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Mon Mar 22, 2004 12:27 am

no, 5 lug B/J front, raised..... all you would need then are 5 lug rims.

Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:31 am

The wide 5 lug BJ front disc brake kit I got was $500 for the kit. Ive never seen them advertised for $350. What kit are you talking about?

Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:56 pm

Heres a link, the kit I'm talking about is on the right side in the middle, the front disc brake kit (raised balljoint). Maybe yours came with more parts I'm not sure. http://www.socalautoparts.com/HotVWs_Ad/HotVWs_Ad_p07.html

Sat Mar 27, 2004 12:33 am

DanGreen wrote: Heres a link, the kit I'm talking about is on the right side in the middle, the front disc brake kit (raised balljoint). Maybe yours came with more parts I'm not sure. http://www.socalautoparts.com/HotVWs_Ad/HotVWs_Ad_p07.html

Okay, thats the Ghia type disc brakes, not Wide 5 disc brakes. that also requires a spindle change, the Wide 5 kit does not. I couldnt use that kit because I have a Thing, and that has unique spindles. I got the new Wide 5 kit, its listed on that same site.

Sat Apr 24, 2004 11:01 pm

ok, after about a couple of months I have finally collected all the parts I need, I think. Someone please let me know if I got something wrong before I try installing this stuff.

I have type1 modified stub axles that fit bus cv's or type4 cv's, thing axles, thing transmission flanges (should be interchangable), New boots and bus cv's.

I took a long look at the suspension and it looks easy enough and I'm sure I have all the tools needed. Any special tools or torque specs I should know about?

All I'll have to do then is take off the wheels and drums, unscrew and pull the cv's/axles, then pull the stubs and tranny flanges and thats it right? Now I'm ready to install the new parts? Well, I hope its that easy...

....sparky, hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free and ask away. I've got some parts too....

Mon Apr 26, 2004 7:23 am

Dan, make sure you have a piece of chain. You are going to need it after you preload the torsion bars. I usually wrap the chain around the floor jack and bolt it to the upper shock mount, this keeps the car from raising as you are trying to get the spring plate back above the stop. Mine are notched enough that I did not have to do this I just moved the spring plate and slid it back on. I am also using the dual spring plates from an early irs bug(69-70?), they are not necessary but I like the idea of having the dual spring plates. I dont know if they are stronger but I like them.

Mon Apr 26, 2004 7:37 am

That looks like a hell of a notch in the plate, Be careful not to over stress the CV's?

Mon Apr 26, 2004 12:54 pm

So far so good, It has been about 3-4 years like this. I started out using bug cvs, then switched to thing flanges,modified stub axles, bus cvs. I get some clacking when I am making sharp,fast turns, but is ok the rest of the time. One benefit from them being notched this much the ride is not as harsh as my baja, which is also notched but not as much. Here is a picture of my suspension resting on the stop, even with this angle I am having no problems.

Tue Apr 27, 2004 2:50 pm

what about cutting off the stop and using limiting straps?

Tue Apr 27, 2004 3:46 pm

Limiting straps would be more for something like the 3x3 arms and 930 cv's IMO. I'm sure it could be made to work but I'd be worried about the cv's.

So do I have the right axles? Thing axles should be the right size, I think they're about a millimeter shorter than stock type1 but with bus cv's they should be about the right length. What do you guys think?

Also, How do those dual spring plates workout? Have any trouble fitting them? the cover looks like its sticking way out and all the inner parts are exposed.....? I'd probably need longer bolts too?

Wed Apr 28, 2004 7:59 am

Dan, I am using bug axles, no problems so far. I am running them with out the circlips on the ends, because the bus cvs are wider. Like I said no problems after 3 years.

As far as the dual spring plates, they are stock on the early irs bugs. They go on just like the single spring plate set up, which I used to have, my car is also a 1974. I changed springplates,trailing arms,and the torsion bar caps. The reason it looks like I have a gap is because the torsion bar caps has spacers built on to accomadate the dual spring plates.

This set up is not needed I just prefer this setup. Every baja or off-road vw I have owned has this set up, just my prefrence.

Wed Apr 28, 2004 9:10 am

Your gonna need longer bolts for the torsion cover no matter what to get it restarted when you assemble it.

BTW I like to use the torsion tool thats avail, but on a baja when you start going up splines you need to do away with the butterfly nut that comes with the tool and just use a nut and big wrench. I'd also suggest that you go ahead and get all new seals, bearings, bushings etc.. needed. You may as well do it all once and be done with it!

Using the dual plates are definitly a plus if you gonna do any notching to them as they have more strength than a stock single.

Wed Apr 28, 2004 11:00 am

My trick for the tosion caps is find the biggest vice grips you have and clamp the spring plate to the shock tower/torsion housing. Of course this is after you get it over the stop. I have also used some big C-clamps, works the same.

