TheSamba.com :: View topic - 1.9L to 2.1L conversion: mild wiring issues: help?

Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:15 am

Aloha all!

I just mounted this 2.1L engine I rebuilt in a 1984 1.9L Westfalia (that had a 2.1L block hacked with a 1.9L injection system, all crazily done)
It came from a 1988? Syncro I converted to Subaru, so I have the (rebuilt/new) wiring harness that came with it.

Questions: (because ignition coil doesn't spark all the time, so I cannot start the engine)

#1: in what approximative position can I put the distributor in so I can start the engine?
#2: on the coil, connector #1 are 2 green wires:one from the ECU harness, the other goes nowhere because I cut it off the Syncro: I'm pretty sure its only purpose if for driving the tachometer: correct? I can leave it off going nowhere for now?

#3: on the coil, connector #15 are 2 black wires, one gets 12Vdc, the other one comes from the ECU harness and is dead, unless connected to the coil where it becomes powered thanks to the other wire on the "bus bar": correct ?
#4: I have a green and white wire going nowhere from the 2.1L ECU engine harness. I checked on my friend's van, same thing. What is it for?

#5: I have 2 wires for the oil pressure: one for each of the senders at the engine. I only have one wire to connect to at the van's electrical box. Is this normal or am I missing a wire somewhere?

My connector from Syncro :yellow (cut from the Syncro) goes to nowhere in the electrical box
Green goes to black/blue in the electrical box. I don't know why there was a different color on the syncro, but whatever.

Green is black and blue on my friend's van

#6: I can't get the coil to spark: tried 2 ECU's, 2 different wires (from coil to distributor), 2 different coils (1.9L and 2.1L): I got spark only once when I moved the ground wire next to the ECU's connector. Then it was too late and dark so I had to give up.
Is this ground wire (by the ECU) critical in having a spark coming out of the coil, or was it a coincidence? Suckah almost started, then nothing…

Thank you for any help!

Alika

Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:37 am

#1: in what approximative position can I put the distributor in so I can start the engine?

Make sure that #1 cylinder is at TDC, take the cap off the distributer, line up the center line of the rotor, with the little line that is machined into the distributor body. That should allow you to get it started, then set the timing as required.

Jon H.

Mon Sep 29, 2014 4:50 am

Make sure the rotor points to the #1 plug wire, if its off rotate dizzy so it aligns.If plug wires have been removed from cap make sure they r in correct firing order/to cyls.

Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:52 am

TDC with both intake and exhaust valves closed. You get TDC twice on each complete cylinder cycle.

Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:17 am

If the harness is bad, let me know and I can send you a good tested late model one.

Dylan

Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:28 pm

Thank you guys!!

Spark plug wires not crossed, I will align the distributor as recommended after work :)

Wiring harness is almost new, was in a working van. Thanks Dylan, I'm sure it's something stupid....like the ground wire next to the ECU connector.

Aloha!

Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:34 pm

Okay, cool, sorry didn't see that in the writeup.
You will figure it out :wink:

Let me know if I can assist.

BTW, the engine looks killer :!:

D

Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:36 pm

That coil doesn't look like one I have ever used on a Vanagon.
I may be off, but double check that it is the right one for the 2.1 and not from another VW, it does make a difference IIRC.

If it ran with it previously, disregard.

Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:26 pm

I believe #4 is the signal wire for the A/C to the ECU for Idol not used on vans without A/C. #5 the 88 Syncro had the dual oil pressure system with the circuit board behind the speedometer and the 85 likely does not if the old engine only had one oil pressure sender and one wire. sorry not near my van to check the others. I agree with Dylan that looks like a bug coil which is different than a Vanagon and I can't remember exactly why.

Tue Sep 30, 2014 5:54 am

ALIKA T3 wrote: Aloha all!

I just mounted this 2.1L engine I rebuilt in a 1984 1.9L Westfalia (that had a 2.1L block hacked with a 1.9L injection system, all crazily done)
It came from a 1988? Syncro I converted to Subaru, so I have the (rebuilt/new) wiring harness that came with it.
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#5: I have 2 wires for the oil pressure: one for each of the senders at the engine. I only have one wire to connect to at the van's electrical box. Is this normal or am I missing a wire somewhere?

#6: I can't get the coil to spark: tried 2 ECU's, 2 different wires (from coil to distributor), 2 different coils (1.9L and 2.1L): I got spark only once when I moved the ground wire next to the ECU's connector. Then it was too late and dark so I had to give up.
Is this ground wire (by the ECU) critical in having a spark coming out of the coil, or was it a coincidence? Suckah almost started, then nothing…

Thank you for any help!

