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Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:17 pm

Long story short, I took a motor apart a while back. Now its just in the way so im going to put it back together. I removed the fuel injection parts and sources a set of original dual carbs for it. Everything is all cleaned up now and ready for assembly. Im not real familiar with T3 stuff so I need a little assistance.

My first question, I have about 19 cheesehead screws I assume they are just for putting the sheet metal together. I then have 6 23mm hex bolts with shakeproof washer. Where do they go? I then have 6 10mm hex bolts where do they go? Then there is 4 15mm hex bolts 2 have shakeproof washers where do they go? Please see pics below, thanks.

Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:02 pm

I assembled the cooling tin linkage, when I took it apart their was no bushings? Did the bushings come on all the T3 cooling linkage?

Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:32 pm

Does anyone know where to source an expansion spring for the thermostat linkage? Or maybe the dimensions. Im also missing an intake tin deflector if you got one let me know.

Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:14 pm

In the above post I forgot to mention that the bar that the cooling flaps mount to have splines to indicate where the flaps should be anchored. I have included a pic.

So I went by the two vw shops in town looking for some misc parts and some hardware. They had neither, so I went to the local nuts and bolts shop and picked up some buttonhead 6x10 bolts. Below is some pics of the assembly, I also discovered that the thermostat I have is toast.

First order of business was to get the thermostat and linkage situated ( I forgot to put the intermediate lever in place when I torqued the heads down) and put the spring on

I then put on the cylinder tin and the warm air ducts. Before tightening all the sheet metal you should leave them loose and then tighten them after you have bolted up the fan housing half.

*Once again don't tighten them down yet, until the rear fan housing is in place

Next was to get the hear channels in place (sled tins). One of them has a slot for the thermostat.

I have a few questions. The tubes in the heads, when people remove the fuel injection do they use a plug on these tubes? Tie them in to a breather?

So im looking at this hardware, I only have two generator shims? That's what was on the motor, there should of been eight correct ?

The T3 engine manual on Page 1-14 shows that the crankshaft pulley has a seal #16 before the shim on the crankshaft. When I pulled the motor apart there was no seal. Is it a paper seal, any info would help.

Lastly the nuts and bolts on the left any idea where they belong?

In the above post I forgot to mention that the bar that the cooling flaps mount to have splines to indicate where the flaps should be anchored. I have included a pic.

So I went by the two vw shops in town looking for some misc parts and some hardware. They had neither, so I went to the local nuts and bolts shop and picked up some buttonhead 6x10 bolts. Below is some pics of the assembly, I also discovered that the thermostat I have is toast.

First order of business was to get the thermostat and linkage situated ( I forgot to put the intermediate lever in place when I torqued the heads down) and put the spring on

I then put on the cylinder tin and the warm air ducts. Before tightening all the sheet metal you should leave them loose and then tighten them after you have bolted up the fan housing half.

*Once again don't tighten them down yet, until the rear fan housing is in place

Next was to get the hear channels in place (sled tins). One of them has a slot for the thermostat.

I have a few questions. The tubes in the heads, when people remove the fuel injection do they use a plug on these tubes? Tie them in to a breather?

So im looking at this hardware, I only have two generator shims? That's what was on the motor, there should of been eight correct ?

The T3 engine manual on Page 1-14 shows that the crankshaft pulley has a seal #16 before the shim on the crankshaft. When I pulled the motor apart there was no seal. Is it a paper seal, any info would help.

Lastly the nuts and bolts on the left any idea where they belong?

Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:22 pm

Your thermostat looks like it has cracked and is fully expanded even when cold.

Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:39 pm

Phil,

This is the first time I've ever had a thermostat on a vw motor. While researching how to setup the thermostat linkage I discovered it was toast :(

Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:37 pm

Back to the assembly....

So the front fan housing is mounted with 2 6x15 hex bolts, you need to put bolt for the oil housing on at this time.

Next is the fan and rear fan housing and crank pulley assembly. I also found the gasket for the crank pulley in the rebuild kit...

Rear fan housing and crank pulley mounted, next up the engine hanger

The intake housing and seal for it, I also continued using button head bolts 6x25 for the intake.

Next up was the generator and pulley assembly. I found my missing shims with a bunch of stuff that needed to be cleaned...

* Please not there is an arrow/line on the generator that needs to be aligned with the circle on the generator hold down strap for the gernerator to cool it.

I then had some extra parts to clean up, my pile of parts is getting smaller :)

I then installed the coil, went trough and freshened up the distributer, thought I was going crazy finding TDC! lol, its a 7 oclock on FI motors, adjusted the valves.

