Now I remember that I drilled out the two outer holes.

Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:20 pm

One step stud, drilled out case mount holes, large fan, doghouse cooler and base, doghouse fan shroud, frost king adhesive foam strip, Hoover bit, doghouse triangle, doghouse lower snout, doghouse front apron, rubber seals or 3m window mounting adhesive to seal the triangle and shroud, doghouse thermostat lever, and last but not least green step doghouse seal rings.

I've put the above on at least six engines. Never had an oil seal leak, all engines have run nice and cool.

Oh, and buy a new doghouse oil cooler, reusing one just isn't worth the risk of corrosion or clogging, IMHO.

Wed Sep 10, 2014 6:42 am

Thanks for all of the input... I have the green seals on the way and plan to get the bus back up and running for the remainder of the season. I'm also going to hit the end of the year swaps and collect the parts for the doghouse upgrade. I'm now curious if I was missing some cooling simply by running the wrong cooler seals.

Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:15 am

Thought I'd post for the closure of this issue... My confusion began with my "stock" set up. Problem being, replacement oil coolers are 10mm which need the adapter seals from the 8mm block. It's been covered here many times, but to be clear, if you think you're running totally stock, double check your coolers, they may be 10mm, as was mine. All good now, no leaks so far with this set up. Doghouse conversion pending... we'll see!

Thu May 21, 2015 9:57 am

Did you upgrade to DH yet?

Wed Jan 06, 2016 11:16 pm

For more information on Oil Cooler Seals. Please see.
Oil cooler seals
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