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  View original topic: rear wheel hub repairs
dirtkeeper Sat May 16, 2015 11:05 am

Last time i had my rear hubs and bearings apart i think was about a year or two ago. Maybe longer. At the time i had play between the bearings and the hub and as i recall at least on one side i had stuffed a feeler gauge shim in the hub to bearing location to try and tighten up the bearing.

I usually am pretty good about looking at the Bentleys and getting all the parts in right. I do recall that i had a bit of "mushed up hub" similar to the picture below and i recall hitting it lightly with a grinder. Well the rear wheel came loose a few weeks ago and i took the hub off, took the following pictures and tightened it back up. After about 100 miles, Though the wheel nut ( the big one) is not loose the wheel and hub are moving around a lot and i need to tear it down and fix er up again.

My questions are

Can i grind the end of my hub flat again and put some washers in to make up the difference of what i grind down?

My drums are probably original vw parts purchased new 30 years ago. They have studs in them and they have never been turned.

Looking for insight into did the hub/bearing looseness cause the drum to get mushed? or did i put i together wrong last time? Just trying to get together the parts and plan for when i pull the thing apart again

If i have to get new drums how do i find quality ones?

I have heard about type 3 drums as an alternative but are they a direct swap? I can probably fish up this info if i do a search.

Can i put a tack weld or something on the bearing to hub location to fix that part of the problem?

I have grease or brake fluid in the drum, not sure which but have a feeling it is brake cylinder leak. Will inspect when i pull it apart again.



Dale M. Sat May 16, 2015 2:56 pm

IF your rear drums are type 1 and if you want to go to type 3 you need to get the type 3 drums, shoes and backing plates as the are larger then type 1....

The reason your drums are mushroomed is because they were not torqued properly, proper torque is 217ft-lbs and when achieved there is a solid lockup from flange on axle through bearings and spacers and drum to nut with absolutely no end play.... Improper torquing is also why people spin the splines out of drums....

Dale

dirtkeeper Sat May 16, 2015 3:15 pm

Dale M. wrote: IF your rear drums are type 1 and if you want to go to type 3 you need to get the type 3 drums, shoes and backing plates as the are larger then type 1....

The reason your drums are mushroomed is because they were not torqued properly, proper torque is 217ft-lbs and when achieved there is a solid lockup from flange on axle through bearings and spacers and drum to nut with absolutely no end play.... Improper torquing is also why people spin the splines out of drums....

Dale

I want to agree with you but I am 100% sure that they were properly torqued the last three times I have had them apart. I have torque buddy tool and a calibrated torque wrench.

Is the drum I have reusable if it is surfaced flat again? Maybe last time I did this it wasn't perfectly flat.

Dale M. Sat May 16, 2015 6:52 pm

dirtkeeper wrote: Last time i had my rear hubs and bearings apart i think was about a year or two ago. Maybe longer. At the time i had play between the bearings and the hub and as i recall at least on one side i had stuffed a feeler gauge shim in the hub to bearing location to try and tighten up the bearing.



What am I reading here.....

What could have possibly happened is that you ran out of threads and the NUT bottomed out before it had full contact with the drum.....

What ever it was the drum was not tight.....

Yes you can probably put drum in lathe and square face... And you may have to add a tempered spacer on outside to insure you have compressed all the components against the flange of axle ....

Dale

Mal evolent Sat May 16, 2015 7:10 pm

Type 1 brake drum in a Type 3 brake drum:



Type 1 rear shoe next to a Type 3 rear shoe:



There are two kinds of Type 3 rear brakes: 62 - 65 & 66 - 74

62 - 65 have the splines integrated into the drum, and have wide 5 bolt pattern:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D311%2D501%2D615%2DE

66 - 74 have a separate hub and drum, and a 4 bolt pattern:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D311%2D501%2D615%2DF



Type 3 rear drums are bigger than bus drums.



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