TheSamba.com :: View topic - Time for a reintroduction, pull my engine today.

Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:05 pm

Its been about 2 years since I posted, but I am really back now. I just removed the motor today out of our 78 Bus. I had never removed one before, it took at least three hours trying to figure it out. I also cut out some rusty panels and plan to get new ones welded in.
My big question, what should I do while I have the motor out? I'm thinking replace clutch, remove and clean gas tank?, etc. What would be wise to do? We bought this not really running but was able to drive it up and down the block a few times, should I do anything to the transmission, seals?
I plan to sandblast the whole compartment and spray a bed liner type material before put the engine back in.
Thanks,
Charlie

Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:17 pm

Hi Charlie,

I recently picked up a 68 bus and pulled the engine out about two months ago to replace the throw out bearing.

I have it out again right now to fix the rear main seal leak and pushrod tube leak I had chose to ignore......

If there's a leak fix it. Check the tank vent tubes too. Previous owners agreed that clamping any flexible tubing on the venting was unnecessary....

When in doubt, replace it.

Don't be me.

Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:42 pm

Interesting, looks good!

Can you post a picture or two of what your clutch and pressure plate look like? I was just wondering what condition they're in.

Awesome bus dude!

Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:45 pm

I would surely check the rear main seal. I pulled mine recently and it was leaking badly on the clutch components. It looks like you may have that same problem.

Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:54 pm

Something I dont see mentioned much here and I was surprised to find an issue was the hardware in the engine. If you arent going for a rebuilt and tearing the engine apart just check out the engine tin hardware and stuff like that, will make a potential rebuild later alot easier for sure!

Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:11 pm

The engine is going to get rebuilt. The previous owner said it would run till it got warm then it would seize. After it cooled off it would start back up and go. I never ran it long enough to seize, did not want to damage anymore then had already been done.

Fri Sep 12, 2014 12:03 am

Well, being an electrical guy...I would start with:
Replace the braided strap between the transaxle and the chassis, a solid ground will stave off all sorts of weirdness. You can get these at some auto electric shops, they aren't unique to VW.
It's really easy to pull the starter right now, would it like some love at the local auto electric shop? Maybe put in a hard-start relay?
And while you can sit up inside, are all the connections to your taillights in good shape?

CV joints and boots! If joints are in good shape, take them out, clean and repack them. Install some good new boots. Super-easy access right now!
Clean out and lube clutch and accelerator cables. Pull the cables out, flush with some solvent - I use an air jet to blow them out then but you'll want something to catch the grease-boogers at the other end so you aren't wiping into them for the next decade.
Get new boots for all your cables that use them, including heater cables.
You'll want to replace the throwout bearing. They're cheap, just change it.
Take a look at the "arms" that hold the throwout bearing. Are the welds where they connect to the clutch lever shaft in good shape? No cracking?
Maybe pull that shaft out right now, clean and lubricate it.

Fri Sep 12, 2014 7:06 am

Engines don't repeatedly seize when hot and then free up once they cool. Infrequently they may do this but just not very often. Without any additional info, I would guess that you have a tuneup problem or component failure, maybe a bad TSII sensor.

Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:21 am

Dampcamper, I bought a new electrical wiring kit. I will upgrade anything electrical I can. I don't really have a great electrical knowledge but I did rewire my 57 with a kit and added some relays and a kill switch. I take all the advice that I can.

Wildthings, I'll be the first to tell you I know nothing about these engines. When I bought it there was a receipt from a shop that made repairs and a tune up, I believe they even put on a new head. The shop bill I think was over $2000. I bought it from an employee at a Columbia, TN VW shop (can't remember the name) the shop does great work. It was the owner of the shop that told me about the seizing. This was a fuel injected and now has a carburetor. We are going to have the motor rebuilt.

Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:57 am

Remove the oil galley plugs and replace with threaded plugs.

Fri Sep 12, 2014 10:05 am

First thing I'd do is clean that bellhousing. That should be bone dry. (Mine wasn't either :lol: )

Good luck.

-dasdachshund

Fri Sep 12, 2014 11:49 am

First off it would be a mistake to paint your engine compartment with some kind of bed liner material. You want the engine bay to be bright, not dark. Typically I paint them like VW did and thats the same color as the bus. I don't think sand blasting is a good idea either or needed. I've done several engine bay refreshes and never felt the need to sand blast. For dirt a pressure washer works great. For oil or grease a chemical cleaner or HOT water steam cleaner is best. For rust, and you usually don't find that much in the engine bay, a wire wheel and rust treatment like naval jelly followed by a primer works good. Sand would get lost in the many nooks and crannies and eventually cause problems.

Fri Sep 12, 2014 11:05 pm

Replace the trans input shaft seal, TOB, pilot bearing. Also check the bronze sleeves for the throw out arm.

Since you got the engine out you may as well check the fuel tank lines and filler hose/s.

Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:31 am

Have the flywheel checked carefully for a groove where the oil seal goes. Check the battery tray for rust. Take out starter and get it cleaned up and painted. Good time to also take out rear lights and fix clean them up if there's anything wrong.

Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:17 am

Aeromech, The bedliner spray I plan to use is tintable and I was going to spray the same color as the paint which I think will be green. It has some noise deadening qualities which I think should help in the inside a bit. I used the same stuff on my 57 and it was a great match with the rest the car. Your work looks very nice and depending on how our engine compartment looks when ready I might just spray it.

Thanks for all the tips, I want to fix everything will I can reach it so I will check everything you guys listed and just replace anything in question.
Charlie

Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:19 am

Charlie,
Be sure to shoot some good pics when you do the finish. I'd like to see how it comes out.