TheSamba.com :: View topic - Is there a better or worse time to sell VWS?

Fri Oct 31, 2014 3:30 am

gotta tell ya - getting a little frustrated - I picked up a few cars as package deals that I am trying to move and I honestly feel the prices are reasonable, but not getting many LEGIT offers. Running on Ebay, Craigslist and another local shopper site.

By the way, when did idiots screwing with you on Ebay start? I get these assholes with 0 or bad feedback bidding and there is no way they are going to buy. I just figured out how to block and started rejecting low feedback bidders, but had not had to do that crap a few years ago. WTF is up with that?

So the question is this - I am in the Northeast - should I cram all of these in a storage garage until spring or what? What realluy bites is that I will need the cash late winter to buy a 3 bay REAL garage. (WITH A LIFT!!!!!!! 8) )

Fri Oct 31, 2014 3:43 am

I know for area's with actual seasons there are times that are better than others when selling certain vehicles. For example, if you're selling a motorcycle, wait for spring / summer and you will get much more for it than in fall / winter and verse visa if you're selling a 4wheel drive (I'm sure it's the same in the North East).

Might be people just are not in the buying mood in the NE this time of year. Could be a shipping issue for those browsing on eBay too... Hard to really tell.

Fri Oct 31, 2014 5:27 am

It's the time of year. I've been on full lockdown for about a month now.

I need to figure out where to put all the junk I've dragged home since Spring, and until my wife has room to park her car in the garage for the winter, there's no way I'm buying anything, I don't care how fantastic a deal it is.

Fri Oct 31, 2014 6:12 am

It is a little slower this time of year for sure, but if you're considering locking them in storage, keep the ads running anyway, A couple of years ago I had guy come on new year's eve all the way from Pittsburg to buy a car I had listed since September, I guess what I'm trying to say is, you have nothing to lose by keeping the ads running.

Fri Oct 31, 2014 8:12 am

People are spending for Christmas now, Or anticipating heating costs if they are budget minded. In the Northeast some may be shopping for a winter project. Spring is when cabin fever loosens wallets. People be lookin' for summer cruisers. VW people in MA are notoriously cheap too!

Bill

Fri Oct 31, 2014 8:18 am

Better weather brings out more potential lookers that's for sure. You can run your ads year round but I would not count of selling anything before the first 75 degree day and everyone is wearing shorts.

When I shop for acvw parts on ebay, 'no returns' means the seller is not motivated to actually look good at the parts or they are junk and will be going back after I take a good look at them if I can return them.

In the craigs list ads in my local , the fair priced stuff eventually moves. There are ads for parts that are in worse condition than the ones I want to replace them with for twice as much as I would pay for a decent one. :shock:

Maybe your prices are fair and it's just the market you are selling in.

Fri Oct 31, 2014 8:47 am

I wouldn't be rejecting low feedback bids. There must be thousands buying there first car etc on eBay. Your method hasn't worked, so you better change your method or lower your prices more. I have towed cars home in the snow, so I don't think winter would matter that much.

Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:40 am

Mike Fisher wrote: I wouldn't be rejecting low feedback bids. There must be thousands buying there first car etc on eBay. Your method hasn't worked, so you better change your method or lower your prices more. I have towed cars home in the snow, so I don't think winter would matter that much.

Seriously....I agree. When it comes to cars, specialty items and large machines.....the vast majority of qualified buyers WILL be "0" or low feedback people.

Far too many people trying to sell something have this strange idea that the whole world buys on E-bay on a regular basis. Actually it does not.

I try to avoid E-bay for Automotive and technical purchases because the vast majority of people selling have no idea what they are selling, what condition it is really in, have poor photographs and do not answer their inquiry e-mails.

Too many people are like this: "I have no idea what its really worth or how it works....I just picked it up at a yard/garage/estate sale cause it looked valuable" (see photo taken in living room with phone) :roll:

Car buyers may only be on ebay and have low or no numbers....because they have to go there...because far too many people selling cars and parts just on ebay and craigslist.
So....as Mike noted.....the vast majority of first time car buyers and those just looking for a project will have low or no feedback.

