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  View original topic: 1970 bus rear engine support
Kaput Thu Jan 29, 2015 5:42 pm

I removed my engine today for the first time to replace the main seal.
I used to own a 65 bus and found this engine a bit more difficult to remove.
I used to put the engine on a milk crate, unbolt it and push the bus forward. I found myself having a difficult time and ended up buying a 3 ton floor jack because I couldn't maneuver the engine well with the rear support on.

I didn't notice it until I took the apron off, do all early bays have this support?
Was my old bus missing it?

Thanks.


Brian Thu Jan 29, 2015 5:58 pm

All early BAYS had them. All splits did not have them.

skills@eurocarsplus Thu Jan 29, 2015 6:38 pm

hope you supported the transmission too. if not, you probably bent your shift rod

Kaput Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:32 pm

i did not support the transmission, i guess bent shift rod...

skills@eurocarsplus Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:36 pm

Kaput wrote: i did not support the transmission, i guess bent shift rod...

yes you did. I would pull it out and check. would be a bitch if you couldn't find a gear after you put it back together

Brian Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:38 pm

That's the reason there is that support bar. The transmission doesn't hang like later buses. Split windows use a cradle and same tranny mounts as a bug.


If it is bent and you know someone good with rolling metal you're in luck. WW has front shift rods available, but not the rear. Make sure to remove the front one before removing the beam. Or you'll bend it like I did.

Kaput Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:56 pm

I just jacked up the tranny and it seems like 3rd and 4th shift fine but 1st and 2nd are rough and I cant find reverse at all.

fuck

Kaput Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:58 pm

Is it likely that the front or rear shift rod is bent?

Brian Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:13 pm

well being that it was connected to the transmission, the rear. The long one that is fun to re install.

Kaput Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:24 pm

Last question... Is that completely straight (or should it be?)?
The front one seems to have a bend in it

Brian Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:25 pm

front has a little bend in it to clear the beam. The rear is just straight

busdaddy Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:37 pm

Usually the coupler takes the worst of it but you could bend the hockey stick and in extreme cases you'll bend the sh*t out of the shift bracket inside or bust it off if it's already cracked.



No better time than now to remove the tranny, pull the nose cone and have a look, while in there do the shift rod bushings too.

wcfvw69 Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:30 pm

Before you pull the tranny out, push the tranmission back to the correct hight with your jack. Now, look at the shift coupler. Chances are it's all bent out of shape. You can remove it and straigten the steel cage back into shape. Reinstall it on the transmission and see if you can now find all your gears.

When I first pulled my engine on my 70, the jack I had supporting the transmission leaked down causing the transmission to droop. It only bent the shift coupler and I was able to find all the gears after straightening the coupler.

If that doesn't fix it, then you might have to do what Busdaddy suggested.

Kaput Fri Jan 30, 2015 12:23 am

I am at the right height with the tranny and can find my gears though it feels like its rubbing on somthing in first and second. I will take a look at the coupler tomorrow.

richparker Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:22 am

Kaput, at this point I would remove the transaxle. Clean and inspect it, rebuilt your shift rod and replace your clutch cable. You're half way there at this point. If you can pull the engine this will be easy. I would buy a good coupler, here some links.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D3595%2DHD

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D711%2D211

You have plenty of time to get it all back together and join us on the Medano Pass Muster. :)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=614296

Amskeptic Fri Jan 30, 2015 12:19 pm

Kaput wrote:
I didn't notice it until I took the apron off, do all early bays have this support?
Was my old bus missing it?
Thanks.


Get a Bentley manual and read through all procedures! The engineering evolved from the old days and you cannot rely on prior experience with a splitty.
Colin

(I use a bottle jack under the transaxle- quicky oil cooler seal replacement here on the curb down the street from Starbucks October 2011)


Manfred58sc Fri Jan 30, 2015 1:47 pm

Well if you have to pull everything please make sure you torque and locktight the bolts that hold the 1/2 shaft to the trans..I installed that awhile back and the threads were a bit worn on the trans side. I agree with Rich, check your rear shift coupler before jumping conclusions, I have seen many early bay trans drops from owners not knowing they need support, the coupler usually takes the hit and its easy to replace. I doubt you bent the long rod. I would take your engine to Ian's repair shop off of Alemeda and Federal (roughly) and let him replace the seal and properly torque the gland nut. I will keep an eye on this thread, nice to see my old bus getting some love.

Kaput Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:36 pm

OK!

The front end of the rod was pulled back a quarter inch and a couple of degrees counterclockwise under the shifter causing the grinding sounds in 1st and second. I was able to make the adjustments at the coupler and now it seems to be shifting well.

Good learning experience, I will be sure to double check my splittie knowledge before jumping into the next big thing.

I appreciate all the input!

Manfred58sc Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:22 am

Cool, if figured you'ed be o.k.,,,

deronmoped Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:15 pm

As long as your replacing the main seal, replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. It's recommended when the engine is pulled, only $4.00 and a leaking seal there may make your clutch slip. Check the clutch out and lube the throwout bearing, if it needs it. It's easy to do, but only pack in a little grease.



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