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Learner Wed May 02, 2007 4:40 pm

what's a good way to raise as so it doesn't feel like a skate board?

kbwakesk8 Wed May 02, 2007 4:45 pm

Learner wrote: what's a good way to raise as so it doesn't feel like a skate board?

is it a irs or swing axel. does your car have lots of body roll. you might need stiffer shocks. some guys run sway bars.

subybaja Wed May 02, 2007 9:28 pm

Learner (cool name), I'm gonna assume that you've actually read the whole Info sticky at the top of the forum...right? :wink:

Two anti-skateboard suggestions-

If you have shiny chrome coil-over shocks, throw them away and buy KYBs. Cheap coils pretty much remove your suspension movement.

When you lift it, don't go crazy. You want 30-40% of your total wheel travel to be in the downward direction from where the suspension sits with weight on it. If you just go for max ground clearance, every time you drive over a pothole the whole car will fall in, rather than a wheel bumping downwards.

shampboys4 Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:26 am

Lo Cash John wrote: Not trying to hijack this post but I have some questions on fabricated trailing arms.

Here's the deal; I have a semi low dollar baja project in the works. It's based on a 70 vert with a rebuilt Type 1 trans and a sweep the floor 2276.
It'll be regularly, but not daily street driven with some excursions offroad here in Florida.

I have found for very cheap (but have not bought yet) 181 front spindles, rear stub axles, output flanges for the trans and a set of axles & CVs from a late model 4 speed bus.

What length/width would I build to gain the most ground clearance?

I found lots of good info at www.blindchickenracing.com but the 2X3 arms he shows building look like they are being used with a Type 2 trans ina baja.

Lo Cash John,
I see this post is from 2004. I see that you are in Jacksonville and I am located just south of you. My question is are there any places in Jacksonville that have plenty of vw parts?

65BAJA Sun Nov 15, 2009 8:54 pm

65BAJA wrote: I just got back from the pick n pull. Picked up some axle assemblies out of a 924 turbo. Inner and outer CVs, inner axles, outer stub axles, and all the bolts for $83. The boots are in great shape, and I can't feel any play in the CVs. I'm going to go back tomorrow for some stock IRS arms from a bug. I saw an early IRS bug there with the double sided spring plates. Now all I need is one of those box in kits for the IRS arms and a couple of weekends to put it all on my baja.

Anyone know what flanges I need to mount these up to a T1 transaxle? Is there a measurement I need to take to figure out what size these CVs are?

And yes I have had them for 5 years now and still haven't put them in. :D

HamburgerBrad Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:02 pm

65BAJA wrote: 65BAJA wrote: I just got back from the pick n pull. Picked up some axle assemblies out of a 924 turbo. Inner and outer CVs, inner axles, outer stub axles, and all the bolts for $83. The boots are in great shape, and I can't feel any play in the CVs. I'm going to go back tomorrow for some stock IRS arms from a bug. I saw an early IRS bug there with the double sided spring plates. Now all I need is one of those box in kits for the IRS arms and a couple of weekends to put it all on my baja.

Anyone know what flanges I need to mount these up to a T1 transaxle? Is there a measurement I need to take to figure out what size these CVs are?

And yes I have had them for 5 years now and still haven't put them in. :D
i think those might be the same as type 4/181/944 cv's. in which case, the drive flanges should be the type 2 conversion flanges. check the measurments on the blind chicken racing website

manu_tlse Sat Nov 21, 2009 1:03 pm

I am buildind a class 11 look like with following rear trans configuration :
091 gear box
930 cv's
stock boxed rear arms

I have already cut the spring plate 15 mm (around 4/7 inch). With this i get 3 inches down travel from what i 'd like to be reference setting.

Could i cut more the spiring plate with my cv and stock arms?
What do you think about the 3 inches down travel ?

thanks in advance

Mal evolent Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:37 pm

drive flanges for type 2 or 4 CVs in a bug:

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1377/AC525106/

stub axles for type 2 or 4 CVs in a bug:

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1375/AC525101/

HamburgerBrad Sun Nov 22, 2009 12:10 pm

manu_tlse wrote: I am buildind a class 11 look like with following rear trans configuration :
091 gear box
930 cv's
stock boxed rear arms

I have already cut the spring plate 15 mm (around 4/7 inch). With this i get 3 inches down travel from what i 'd like to be reference setting.

Could i cut more the spiring plate with my cv and stock arms?
What do you think about the 3 inches down travel ?

thanks in advance
that all depends. get yourself an angle finder and check the angle that your cvs are running at when you're at full droop. What you already cut out of your spring plate is a considerable amount. You could cut off the stock stop that is cast in and add limit straps.

manu_tlse Fri Nov 27, 2009 1:07 pm

thank you for your advices, I will just cut 2 mm more<. I am not worried for the spring plate because I have double spring plates coming from type 3



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