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  View original topic: Removing late bay heater cable
SGKent Sun Oct 04, 2015 12:42 pm

Well here is one for you.

Cables have been hard and sticky so someone in another thread suggested lubing it.

Have to pull it out to lube it. One side came easy, the other side one could have hung an elephant on it, it was so stuck.

Pull from front, push from back - inner cable is free and not hanging up at the edge of the tube, housing is hung inside the tube. Finally I cut it near where it drops under the floor knowing that if a piece got stuck inside the tube I was in trouble. Pulled the inner out backwards - it came. Pulled on the outer sheath to see what happened, the whole thing just slid right out. I have no idea how it could have been hung. Totally weird. No evidence of a kink or anything. Let's hope the new cable goes in easy.

Bleyseng Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:07 pm

Nice work! I had one break off inside and to get the housing out I made a flexible drill bit I slid in and drilled the stuck pieces out. Works like a champ now.

Same thing happened on my Ghia where the accelerator cable broke so I thought an easy fix. Turned out there was a kink in the steel tube which I had to drill out to install a new cable. A ten minute job was a 8 hr ordeal...due to a PO bending the steel tube somehow...

SGKent Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:59 pm

Bleyseng wrote: Nice work! I had one break off inside and to get the housing out I made a flexible drill bit I slid in and drilled the stuck pieces out. Works like a champ now.

Same thing happened on my Ghia where the accelerator cable broke so I thought an easy fix. Turned out there was a kink in the steel tube which I had to drill out to install a new cable. A ten minute job was a 8 hr ordeal...due to a PO bending the steel tube somehow...

that was my fear. Al it takes is one pinch, kink, rusted spot etc.

aeromech Mon Oct 05, 2015 1:44 am

I had one stuck last year. I finally narrowed down where it as stuck in the tube. I was able to cut out a 1 inch section and then when clear I spliced in a repair section. It was ugly but I got the heater working.

SGKent Mon Oct 05, 2015 6:50 am

the new cables went right in. Weird that the old one was so stuck internally.

One of the new ones is about 1/2" too long. Trying to figure how to compensate for that. The end goes past the arm

vwwestyman Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:03 am

What is the correct name for the type of cables used for the heater control?

I want to buy some generic cable and make my own to control the hot water valve for my heaters.

Everything I can think of to google is showing various types of wiring, CAT 5, coax, etc.

SGKent Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:20 am

you probably want to go to a Gemo cable catalog and choose one long enough then cut it. Most cables are bicycle style and made for shorter distances. The core on a Gemo heater cable as long as our buses use is solid steel.

http://www.gemo.de/download/catalog2012.zip




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busdaddy Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:34 am

vwwestyman wrote: What is the correct name for the type of cables used for the heater control?
Bowden cable, you may also try Teleflex but you'll likely hit alot of boat steering applications, if you are only controlling one valve and have 2 tubes consider some sort of pull/pull setup with a bellcrank at each end so both cables are under constant tension.



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