Also....why would low or no feedback have ANY relation as to whether they have money?
Think about the first time YOU went on ebay. You had "0" feedback. Was your intent to just play auction and not pay?
Why would you automatically assume others are this way.

Lastly...what are you selling...and what are the prices......and what do your pictures look like?

If you have crappy or poorly angled pictures.....I almost universally assume you are hiding problems. I then ask for a better picture or different angle from you.

If I get no response...I add you to my loser list. Ray

EDIT: I pulled up what you have at least on the Samba. I have no idea if thats all of it.

I really like your descriptions. You do that well.
A suggestion....you have a reasonable amount of pictures from decent angles....but they show very little detail except whats in the foreground.......

This goes for most people (I did quite a bit of studio photography for a living at one time)....STOP USING THE FLASH ON YOUR CAMERA IN DAYLIGHT.

It burns all the edges, distorts color and drops out interiors and background. Just change your exposure and open up a stop.....even a smart phone will do this. Your pictures will be much more detailed and focus far deeper into the picture especially with interior, engine compartment and trunk shots.

The polka dot ugly bug seems reasonable....but does have a lot of work to do....but not much cost.

The 64 however...is overpriced. Its a rust bucket. Maybe $1000 max....more if it actually drove but was still a rust bucket.
Just my opinion. Ray

Fri Oct 31, 2014 12:03 pm

For your situation, location, time of year & the stuff your selling, all matter.

Your 'In the middle of know where Pa." Which makes it a long drive for lot's of East coasters ( Same deal for me in Vt.)
After Sept./Mid Oct. people are thinking - storage- keeping my "good Vws"dry, so going out & getting another is not on everyones mind, if your lucky, you find that needle in the hay stack Father/son project buyer.
And your selling 2- 70's Bugs, and a '64, the '70's Bugs are not that hard to find, and most East Coasters are scared of rust--if they can't do the work on thier own.
I agree, keep running the ads, a buyer will come along, but I have way better luck in April-May-June-July than any other time, here in Vermont.

Fri Oct 31, 2014 1:57 pm

I think that February to June is a great time. I know it's a big span, but in that time people are getting tax refunds. And the weather starts to get a bit nicer so people start looking forward to cruising in a new toy.

Fri Oct 31, 2014 2:08 pm

The ask prices on Samba are frankly ridiculous in about 75% of cases.

If you are guiding by these for your reserve, then you won't sell.

Moreover, if you put a reserve on it, I won't bid.

If you want more than 5000 for a car, take a couple of hours to get good pictures, and leave your phone in the kitchen

Sat Nov 01, 2014 12:50 am

Abscate wrote: The ask prices on Samba are frankly ridiculous in about 75% of cases.

For cars:
75% might be high but I would add something like if the car has been for sale for 2 months or more that is probably true.
Or it's something that takes a specific buyer.

A LOT of cars sell within a week, some the same day.
I've sold a couple cars myself within 2-3 days.
I bought my '63 Bus off here within 24 hours of the post.

Sat Nov 01, 2014 2:33 am

I'm a NooB here Everett, sorry if I sounded a bit harsh. Ive bought and brokered cars for half of the asks here though.

The site is fantastic, and since you saved me about 400 bucks on a EV repair I premium upped in my first month

:lol:

Sat Nov 01, 2014 4:02 am

Thanks for the ideas - here's my big problem with the low feedback bidders on E-bay - I had this guy bidding when I first listed the 64 with a buy it now or best offer - he immediately ran up to like $1250 - I messaged and asked for a phone number to discuss the car and such - repeatedly- and never got a a response. I had the same guy bid this time along with one other guy. Messaged both early on - NO response. Thats when I blocked the low/no feedback bidders. The one won the auction. Have not head anything yet. Been 12 hours.

And you may be right about the 63 (or 64) - Had no clue what to shoot for - I started way high and think I will drop dramatically.

And something my wife and a buddy have suggested was get the ugly 70 roadworthy. I have been hesitant to do that because I am too much of a perfectionist. BUT if I can keep myself restrained - I want an opinion.

