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  View original topic: timing alignment
Lebleboojian Thu Dec 18, 2014 4:56 am

So if I got this right, the bump on the pulley lines up with the case split and then I install distributor to cylinder 1 or does the v notch 7.5 btdc lines up with case split and install distributor to cylinder 1?

Abscate Thu Dec 18, 2014 5:24 am

It takes two complete revolutions of the engine (crank pulley) so one of the bumps will be TDC for cylinder #1 and the other will not.

You can pull the valve cover to confirm TDC for 1 ( both valves closed) or pull the plug and carefully confirm piston at TDC with a soft wooden dowel.

It won't matter if you use timing mark or nub to get the distributor in right once you have confirmed you have the right TDC crank mark.

Time the engine with a light, of course, to get the final distributor position correct.

Joey Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:05 am

Lebleboojian wrote: So if I got this right, the bump on the pulley lines up with the case split and then I install distributor to cylinder 1 or does the v notch 7.5 btdc lines up with case split and install distributor to cylinder 1?

Having the bump (dent) or the 7.5* V notch lined up with the split in the case will be close enough as long as it on the #1 cylinder - valves in the closed position.

Abscate wrote: It takes two complete revolutions of the engine (crank pulley) so one of the bumps will be TDC for cylinder #1 and the other will not.

You can pull the valve cover to confirm TDC for 1 ( both valves closed) or pull the plug and carefully confirm piston at TDC with a soft wooden dowel.

It takes two revolutions of the crank to turn the distributor rotor and cam shaft once. You must confirm the #1 valves are in their closed position for the engine to be at TDC for #1. The #1 piston is still in the TDC position even when the engine is at TDC for #3 so the dowel trick is not an accurate way to to find TDC for the #1 cylinder.



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