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Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:10 pm

I'm rebuilding my 1962 1200 beetle engine and I have around .010 crank shaft end play I have searched all over online for the shims too adjust the end play does anybody know if you can use 1600 shims on my 1200 And if you can't do you know where to get the correct shims

Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:22 pm

They are different. 1600 shims don't fit a 40hp, the inside diameter is slightly smaller. I'll take a look to see if I have some extras.

Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:21 pm

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113105289

Fri Oct 24, 2014 6:52 pm

I managed to get 3 36 mm shims but I still have .009 end play I know the spec is .003 to .006 but will .009 cause a lot of damage to the engine, could I try using 4 smaller shims or would that be bad I really don't want to tear down the engine completely to check the bearings

Sat Oct 25, 2014 1:24 am

I know when I did mine last I just made it near the max allowed. That was after hunting down the right shims.I would do it the correct way if I were you. If you go to the classifieds on this site and type in "flywheel shims" you will see a wide selection to inquiry to.I would have done it and left you the link but have never figured how to copy & paste on the cell phone.

Sat Oct 25, 2014 3:24 am

I went through this recently with my '65 1200. Be sure you have the paper or metal gasket on the end of the crank, and be sure sure you have at least 200 ft lbs of torque applied to the flywheel.

I used the endplay measure tool, a brand new set of feeler gauges, 3 .36mm shims (just bought from Wolfsburg West). I really torqued the flywheel, and I also made absolutely sure the rear engine pulley was tight. I levered 2 large screwdrivers behind the flywheel, pulled towards me, set the endplay tool to where it was just touching the flywheel, then I went around to the pulley end of the engine and carefully levered the screwdrivers behind the pulley and pulled that towards me.

After all that, when I checked the endplay, it was exactly .004 inches which is within specs.

Good luck,
Ted

Sat Oct 25, 2014 5:54 am

To check to see if the bearing is moving in the case add enough shims so the flywheel is snug up against the bearing then try moving the crank back and forth... just don't try to rotate the engine.

I've had to use thicker shims while adding a second metal gasket between the flywheel and crank to get between .003 to .006".

A better way to move the crank back and forth to check the end play is to remove the distributor cap and just turn the rotor back and forth.