I could just do the brakes, muffler, quick floor patch. BUT to get it to pass state inspection, I need to put on a set of tires and will probably have to swap the windshield since mine is fogged around the edges. And then do I need ball joints or tie rods? Thats what sucks. I can put a quick $500 into it and a lot of time.....But the car will still be ugly as hell.....So - would it be worth $2500 at that point.....I dunno.

Sat Nov 01, 2014 5:56 am

ya gotta learn to stay away from the package deals or put up with the BS of selling stuff to the general public. And learn to walk away, you can't save them all :wink:
When you are in the middle of now where (see my location) you have a limited audience. And in rust country (grew up in Michigan), no one in their right mind is going to export something out of the rust belt.
In the perfect world we would all have more than 0 feedback but we all start there.

Sat Nov 01, 2014 1:01 pm

andk5591 wrote: Thanks for the ideas - here's my big problem with the low feedback bidders on E-bay - I had this guy bidding when I first listed the 64 with a buy it now or best offer - he immediately ran up to like $1250 - I messaged and asked for a phone number to discuss the car and such - repeatedly- and never got a a response. I had the same guy bid this time along with one other guy. Messaged both early on - NO response. Thats when I blocked the low/no feedback bidders. The one won the auction. Have not head anything yet. Been 12 hours.

And you may be right about the 63 (or 64) - Had no clue what to shoot for - I started way high and think I will drop dramatically.

And something my wife and a buddy have suggested was get the ugly 70 roadworthy. I have been hesitant to do that because I am too much of a perfectionist. BUT if I can keep myself restrained - I want an opinion.

I could just do the brakes, muffler, quick floor patch. BUT to get it to pass state inspection, I need to put on a set of tires and will probably have to swap the windshield since mine is fogged around the edges. And then do I need ball joints or tie rods? Thats what sucks. I can put a quick $500 into it and a lot of time.....But the car will still be ugly as hell.....So - would it be worth $2500 at that point.....I dunno.

Yes...you have some points. But also bear in mind...because this happens to me as well too.....just because you messaged and e-mailed these guys (over what period of time I would ask).....does not mean that theyy were in a position too get back to you.
You could be spot on.....they may have just been trolling....or they could be like me.....if its a busy week and work intervenes....i may be out of communication during the day and not get done until well into the night....for days.

But if they had any manners...they should get back to you by the weekend or at least tell you they changed their mind by answering one e-mail .

I would get the 70 rolling. I dont know of any DOT short of the TUV in Germany and the MOT in England that will worry about the fogged windshield. Cracks yes...fog around edges no.

Brakes....yes it could take a day...but rebuild kits for all of it unless its horribly rusty...calipers...wheel cylinders and master cylinders...couldnt run more than $100 including fluid (check Rock auto).

Caliper kits $6 per caliper (the last sets I bought from Rockauto were FAG brand repackaged under the Centric brand, complete drum brake hardware kit $2.53 to $4.40 to do both sides, master cylinder kit $25...or complete A-1 Cardone reman cylinder $22, rotors $35 each (I would clean and reuse the bearings if necessary), drums (if you need them) Centric band standard $20 each, Ferrodo disc brake pads $19, shoes from $11-$23 a set, wheel cylinders all good brands about $6 each.......

so a revised brake cost is $192 for all new parts.....or if you can use the drums and just replace the rotors (common) you can do complete brakes for $122. If you can use the drums too....you can do complete hydraulic for about $85.....oh...and new hoses front and rear for $6.54 each so add $30 to any of those numbers.

Ball joints and Tie rod ends:

Ball joints on Rockauto (right now) are $4.88 and $5.98 for upper and lower respectively and $10.98 and $11.88 respectively for Moog brand.

I think your car "could" be either struts or torsion bars correct? If its torsion bars the shock and boot kit is $70 for the pair (KYB) on Rockauto.
If its struts.....about $80 for the pair including new strut mounts for Sachs on Rockauto.

The strut style ball joints are $14.52 each on Rocakauto. Moog brand

Entirely new...complete left and right tie rod assemblies with both ends and new tie rods are about $21 each respectively.

