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Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:31 pm

Well, it's definitely time. My original factory heater boxes have finally rusted through where the pipes weld to the flanges and cannot be repaired. Also, my exhaust crossover pipe has rusted through as well after 11 years.

I have some decisions to make. Apparently they have finally started making 1979 only heater boxes. However, I cannot find the crossover pipe that the muffler attaches to anymore. In addition, as of my last compression test a couple years ago with valves all zeroed out my readings were as follows:
1-110
2-123
3-105
4-115
So compression is falling, esp. on #3. If I am going to do the exhaust I am dropping the engine to do it, and I think since the engine itself sans heads is in proper shape (doesn't burn oil, oil pressure good, proper crankshaft end play) I figure some rebuilt heads would do a world of good.

So I'd like to find the best and most cost effective method. I've heard 2.0 heads up to 78 will fit a '79, and then you can install the cheaper -78 heater boxes and exhaust and be just fine. Or if I can find a '79 crossover pipe I can use rebuilt '79 heads and buy the more expensive '79 only heater boxes. Anything I am missing here? Also, anyone have experience with the rebuilt heads you'd find on say Bus Depot? They say they have improved valve seats designed better than originals. Looking forward to any advice or experiences.

Been a long time since I've kicked around here! My old Victorian house took over my time and the bus has become the Home Depot Runner!

Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:05 pm

Hey there Eric!

Are you a 199 Federal set up?

If so, just find some decent 79 heaterboxes and use this from BD...

http://www.busdepot.com/071251053ek

If you are a 1979 CA set up, send me a PM.

Mon Sep 29, 2014 2:46 pm

If you don't have to smog, then you have a lot of options.

Ive had a few 79's now, but fortunately didn't need both heater boxes at once where I ever considered switching to oval port heads.

When I needed a square port heater box, I went to Chris at Busted Bus. He had various options depending on what level of quality I was after. On one of the 2 busses I picked up a practically NOS drivers side heater box, but for the other I grabbed one that just needed a little hole patched up (wasn't a hole from rust) for a little less coin.

I know both will outlast brand new aftermarket heaterboxes, and cost less.

The exhaust that Randy posted is likely the best unit for this setup, again - if you don't need to smog.

Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:49 pm

'79 heater boxes are a bit hard to find, but when you do the price is often right as few need or want them. Picked up a nice clean set last winter at a show for all of $10.

Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:05 pm

Oval port heat exchangers (pre '79) can easily be modified to fit a square port head by just cutting the 'extension' off the flange and filing them flat.

Then you can use the '72-'74 muffler.

Tue Sep 30, 2014 2:58 pm

Ahh I like the cut EM off and file EM flat approach. I've got some old square ports I didn't know what to do with!

Tue Sep 30, 2014 2:59 pm

Oops I'm a dummy that was vice versa lol

Tue Sep 30, 2014 3:44 pm

Soon after getting the 79 I ended up putting another engine in; a 78 that had a new exhaust. When I needed to do the heads I shopped long and hard on redoing the 79 Sq port heads as the 79 heater boxes were in poor shape and the exhaust not much better. The whole package cost put me toward a set of oval port heads and keeping the Oval port heater boxes and muffler.
I went with the Oval port items as easier to get and since it is a sunroof transporter with a west interior originality was less important.

Tue Sep 30, 2014 6:58 pm

Well then,

First, Hey Randy! I was just up in Portland with the bus last week! Fine little city, that. Yup, it's a federal engine.

So my main concern is that in NJ all our state inspection does anymore is test emissions. 1979 came with a catalytic converter, which I have. I'm worried if I switch to that other exhaust you linked that I may no longer pass without the catalyst. Does seem like a good option, although I just put a brand new muffler and tailpipe on last fall. I guess I could always sell it here.

I have no issue looking for used heat exchangers...rather have OE than Dansk anyway as long as they are pretty clean. But the big question that no one has yet touched on are the heads. Any experience with rebuilt heads? and 2.0 heads up to '78 will be a direct fit to a '79, right? No engine tin differences?

Thanks for the replies so far!

Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:39 pm

I cannot speak on the heads, but if you go oval port there could be engine tin differences. If you go with the 78 style heat exchangers you would have to use the tin from I think a 75-78 bus. If you go with 74 style heat exchangers you should be able to use the tin you have now. I have the same year westy as you and swapped over to another motor with oval ports. My opinion now would be to keep it original. Swapping stuff around I found myself chasing various parts around when if I kept it original I already had all the parts... Plus now when I look at my old square port heads and heat exchangers I realize how much more surface area is on the exhaust manifold area that mates to the head. Its got to make them easier to seal at the head, and less manifold to head leaks I would think.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:53 am

I spent last spring redoing the original 79 engine, using oval port heads and the 78 exhaust with the cat. The tins used were a combination of best condition pieces of what I had. The one thing I noticed different was the alternator bracket end of the 79 was not a straight bolt on to the exhaust; I had to fab an extra bit to make it work.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:04 am

I have used the 72-74 style setup without the factory crossover pipe. If you get one of those bugpack/empi/thunderbird extractors you can put a CAT in it with a short bodied muffler and still fit it under the rear bumper:

This one was hooked up to the O2 sensor as well, but if yours is federal you won't have to worry about it. You can use the CAT you have now. The extractor is less than $100 by itself (or much less if you can get it used.)

I cobbled this one together with spare bits around the garage and $40 to my local welder.