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  View original topic: dual carb linkage keeps coming off on the left carb??
TedT Thu Sep 25, 2014 3:40 am

:( Just bought a 74 Westfalia, great condition ,not much rust, some problem with the lights (plate light/unhooked-passenger door light missing, radio?) biggest problem, the last owner did carb rebild kits and I think he screwed the linkage, if I feather the gas too much the left side linkage comes off,??!!!! HELP please.
I am new and have no knowledge of repairs of this type.
than you in advance,
Ted

aeromech Thu Sep 25, 2014 7:22 am

Hey Ted,
How about a picture of the linkage?

Tcash Thu Sep 25, 2014 11:05 am

Tcash wrote: Pictures would be cool.
How to post photos/How to post a photo in the Forums

Tcash wrote: Here is a little information. Good Luck

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SGKent Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:34 pm

most linkages are a ball and socket. They do wear out and get loose. You might post a photo as Aeromech suggests then if it is stock or made of stock parts, replace the worn out pieces. It is also possible it was installed wrong or is at an awkward angle etc. A photo would help.

sneakyjack Thu Sep 25, 2014 1:09 pm

Yes the ball and linkage are usually the problem - Mine kept coming off - 74 bay - 40duals from Kaddie -
The clips are crucial in keeping everything in just the right place. and like others said Pics will help us see the issues. - use some light and shoot form above too.

mahalo

rustbus Thu Sep 25, 2014 2:27 pm

assuming stock carbs...:

yes there are little wire clips in each socket.

however, as the linkage is moved with the gas pedal, the alignment changes a bit too. so if you have the wire clips in place and this still happens, its possible the linkages were tightened back up after balancing, but the "mouth" of the socket is not aligned well with the ball and when you crank it up it binds and pops off. you should be able to grab the links and twist them side to side and bit, if the one that pops off doesnt twist chances are its binding.

also, take a good look at all the links and make sure everything is straight and true - all this linkage is prone to some bending

wonder if im describing this well?

TedT Mon Sep 29, 2014 2:09 am

Thank you all for the feedback, I did a quick fix, cut a piece of gas hose and split it and wrapped it on the right side, FIX!!! For now.

I have another ??? how do I post a pick on my Westy on here?

thank you all again------- Ted

aeromech Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:03 am

Just click the link tcash sent

Jim Bear Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:18 am

sneakyjack wrote:
The clips are crucial in keeping everything in just the right place.

Does anyone have pics of the clips or what I should be seeing with regards to the ball and socket joint with the clips? I was removing my air filter the other day and the linkage cross beam was closer to the filter unit than it usually is. When I forced the cross beam just a little to get the cover off the filter unit the joint at the right carb popped free. I thought I heard metal falling, but found nothing. The spring is still in there. The whole works seem looser than usual and more prone to pop-out. Also, I am having issues with power and acceleration and am thinking this could be a contributing factor.

Amskeptic Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:50 am

Jim Bear wrote: sneakyjack wrote:
The clips are crucial in keeping everything in just the right place.

Does anyone have pics of the clips or what I should be seeing with regards to the ball and socket joint with the clips? I was removing my air filter the other day and the linkage cross beam was closer to the filter unit than it usually is. When I forced the cross beam just a little to get the cover off the filter unit the joint at the right carb popped free. I thought I heard metal falling, but found nothing. The spring is still in there. The whole works seem looser than usual and more prone to pop-out. Also, I am having issues with power and acceleration and am thinking this could be a contributing factor.

There are no spring clips for the cross bar balls/sockets on post '72 buses. There are little c-clip-looking springs inside the little ball sockets of the throttle links.


So you caught the crossbar spring, yes, but there is also a big plastic ball socket that goes into the right side of the cross bar.
Occasionally the brackets need to be moved (loosen the two 10mm bolts and see if there is some available slop to move towards the center of the engine, then tighten carefully > those bolts screw into soft carburetor pot metal) or judiciously bend bracket ball a little bit towards the center of the engine, carefully! Check for binding when done. The factory linkage is superior to any I have seen.

Tcash Mon Dec 08, 2014 2:19 pm

There is a post, that the person replaced the worn out ball sockets with these.
http://www.grainger.com/product/BANSBACH-EASYLIFT-...?$smthumb$

Vanapplebomb Fri Dec 26, 2014 9:39 am

Jim Bear wrote: sneakyjack wrote:
The clips are crucial in keeping everything in just the right place.

Does anyone have pics of the clips or what I should be seeing with regards to the ball and socket joint with the clips?

The ball and socket joints on the linkage arms? There are two clips actually. There is an internal split ring that The ball stud expands and snaps past it when you clip the ball socket onto the ball stud. If you loose this little ring the joint will be very sloppy and will simply fall apart if you do not have the safety retaining clip on the ball socket. There are two very small drillings parallel to the linkage arm offset in the ball sockets A clip slips though these holes and snaps around the outside of the ball socket where it meets the linkage arm. Though not required, this clip is an added safety feature. It makes it darn near impossible to separate the ball stud from the socket.


These are the replacement joints I got from Grainger. They have an 8mm ball stud and are nearly identical to the factory ones. The ball studs are threaded however, unlike the rivet into place style that VW used. The ball sockets have a standard right hand M5x0.8mm internal thread. This wasn't a problem for me since I have the '68-72 T4 dual carb linkage with fixed linkage arms and the synchronizer built into the cross bar. For your '74 you may have to drill out the M5 threads and tap for larger left handed threads on a couple sockets and make new adjustable linkage arms to match. Extra work, yes. Doable, absolutely.






Replacing the ball studs is as easy as grinding off the mushroomed over rivet and yanking the ball studs out. It takes a bit of force because of how the reviewing process works. With the old ones out you can stick the new ones in their place and tack weld them down. I do not recommend using the nut alone to hold them. You can use the nut to hold the ball stud in place while you put a small tack on the face. Then remove the nut and weld up the back side. You may have to take a grinder to the back side if you have clearance issues between the threaded end of the ball stud and any stationary linkage parts. I know I did on the '68-72 style linkage, but you might not have that with yours because the crossbar is located differently.








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