Next up I started to put the dual carb manifolds on. I have a question though, the fuel injection manifold had a bakelite spacer. The dual carbs have a bakelite spacer that goes between the manifold and carbs. Does anyone see by using both if it would cause a problem?

Bakelite space on head and gasket installed, manifold with bakelite spacer and gasket installed

So I got both sides assembled and couldn't get the aircleaner installed because I guess im missing a piece. The aircleaner support. I have the aircleaner spacer, aaaaahhhhh. So close but so far, lol

Tue Apr 28, 2015 5:49 am

I assembled the aircleaner last night, I also put on the separate aircleaners to see what they looked like, stock is way better...

Im waiting on plug wires and my header to arrive and its a wrap :D :D :D

Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:34 pm

I know this is an old thread, but the work done and the pictures posted are great. Just wondering if you have any finished pictures installed?

Sat Apr 14, 2018 4:25 pm

Man this just shows at how horrible I am at searching this site.
Just now found this and wow. Exactly what I've been looking for, for a while now.

Outstanding work and I'll definitely give you credit when I get mine all together.
Very detailed and I appreciate you sharing.

Mon Apr 16, 2018 1:11 am

Motot is sitting up in my garage. Nothing has changed on it. I had it for a car and when it sold the guy chose a T1 motor instead of this one. Then I listed it for sale twice and it sold bit the buyer fell through both times. I have a Baja now that need a motor, about to slap a S&S T3 merged header on it and a T3 Bugspray carb kit on it, maybe lol

Sun Aug 12, 2018 12:12 am

i also have a couple of type 3 (69 fastback) tin questions -

1. where do these go, and in which orientation:

2. the firewall tin right at the front of the engine (towards front of car) has a gap all the way around but looks like it should fit snugly to the firewall. any thoughts? it was that way when i got the car.

Sun Aug 12, 2018 10:58 am

Those are installed into the underside of the heads. The slot is for the thermostat rod to pass through.

The late model front tin does not seal to the body, with a sometimes large gap.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681784

Mon Aug 13, 2018 2:52 am

nice one, cheers.

the firewall tin is an odd one. it's all pretty open in the type 3 engine bay, why not just make the tin fit the firewall properly. airflow hardly seems likely with all that open space underneath.

Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:47 am

The Type 3 engine bay is open and not sealed to the body like Beetles and Buses for one reason:

In Beetles and Buses, both the cooling air and the combustion intake air are sourced from within the engine compartment. This necessitates that the upper half of the engine be sealed off from the lower half to keep the hot air that gets dumped out under the engine from recirculating into the engine compartment and being picked up to use as cooling air and combustion intake air. Hence all the tin and the seal between the tin and the body.

Type 3s get their cooling air and combustion intake air via the ducts in the body and they have a rubber bellows that connects the fan housing to the body ducts as well as a rubber bellows that connects the air cleaner intake to the body ducts. Those rubber bellows ensure that only cool/outside fresh air gets into the cooling system so in that case there's no need to seal the engine compartment to the body or to isolate the upper half of the engine from the lower.

Of course if you run a Type 3 engine without the cooling fan bellows you will overheat it.

The gap between the firewall tin and body allows for the movement of the engine on its mounts relative to the body without rubbing/scraping/transmitting vibration into the body/scratching up the paint.

Fri Nov 04, 2022 2:15 pm

Great pics on this thread, thank you OP!

Just wondering if anyone knows where the long rectangular part with 2x large round holes (above the coil) fits as can't see it on any Type 3 diagrams? Thanks.

Fri Nov 04, 2022 3:05 pm

once you mount the tins there's a gap around where the intake runners join the heads. it goes above the intake runner, the slimmer pieces sit below. the rubber spark plug boots sit in the holes.

there's a perfect photo in auslanders post above.

Fri Nov 04, 2022 3:33 pm

FunkyOldPatina wrote: Great pics on this thread, thank you OP!

Just wondering if anyone knows where the long rectangular part with 2x large round holes (above the coil) fits as can't see it on any Type 3 diagrams? Thanks.

Go in right behind here:

Sat Nov 05, 2022 9:48 am

Thanks Daos and old_man.

So it's basically a spark plug hole cover (piece of tinware) then from the looks of it, that the spark plugs stick out of?

Cheers guys.

Sat Nov 05, 2022 12:21 pm

FunkyOldPatina wrote:
So it's basically a spark plug hole cover (piece of tinware) then from the looks of it, that the spark plugs stick out of?

Spark plugs don't stick out. It, just like all the other tin, is important. It helps force cooling air through the cooling fins of the cylinders. If you don't have that piece, air will escape.