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Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:35 pm

I was told to set my vales to a loose zero with chromoly push rods.I did and the car backfires out of one exhaust pipe at a constant high rpm while setting the timing and the other pipe has a bit of smoke coming out from time to time.My dual carbs are synced and my timing is set correctly.This is what someone stated on another forum.

If you are running stock rocker shafts and rockers with the waivey washers they will slap to the side while running and make noise. Get a cyl up at TDC, loosen the valve lash and push the rocker side to side. Also .004 is the right lash for SOME Engle cams, says so on the cam card, W 100 and W110 comes to mind. You never stated what cam you have. If stock .006 IS CORRECT.

I have an Engle w110 cam with new solid rocker shafts with no extra side play.Should I set the lash at .004 as stated above and see what happens.I think my exhaust valve are staying open too long with the 0 lash.Could this be right?

Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:58 am

probably have a plug wire on the rong plug......possiably 2 of them :shock: readjust the valves and do it right this time.change the sparking bolts.

Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:34 pm

The wires are correct and the valves are good.I hauled the plugs and the number 1 plug was wet with gas and the others were a little dark.When I went to adjust the valves on number one to 0 I could not get the exhaust valve adjuster screw to go to zero because I would not have enough thread to to put the lock nut on so the best I could do is 003.The rocker is sitting in about 1/8 more than the intake.When I drive it under load there is a big lack of power and when it heats up a loud noise comes in the 1-2 valve cover.Rechecked the lash and nothing moved.Did a compression test cold and 1-75,2-105,3-100,4-100.As you can see 1 is down by 25 -30 over the rest.Could it be a bent exhaust valve or where should I look next?

Thu Apr 16, 2015 2:57 pm

videoguy009 wrote: The wires are correct and the valves are good.I hauled the plugs and the number 1 plug was wet with gas and the others were a little dark.When I went to adjust the valves on number one to 0 I could not get the exhaust valve adjuster screw to go to zero because I would not have enough thread to to put the lock nut on so the best I could do is 003.The rocker is sitting in about 1/8 more than the intake.When I drive it under load there is a big lack of power and when it heats up a loud noise comes in the 1-2 valve cover.Rechecked the lash and nothing moved.Did a compression test cold and 1-75,2-105,3-100,4-100.As you can see 1 is down by 25 -30 over the rest.Could it be a bent exhaust valve or where should I look next?

I normally set my chromoly push rods at .002

Have you done a leakdown test? This will tell you if you have a valve problem.

Thu Apr 16, 2015 3:00 pm

There is nobody in my area that can do that test but when i put the compression tester on it it would not hold its reading as it gradually went down.Is that normal of the testers

Thu Apr 16, 2015 4:28 pm

I was just talking to a local Vw geru with years of experience but does not work at it now but said something interesting.My old rocker assembly had swivel feet and on one of the washers/spacers broke and the rockers were wobbly on one end so I purchased a set of solid rocker shafts with stock rockers with no swivel feet.He mentioned that my problem was that my pushrods were too short because they cut them to adjust to fit the swivel feet and you are trying to adjust the valve lash and you do not have enough push rod to do it properly.He said it will never work until I buy a new set of stock push rods either aluminum set to 006 or chromoly set to a loose 0.Any input would be appreciated.

Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:52 am

While your "guru" is right about there being a difference in geometry without the swivel feet, it would not cause the lack of compression you describe. Are you sure you are setting your lash at TDC?

Fri Apr 17, 2015 6:57 am

pull heads and fix or replace them with new heads. then set up the geo corectly and go have fun. or change camshaft.probably both cam&heads and everything between the valve covers needs rebuilt. we cant see what you see, but it kinda sounds like it's dead.

Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:48 am

videoguy009 wrote: There is nobody in my area that can do that test but when i put the compression tester on it it would not hold its reading as it gradually went down.Is that normal of the testers

Make your own leakdown tester and do your own....

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/leakdown_tester.htm

Or...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html

Dale