Wed Apr 28, 2004 10:56 pm

Why the longer bolts? I think I understand, once above the stops the spring plates need to be forced back either by tightening the bolts on the cap or by some kind of clamp....? Unless of course they are notched. Explain if I'm wrong...

A vw mechanic I spoke to told me I wont be able to do all this work myself. He said I wont be able to get the spring plates back up..... It cant be that difficult, I think the guy is just under estimating me..... All I need is a jack, BIG screw driver, chain or something as strong and tools for the nuts & bolts. I've read some of the more common tech articles and instructions on how to and all the help from the replies on this thread. I think I'm ready.

I tried once and I didnt get very far, one of the 3 bolts that hold the arm and spring plate together the one furthest from the front of the car wouldnt pull out. It kept hitting the trailing arm before it could be. The only way I saw that I was going to get that bolt out was by cutting it. Anyone ever have this problem?

Anyway I've got all the parts except for new bushing and seals and notched spring plates. As for the axles I think I'll use the thing ones.
What could be so hard about doing this??........

Thu Apr 29, 2004 8:11 am

Dan, do you have the book "How to build Baja Bugs and Buggies"? I suggest this book, it covers the whole process of raising the rear. Dan, just do it it is not that hard, just do one side at a time so you can see how everything goes back together.

Also, by using the clamp or vice grip this relieves the stress on the cap. So you do not need the longer bolts for the torsion caps. Hope this helps take pictures and keep us informed. Later,Mitch.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 9:05 pm

I dont have that book but yeah, I've seen it. I can always go to borders and read the thing or buy it I guess. I just bought a digital camera and Got it in the mail today, I took some nice pictures of my baja but they're too large and I cant figure out how to reduce the size. I might have to take some low quality pix but none the less I'll have some pix up soon. I still have to get that bolt off some how and I have nothing to cut it with. So, I guess you havent had this problem before? thanks Mitch

Fri Apr 30, 2004 7:10 am

Dan, on the 3 bolts for the trailing arm, there is no need to cut anything. Try taking out the bolt you are having trouble with first, I usually leave the other 2 in but a little loose so they take the pressure off of the bolt that is hitting the trailing arm. Then move the trailing arm until you get the right angle to take out that bolt,****You did mark your trailing arm and spring plate, before taking everything apart****** I use a hammer and a sharp chisel to make an indention on top of the spring plate and trailing arm where they bolt together. Once again I highly suggest that book alot of pictures,and alot of useful information.

Fri Apr 30, 2004 4:52 pm

Hey guys,

I got to lookin at this thread and noticed my cv's are at a pretty steep angle--thing is, the spring plates aren't notched; completly stock.

Anything to worry about?

Fri Apr 30, 2004 5:33 pm

DanGreen wrote: Why the longer bolts? I think I understand, once above the stops the spring plates need to be forced back either by tightening the bolts on the cap or by some kind of clamp....? Unless of course they are notched. Explain if I'm wrong...

I tried once and I didnt get very far, one of the 3 bolts that hold the arm and spring plate together the one furthest from the front of the car wouldnt pull out. It kept hitting the trailing arm before it could be. The only way I saw that I was going to get that bolt out was by cutting it. Anyone ever have this problem?

What could be so hard about doing this??........

Starting the torsion covers with longer bolts (at least two across from each other) makes life a whole lot easier in my opinion. You can start them and have the cover lined up with the threaded holes BEFORE you start to twist the bars/plates up over the stops. Try lining things up and using those tiny stock bolts with the pointed end and you'll know why. I have used clamps before and just thought it was more of a chore than zipping some bolts in and out with my air rachet, but hey thats just me. The longer bolts don't need to stay in there (I keep a few in my tool box right next to my tosion adjuster tool) . In a pinch, I used the bolts that attach the body to the shock tower (right in front of you over the drum) to start the covers before as they are a little longer.

Those 3 bolts connecting the plate to arm just take some "finnessing" they DO NOT need to be cut! They can be a pain though, just a take a few minutes to work with it and youll figure it out.

It's not that diffucult of a job to do overal, it is tough in the sence that your figting with torsion bars and heavy akward parts. The very first side you ever do will probably kick your ass! When you go to the other side you'll most likley bust it out in less than half the time.

Fri Apr 30, 2004 7:37 pm

Mark D., you are 100% right the first side is always a pain in the ass, the second goes smooth like butter. I agree with the longer bolts for the torsion caps. Its just over the years and the millionth rear end you have adjusted you learn a few things. I still say he should at least read "Baja Bugs and Buggies" on the rear end section just to get an idea, that is how I learned.

Rifleman, it is not necessary to notch the spring plates, but it does add more lift and more travel. In off-road racing the notching allows more travel, In my case a street legal car it is for more lift. Later,Mitch.