Alika

The 2.1 has two Oil Senders. 1 for Low and 1 for Hi Oil Pressures.
The Problem is that the earlier Van's like your 84 only had on wire going to the oil light in the Dash Cluster.
86 and laters had a Dynamic Oil system that utilized the 2 different oil senders wires going to the Dash Cluster.

Since you only have the one wire that warns the driver of low oil pressure guess you can only connect the low oil pressure sender.
Or perhaps you could connect both oil senders to the same wire to the Dash maybe it could act a warning indicator for both senders. Not sure if it would work but in theory it sounds doable?

Or maybe install a new physical Oil Gauge in the Dash to show actual oil Pressure, as a Visual Gauge is always nice to see what's going on with the engine oil pressure verse a red light that we don't always know understand why it's flashing at us. :?

BTW how did you manage to use the later 2.1 Distributor on a Digijet ECU and wiring Harness?
.

Tue Sep 30, 2014 6:11 am

I agree, an oil pressure gauge is a smart idea.

Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:22 am

Leave the yellow wire unhooked, it is for the high pressure switch. Your van is only wired for the blue/black connection for low pressure switch. You can't hook both switches to the same light. Well you could but it wouldn't work.

Mark

Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:47 am

Hello all!

thank you again for your valuable infos here 8)

I do have an oil pressure sender on the block between the pushrods for a gauge, I'm not sure if I will install one, customers don't read gauges anyway :roll:

Good to know for the extra wire, I'll leave it alone.

Yesterday I connected the ground wire by the ECU connector with a vise grip onto the braided ground strap, computer sitting on top of engine for tests.

I got sparks !!! :P With either ECU or coils.

BTW, the coil I'm using is this one

This one was on the 1.9L injection system, but it must be good for both I believe:

I couldn't find the internal machined line in the distributor, so I aligned it perfectly square North/South with the edge of the block, and the engine started first shot.
Here is a pic before I align it.

I had to shut it off after 2 seconds, I have no coolant yet and muffler isn't connected (LOUD!!!) , I was at my friend Airsweden's place and it was dark.

Today after work is muffler work to try to make that old Tencent's exhaust work from the Syncro to 2WD. Almost there :wink:

Bye!

Wed Oct 14, 2020 11:26 am

Hi All -

I have an '84 Westy and just converted the 1.9l to a rebuilt 2.1l. I switched the throttle body because the old one was worn out and leaking. I have not replaced the ECU or wiring harness.

The van starts, but idles wildly between 900 and 1800 rpm, and the timing mark bounces around a lot. The dizzy is a Hall Sender unit, no points, but it's also sloppy and I've ordered a fully electronic unit. The harness is in rough shape, but the plugs are new and plug wires relatively new and in good shape.

If I'm reading this thread properly, a new wiring harness for either a Digijet or Digifant system will work fine, just the the early harness won't give me the oil pressure gauge, but the old ECU needs to be replaced with the 2.1l version.

Thoughts?

TIA -
Chris

Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:05 pm

There is no factory oil pressure gauge with the 1.9 or 2.1. The 1.9 distributor has a vacuum advance and retard diaphragm and centrifugal advance mechanism. The 2.1 has a fixed distributor and the ECU controls timing advance.

I'd say you need to have all of one system digijet or all of the other digifant. Mixing parts will give you odd results. I'm sure some parts can be interchanged though. Just not sure which ones.

Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:10 pm

Thanks for the clarification, Mark. Even though the electronic dizzy is said to work with either system, it sounds like I need an ECU that will control the 2.1l, fixed dizzy system and harness to match the ECU. Agreed?

Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:13 pm

Chris Beebe wrote: Thanks for the clarification, Mark. Even though the electronic dizzy is said to work with either system, it sounds like I need an ECU that will control the 2.1l, fixed dizzy system and harness to match the ECU. Agreed?

I would say so.

Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:46 pm

Hello!

What distributor did you swap in?
Sounds like you have messed up vacuum or something...

Wed Oct 14, 2020 5:19 pm

If the thrust washers on the dizzy shaft are missing the distributor drive may jump up and down excessively which will cause the timing to jump around.

Wed Oct 14, 2020 5:29 pm

I have a https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22963832-009-el.html on order.

When I replaced the throttle body with a https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical/24718/gowesty-throttle-valve-housing?v= , using an adapter kit per GoWesty (https://www.gowesty.com/product/fuel-injection/24732/bosch-sealed-2-pin-female-connector-kit?v=) I had to reroute the vacuum line per their instructions. Please see attached photo. I believe I got this right, but maybe not?