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BGOODVW Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:15 pm

I have some money and want to upgade my engine 1641, 1776, 1835 ive been told the 1776 has heating issues. I want to drive my bus as much as i can. I have to travel on the hwy all the way to work 30 mile one way. I want a good driveable bus.

sambabus Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:26 pm

78 x 90.5 or 2007cc. Install a head temperature gauge and 2nd external oil cooler and filter. 40idf webers would be ideal. You would not believe the power and drivability. A 1776 doesn't even come close.

skills@eurocarsplus Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:53 pm

BGOODVW wrote: I want to drive my bus as much as i can. I have to travel on the hwy all the way to work 30 mile one way. I want a good driveable bus.


go subaru


skills@eurocarsplus wrote:




for the cost of any engine mentioned, you can have all the power you'll ever need, fuel injection etc....

depends on your budget. I have a 1904 in my 71 westy. goes 70+ cost me about 5k to build it myself.

I have a 2.5 Subaru in my 70 deluxe. bought a brand new s/b, rebuilt heads, cams and some other tricks cost me under 3k, have 200+ h/p and get an honest 25 mpg if I keep my foot out of it

if aircooled is your thing, a 1904 is a pretty ez build. pushes my heavy camper along just fine.

if you are going to pound the hell out of a big aircooled on the highway, I too would suggest a full flow system and a oil cooler.

Danwvw Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:55 pm

Looked at your other post and am wondering if this is about the 1969 Bus?
Yeah, Good question. The Single ports can make really good torque but if you convert it to a dual port better to go with a dual port engine case and dog-house fan shroud to handle the extra cooling needed. As I see it you have 2 choices. 1 Rebuild it as is or 2. Find a good 1971 or later engine to rebuild. It will need the 3 point rear mount holes in the case for the bus though (1971 bug engines have the Dog house fan shrouds but not the mount holes). Yeah the Dog-house is a huge improvement on cooling! I turned my 71 into an 1800 cc type 1 engine. Way more power with the dual carbs and the 74mmX88mm pistons and cylinders runs cool with stock cooling and full flow remote oil filter. If your going from scratch on the engine then look for a good rebuildable case in the ad's, One of these may work for the case! Check Cregs list too! http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1666468 But yeah it won't run hot if done right Even the 1915cc can run cool with the stock dog-house cooling. In the photo of the ad above one of the cases has the early non dog-house steel oil cooler. You want the one with the Aluminum off-set dog-house oil cooler.

levi20AE Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:42 pm

I have a 1776cc and it does alright with an external oil cooler but the real limiting factor is the CHTs. It takes a lot to push a loaded bus full of adventure gear. If I had known that this engine was going end up in a bus project (10 years later) I would not have used a 110 cam. If you go 90.5 or 92 mm pistons on a stock crank be sure and stick with an Engle 100 or less cam especially if you plan to swap your ring and pinion down the road. It gets old having to spin the motor up to 3400 RPM to hit the HP and torque plateau going up hills. That said though a 1776cc with a properly sized cam will do alright.

I built my motor on a B series case from a single port '70 beetle, but the only thing left from that motor was the case. Dual port heads and OE doghouse fan shroud are the only way to go. Also spend the $$ and have the rotating assembly balanced to increase the life span.

Glenn Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:44 pm

I put over 100,000 miles on a 1776 in a Beetle and never had any issues.

My current 2180 has no heat issues.

If you build it right, you should not have any problems with any of those.

babysnakes Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:47 pm

Not everyone is up to the Suby conversion as many are more comfortable with the norm. A 1600 will run cooler than a 1641. A 1835 is not even a choice for a heavy Baywindow. I know a guy with a 1776 in a Bay and he does alright but he doesn't push it either. How much money do you have? Go 2110, it's a big bang for the buck, but for the same money or less you can go Suby if you have the skills.

Brian Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:51 pm

2110, just because that's what I'm going with.

Go big, drive far away from home.

babysnakes Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:53 pm

Glenn wrote: I put over 100,000 miles on a 1776 in a Beetle and never had any issues.

Come on Glenn, consider the weight ratio between a bug and a bus not to mention the aerodynamics. And a fully loaded bus?

richparker Mon Sep 22, 2014 8:18 pm

Brian wrote: 2110, just because that's what I'm going with.

Go big, drive far away from home.

Like it!

Kwoggy Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:39 pm

If you run a larger engine say 2110, would you have to give up heat in the bus? I was under the impression that your head temp would run to high and shorten the life of the motor.

Brian Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:57 pm

Depends on the size of your heads. You should have ported heads with a 2110, so with 1-1/2" exhaust you have to get special heater boxes. It's just not as good at heating as the original heater boxes.

That's my setup, I bought from CB Performance P/N 3644. No idea if it fits, but I'm close to getting it installed.


richparker Tue Sep 23, 2014 2:44 pm

Kwoggy wrote: If you run a larger engine say 2110, would you have to give up heat in the bus? I was under the impression that your head temp would run to high and shorten the life of the motor.

I guess that would depend on your definition of life. Do you mean years or milage? I have around 17,000 miles on my 2109cc (76 stroke X 94 piston) in a year and a half with no head ( CB 044 big valve) problems. "They" say a big bore won't last as long as a 1600cc, miles wise. Let's say I get 5 yrs 50,000 miles out of my engine. I will have another one built because the big engine makes the bus a lot more enjoyable to drive. Someone else might not drive their bus like I do, daily, with lots of road trips and it may take them 10 years to hit 50k. Big engines do produce more heat but that can be delt with an external cooler

jtauxe Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:01 pm

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: BGOODVW wrote: I want to drive my bus as much as i can. I have to travel on the hwy all the way to work 30 mile one way. I want a good driveable bus.
go subaru
skills@eurocarsplus wrote:


for the cost of any engine mentioned, you can have all the power you'll ever need, fuel injection etc...
Skills, your bus and engine work is impressive, but frankly your video skills are awful! :(

skills@eurocarsplus Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:12 pm

^^^^yea, it was on the wrong setting and I didn't have it mounted to anything.

sorry if you puked when you got off the ride :lol:

Nepenthe88 Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:17 pm

jtauxe wrote: Skills, your bus and engine work is impressive, but frankly your video skills are awful! :(

I thought it was a pretty amazing feat of LSD flashback Trip-o-vision myself. Good job skills.
Oh.
And I second the subee swap. I did a 2.2L in mine, and have all the power I could need or ask for without the hassle of having to fiddle with carbs.

Randy in Maine Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:46 pm

In a 1968-1971 bus, you would be hard pressed to beat a well built 1776 with some small dual carbs and a SVDA distributor. A camshaft desgnied to take advantage of dual carbs would be a plus. Some head porting and a free flowing exhaust would take you anywhere you need to go and then some.

timvw7476 Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:52 pm

seeing as you are down Texas way, I like something close to or over 2000cc
Why is there no voting forum?

BGOODVW Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:19 pm

I have decided on a 1776 guys thanks this shit is going to happen

richparker Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:19 pm

That will be a great engine to kick around Texas with. There is an old school builder that advertises on this site in Texas that only builds 1600, 1641 and 1776 only. If I come across his ad I'll post the link.



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