So....for a days work...maybe two you are looking at about $149 with free shipping for almost entirely new suspension...and at most $220 for entirely new brakes....and maybe $120 for all new hydraulics with reused rotors and drums. Drive it around for a day or so and as long as the rotors are not too thin too pass inspection....they will be fine.

So...$375 gets all of the "inspectables" done. Oh...and look for a used tire mart...usually in the Mexican side of town (no insult intended). For about $20-25 a tire you can get used tires that have enough tread to pass inspection (been there and it saved my ass when i was broke).

So yes....you are almost spot on....with passable tires about $500 will do it.

That...along with what you have already done, lights, blinkers ...brake lights...its running....you can get a better price and get your $500 back. That goes a loooooong way.

Its a roller that any high school kid with some guts and a tool bag can pick up from you and drive without paying for a tow...to get their project home. Or...they can just drive it for a while as is while working on it.

Ray

Sat Nov 01, 2014 2:34 pm

I would love to have a 60's Split Window but I couldn't afford the prices I'm seeing no matter what time of year it is.

Sat Nov 01, 2014 4:20 pm

Well - where I am at - Bozo that bid on ebay for the 63 has about 15 minutes to paypal his deposit and he is done. I think I already changed the price on here to $1250, which is probably better.

My wife and I crunched the numbers on the 70 while on a long drive today. Paying myself a low but reasonable labor rate, a quick but decent paint job, parts , including new window seals, scrapers, set of tires, all new brakes, and a bunch of misc and the purchase price of the car, I'd have about $2800 in it. Once done, it would be a decent driver and would be inspected. I will probably would sit on it until spring, but should be able to get close to $4000 for it without much trouble. Unless something happens by the end of the weekend - gonna put my real project on hold for a couple weeks and get this one done. What sucks is that I have been trying to build up a nice cash reserve becasue I am buying a shop in a couple months. Oh well.....

Thanks for letting me cry on your shoulders.

Sat Nov 01, 2014 6:48 pm

andk5591 wrote: Well - where I am at - Bozo that bid on ebay for the 63 has about 15 minutes to paypal his deposit and he is done. I think I already changed the price on here to $1250, which is probably better.

My wife and I crunched the numbers on the 70 while on a long drive today. Paying myself a low but reasonable labor rate, a quick but decent paint job, parts , including new window seals, scrapers, set of tires, all new brakes, and a bunch of misc and the purchase price of the car, I'd have about $2800 in it. Once done, it would be a decent driver and would be inspected. I will probably would sit on it until spring, but should be able to get close to $4000 for it without much trouble. Unless something happens by the end of the weekend - gonna put my real project on hold for a couple weeks and get this one done. What sucks is that I have been trying to build up a nice cash reserve becasue I am buying a shop in a couple months. Oh well.....

Thanks for letting me cry on your shoulders.

Really.....I would just make it very mechanically sound and do "0" cosmetic and paint. The only thing I would do to the body is derust, sealing or replace anything simple that is rusted out like battery tray.

Any paint you could so for cheap....would be less than....what someone seriously putting things back right.... would want....and most probably, not be a color they are interested in.

Either restore it properly....which means you will never get what you put into it for time and money. .....or, just make it clean, straight and mechanically sound.
there are more people looking for that and willing to pay for a roller that has low PO investment in it....and little or no structural defects. A clean but blank slate.

Ray

Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:38 am

Yeah - the more I am researching selling prices - the less attractive a cosmetic "enhancement" is looking. There is more time and money in that portion because I know how I am. A "quick and cheap" paint job will entail me pulling all the glass, chrome, lights and at minimum the beading. Then I'll end up installing all new seals and scrapers, new headlight trim rings, the chrome bumpers I have and so on. And if I am doing that, then I will want to drop the engine - repaint the tin - new seals there as well.. And if I am lucky - I will recoup my out of pocket cash.

Going to get the "must do now" stuff done on my current project over the next day or two, then pull the 70 down from my storage garage and go through the brakes and probably fix the hole in the floor and let it go at that - But will have to ask my wife to make me stop at that point.....because I wont. :lol: