TheSamba.com :: View topic - Remove flywheel and/or crankshaft pulley?

Sun Oct 05, 2014 6:38 pm

sorry, another stupid question, but google didnt help me.
Im in the process of splitting my case to replace some bearings. Whats got me stuck is the flywheel. It will NOT come off. I have tried taking a piece of metal and drilling holes and bolting it on where the clutch goes so the thing cant turn and using my 36mm socket with an 8 foot pipe over the wrench. All that resulted in was bending the pipe. How tight are these things supposed to be? Am i missing something? Should i take off the crankshaft pulley first?
This is my first time trying this, so any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Sun Oct 05, 2014 7:23 pm

It could be on to 500 ft lbs or more. Are you using a 3/4 inch drive?

Next step is to take it to a garage with a large impact wrench, like 3/4 or 1" drive that delivers 1000 plus ft lbs of torque.

Sun Oct 05, 2014 7:54 pm

I am using ½" drive.
Is it supposed to be that tight? What should I put it back on at?
Thanks

Sun Oct 05, 2014 9:15 pm

kyleshepherd622 wrote: sorry, another stupid question, but google didnt help me.
Im in the process of splitting my case to replace some bearings. Whats got me stuck is the flywheel. It will NOT come off. I have tried taking a piece of metal and drilling holes and bolting it on where the clutch goes so the thing cant turn and using my 36mm socket with an 8 foot pipe over the wrench. All that resulted in was bending the pipe. How tight are these things supposed to be? Am i missing something? Should i take off the crankshaft pulley first?
This is my first time trying this, so any help would be appreciated, thanks.

The torque spec is 250 ft. lbs. My 300 ft. lb. impact wrench takes it off easily with 120 p.s.i.

Mon Oct 06, 2014 1:34 pm

Kyle, I had the same problem. What I did was I went to Sears and got a 3/4 inch breaker bar, and a 1 and 7/16 socket (with a 3/4 inch drive). That did the trick. I also used a buddy bar to hole the flywheel from turning.

Before doing this, I broke a 1/2 inch breaker bar and two socket extensions.

You could also get a TorqueMeister (Cipi1 sells them cheap), and this little gem always works extremely well; and it's good for taking off the rear axel nut too. You only need a 3/8 inch drive rachet to operate it, and to tighten the gland nut or axel nut to spec., you just set the 3/8 drive torque wrench to 28 pounds to get 252 lbs. on the nut.

Tim

Mon Oct 06, 2014 1:44 pm

Tim is right. It can be VERY tight. A big breaker bar and a extention and you are good. Make sure you get it all lashed down before hopping on it. Remenber, think safety on this much pressure.

PS...it is a standard turn (righty tighty, lefty loosey)

Tim

Mon Oct 06, 2014 2:10 pm

Purchase a torque meister.

There not cheap but well worth the purchase price. It make taking the flywheel off very easy with minimum effort.

It also works to remove the rear axle nut just as easy!

Mon Oct 06, 2014 2:29 pm

Okay, thanks guys
Looks like I'm gonna be looking at a torquemiester

Mon Oct 06, 2014 3:00 pm

There are also torque multipliers that work like the torque meister, but have universal application. I bought one for around $150.00 and it delivers up to 1500 ft-lbs at a 1:10 multiplication of torque. The beauty of it is that it can be used on any automotive or industrial fastener, not just VW flywheels and axle nuts.

Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:03 pm

Ditto on the Torque Master. Bought on of these earlier this year and its already paid for itself in lack of frustration :) Used it on both the rear axles and the fly-wheel. Works like a charm.

Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:04 pm

Ditto on the Torque Master. Bought on of these earlier this year and its already paid for itself in lack of frustration :) Used it on both the rear axles and the fly-wheel. Works like a charm.