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Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:13 am

I am running a kep 1700 pound p/p and a copper head disk in my 70 bus. Also did a hd cross shaft with bronze bushings.

I fear something is going on. In order to even get any clutch action, I need to adjust the clutch so the cross shaft arm has about zero play. Its almost like I can't get enough throw on the cross shaft.

I am running a 71 bell, so it does have a guide sleeve.

I have it adjusted to work, but just barely. New cable (which will stretch). No ring on the p/p just like it should be.

Any thoughts? The pedal is right off the floor now, and will grind a tiny bit putting it in reverse. The pedal freeplay feels awful, but I don't want to over adjust it either...

Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:09 am

Just a thought but, it could be a problem with the pilot bearing in the glandnut. That would cause the input shaft to continue rotation.

Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:32 am

I had the same thing happen this spring with a 1 year old engine with all new clutch assembly, I pulled the engine thinking there was a leak and the clutch was slipping, chattering, or something was broke. Everything was normal looking. I chose to change the KEP P/P and it was back to normal.
I'm guessing there is problems with the KEP plates collapsing or not maintaining spring pressure again.

Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:14 am

The next time you have it open get that disk out of there, and put in a stock daiken disk. Your syncro rings will thank you if they already haven't been damaged yet

Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:29 am

Great....600 miles and this is the thanks I get? Awesome....

They were ez break in miles too.

So, what is a good setup for 200+ horse?

The clutch feels numb, like stepping on a water baloon. Was good for the first 3 400 miles, then I broke a (brand new) clutch cable.

Would a cable that was longer cause this? I had a replacement cable, but it was unmarked. The ends were a bit different. In desperation, I used it

Tue Sep 09, 2014 9:52 am

You don't have 200 hp, and a heavy (mass) disk will kill syncro rings. Also sounds like your diaphram on the pressure plate is hurt from over throwing it.

Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:06 am

mcmscott wrote: You don't have 200 hp.....

Bored, stroked and re worked subaru 2.5.....sorry buddy, but I have well over 200 horse

Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:13 am

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: mcmscott wrote: You don't have 200 hp.....

Bored, stroked and re worked subaru 2.5.....sorry buddy, but I have well over 200 horse

Forgive me, I thought you were refering to the 1904 that you question about. I use alot of subys in buggys. Show some pics of this conversion, I'd like to see it.

Tue Sep 09, 2014 12:09 pm

Fair enough, and good memory!

So show me some clutchs first!

So, what I am describing is a symptom of a failed p/p then? Just seems odd that it happened after the cable broke. I guess I will double check my cable length. As I said, it was an unmarked cable

Tue Sep 09, 2014 12:23 pm

With a 2.5 suby you need a 9" stage 3 and a 6 puck disk and to convert to hydraulic slave cylinder. The stock lever on the bottom of the pedal will break with this heavy of a clutch

Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:22 pm

So where are the pics? I did a suby in a 914 not long ago with CB's ecu. Would like to see some pics of an early bay with a radiator in it and what not

Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:00 pm

Here is the build

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=561788

The radiator(s) is now under the bus. Couldn't keep cool at 50 or above due to airflow. And nothing for nothing, I call bullshit on bus in bay rads. They work...if you don't go past 50, or enjoy running at the brink of meltdown

Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:39 pm

Didn't get a chance to read all of it, and I am not a bay window person, but sweet!

Wed Sep 10, 2014 5:22 pm

thanks!

so today, I got another clutch cable. it was about the length of the one that broke.

the one I put in was about 1/4 of an inch longer. I don't understand why being longer would have made the clutch feel like crap, but it did

put in the correct cable, and all is well. very odd, as you would figure the additional length should have been taken up by the wingnut.

now you guys have me concerned about the kennedy p/p. should I look into another alternative? or was there a rash of bad ones some time back?

Wed Sep 10, 2014 5:27 pm

There isn't much choice besides kennedy today. Just have to hope you got a good one, and make sure not to have it adjusted tighter than needed (sposedly over-traveling it can warp the spring)

You might have had a stretchy cable. some of this stuff is just poor quality :shock:

Wed Sep 10, 2014 6:27 pm

*sigh*

I have had more issues with the vw components than the Subaru swap as a whole. now think about that for a minute.

and, this is the first vw I have built that has not leaked 1 drip of oil. sad, sad, sad.....

the clutch seems to be adjusted ok. I have no idea why it would/could over extend the t/o bearing. no longer arms etc were used. I have about 1/8-3/16 of play at the arm now. clutch feels good and grabs mid to 3/4 of the way up, not just off the floor like it was