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Wed Aug 26, 2015 9:12 am

I'm having a hell of a time getting my brakes fully bleed. Since my last post, my caliper rebuild wen't well - which lead to some other work as well; new mc, a few new brake lines, new brake drums and shoes. And now the bleeding is giving me the most trouble.

I have about 1/2 pedal, which can be pumped 3-4 times to full. Pedal holds pressure and feels firm. I've been bleeding using a suction bleeder (on my 5th round). I bleed the master installed using the 2 person method.

rear brakes have been adjusted to just scraping. pedal and pushrod are set to spec.

do i just keep bleeding and bleeding? should i toss the suction bleeder and try another method? suggestions :idea:

Wed Aug 26, 2015 11:21 am

Your rear brakes are out of adjustment. Make sure all 4 shoes are contacting the drum.

Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:42 pm

CLEMENTINE71 wrote: should i toss the suction bleeder and try another method? suggestions :idea:

Well, I keep mine, hoping that some day, I'll find a use for it. :?

For me, nothing beats the 2 man method. In case you are only 1 man, gravity bleeding (crack the bleeder open, wait) works better than that thing, for me.
Actually, I use the hose & cup from the suction bleeder. The hose in the cap should be submerged in fluid at the bottom of the cup. Attach the other hose to the bleeder and open it a little. Gravity will let the fluid flow, pushing out the air.
I always LOCK the shoes against the drums for bleeding.

Wed Aug 26, 2015 1:36 pm

Welcome to the club!

Some of us have never fully bled the brakes on our type 3s..

I hear a pressure bleeder works; only one I haven't tried yet.

So far 'bench bleeding' :roll: , two-man, suction, speed bleeders. and the 'submerged hose' method have all produced the same results as yours.

I think the pedal is just designed to go halfway down before it does anything.

Wed Aug 26, 2015 2:27 pm

OP, try this test: Pull your E brake all the way on and tell me if that makes a difference in the pedal.

Wed Aug 26, 2015 4:47 pm

Find Bobnotch's beer and bleed ; gravity method . It saved me .

Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:23 pm

grandpa pete wrote: Find Bobnotch's beer and bleed ; gravity method . It saved me .

I was going to suggest that. :lol:

Thu Aug 27, 2015 7:08 am

Definitely ensure the rear brakes are adjusted (even temporarily tight) as Tram suggested. Gotta do that before ANY bleeding or you're wasting your time.

I use a power bleeder since I'm a one-man shop and can't afford to wait and drink beer like Bob. :wink: :lol: Even if you don't have a power bleeder I always recommend getting everything set-up and crack each line on the MC one at a time and let it gravity bleed a couple ounces of fluid out and re-tighten. The MC is really good a trapping air inside it and this simple trick usually purges it out and allows for a really good bleed of the system after.

The power bleeder works well, but it's a 50/50 shot whether or not it will seal to the MC reservoir. I don't know what it is about that little reservoir cap adapter, but my bleeder has a hard time sealing properly to the typical VW reservoir. My other power bleeder has the larger Bus & Porsche adapter on it and it never fails to seal well. . .

Another really good and cheap aid is the Lisle one-man-bleeder that's a tube that slips over the bleeder the goes into a 1 pint reservoir. Great product that works and cost only about $8-10 at FLAPS. I actually use this in conjunction with the power bleeder so I don't make a mess on the clients car or my floor.

I also like the speed bleeder bleed screws (try and say that fast). I've got these on the Squarsche and bleeding is a snap. Just crack one bleed screw, pump a few times and re-tighten. Really a great product!!

Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:16 am

Tram wrote: Your rear brakes are out of adjustment. Make sure all 4 shoes are contacting the drum.

hel yes! Tram you were right on man! Rear brakes were way out of adjustment - a good 4-6 clicks off on the right and another 3-4 on the driver side. Shoes contacting is key

Pedal is nice and high! I've never looked forward to stop signs so much!

...live and learn :)

thnx guys! Tram I owe you a beer,

Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:06 am

Nate M. wrote: Definitely ensure the rear brakes are adjusted (even temporarily tight) as Tram suggested. Gotta do that before ANY bleeding or you're wasting your time.

I also like the speed bleeder bleed screws (try and say that fast). I've got these on the Squarsche and bleeding is a snap. Just crack one bleed screw, pump a few times and re-tighten. Really a great product!!

For reference:

The Speed bleeder site.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

The identification and sizing page.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

The front calipers I just built for my 412 take the same bleeder screw size at the 411 caliper...which takes the same size as the late type 3 caliper.

The SB7100 is the one for the front caliper (M7/1.0 and 35.15mm long)

The SB7100S means "short". It is 5mm shorter.. It works fine also but is a pain to atttach fluid lines to during bleeding because its so stubby and sits close to the caliper bolts.

The SB6100 (M6/1.0 and 28.8mm long) fits the rear wheel cylinder.

These are great products. Also the thread sealant appears to be improved on the new ones and does not get dissolved by some brake fluids.
Ray