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Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:39 am

What's a good spray paint to do the engine tin? Not sure I want to shell out serious $ to have the tin powder coated but am going to price it.

Also does anyone ever paint the heads or the block? Got the motor in pieces waiting for the machine shop and am a little bored.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:05 am

Paint on the heads or case is probably not a good idea, due to heat transfer considerations with an air cool'd engine. For the surrounding 'tins' I use a non-gloss black spray that claims heat resistance to 500°F by Plasti-kote.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:37 am

Duplicolor DE1634 low gloss black

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=218770&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:37 am

been painting the engine tin for years with off the shelf satin black paint for years , no problems with the heat.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:41 am

Search for a discussion about engine paint. The short conclusion is that a flat black paint, lightly applied, provides a slight increase in heat radiation from those surfaces. Applied too thickly, the insulation value of the paint starts to erode this advantage.

I tried this on my block and cylinders, but the inevitable oil leaks ended up making it more glossy and smooth (less surface area = less cooling) and it started to dissolve or peel away. Too much of a mess for a cooling difference so slight I couldn't tell the difference.

VW went to chrome valve covers for arctic climates to lessen the heat radiation and keep the valve train warmer, so they must have data to show a difference.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:19 am

fla2smoker wrote: Duplicolor DE1634 low gloss black

This is what you want.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:04 am

Thanks. Sounds like Duplicolor 1634 Low Gloss or 1635 Semi Gloss may be a winner!

Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:52 am

60ragtop wrote: been painting the engine tin for years with off the shelf satin black paint for years , no problems with the heat.
Same here. I use Rustoleum's satin black on the tin. Looks like this:

Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:31 pm

Do you find that the Rustoleum chips easily?

Thu Jul 02, 2015 5:25 pm

johnr156 wrote: Do you find that the Rustoleum chips easily?
Never had any problems with the paint chipping. I guess if the tin were to get whacked hard enough with a tool or something it probably would leave a chip. I'm usually pretty careful about such things when working around the motor though.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:02 pm

Powder Coated tin. $125 including crank pulley and generator pulley. The powder coating guys will work with you. Be specific as the possibility of melted grease on the crank pulley. Does not come out good. They should know how to correct this. If they don't know what your talking about find someone else---only if powder coating is what you want. Gloss black as original inside of tin. Paint will not do this unless your really really good. This is 12 years old. This is 1962 tin.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:08 pm

I've used Rustoleum 7777 (Satin Black) with good results.

Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:19 pm

off the shelf satin black. usually whatever brands on sale. never an issue with the paint failing. after years of use sometimes it wears through in spots.

considering the amount of time in labor it is to clean and prep tin for painting, powder coating is a good alternative. $100-125 or so will get you the complete set coated in many areas.

Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:48 am

If you are going for original look then I guess satin black is it. I like a more glossy look so I used gloss black Rustoleum. No issues with chipping plus it's easier to clean glossy surfaces.

Fri Jul 03, 2015 7:09 am

I got an original 66 Bug with original paint tin, and it is glossy black. My original 1961 Tin in my other bug is also glossy. Maybe the factory did use a satin or matt paint, but if so, the paint certainly turned glossy over the years.

Duplicolor engine enamel is on of my favorites, it dries much faster than rustoleum. However rustoleum is also a good paint, if you have the time for drying. You also have to keep it away form dust until dry!

Degrease the tin well before painting, so as to allow it to stick well.

do not paint the heads for the afore mentioned heat issues. the cylinders can be painted as they are iron and may rust if not painted, so use a thin coating of flat black on the cylinders. It has been shown that a thin coat of flat black will enhance cooling on the cylinders verses rusted cylinders.

the block is another issue again a thin coat of flat black may not be harmful, and can help prevent corrosion, which the magnesium block is known to suffer from. flat black will be the best heat rejecting color here also.

Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:28 am

My '62 has original engine and tin. Tin polished out gloss on back side. VW may have done different things in different years.

Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:37 am

I'm using duplicolor silver wheel paint on the fan shroud and vht satin black epoxy on the engine tin. I think it looks pretty good. Hoping both offer some resistance to gasoline, as spills are inevitable when working on the fuel system. Maybe overkill with the epoxy paint.

I chose paint over power coat because with paint I could use JB weld over minor imperfections in the fan shroud as filler. I welded over some holes made by the previous owner, cleaned them up with a sander, and used a little jb weld to make them look perfect.

Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:04 am

I do like the silver fan shrouds. Here is my 356 engine I did last year. Gloss black Rustoleum tins & the silver fan shroud & oil canister are supposed to be factory super color from Stoddard.

Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:57 am

Rustoleum user here for over 30 years. Applied correctly it's tough and can be retouched if need be. As for chipping it's tougher than others but show me a coating that does not chip,and yes powder coat will chip. Just my experience but powder coat goes on thick and can cause problems especially with pully trying to slide on shaft. Not to mention the cost but at 125 bucks I could paint 10 engines. The last set of stock wheels I saw powder coated it did not penetrate down into parting line between inner outer rim, this will rust in time, I've seen this more than once it's not an isolated case. People that advocate the powder coat usually have a fat wallet and limited experience so they fall for it. Powder coat has its uses though, good for pans and suspension parts that do not flex. This is just advice receive it that way. Happy 4th to you.

Fri Jul 03, 2015 12:05 pm

Prep it right and all these paints work fine. That's why I went with powder coat on my 54...under $100 I didn't have to mess with degreaser, paint removers, wire wheels etc...