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Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:45 pm

So I am going to be welding some tree bars on the rail and was wanting to add a 4 point harness bar at the same time (got the bar stock so why not). Only problem is I can't figure out how to install the notched bar between the rear roll hoop. Don't want to cut the frame to fit it in. Was hoping someone here has done this before and has a awesome idea.

Thanks

Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:03 pm

Are you saying that you have the piece cut to fit and can't figure out how to insert it between the bars? It shouldn't be difficult to put in there.

It should be up near shoulder height.

Sat Nov 07, 2015 8:39 pm

Dusty I think the problem is that the part if his rail that would have the bar welded to it has no angle to it.
I'm not sure how you would do that the right way either.

Sat Nov 07, 2015 9:27 pm

Those seats are horrible... But weld bar across a littler lower than shoulder of seats and drape belts over tops of seats, Add second bar across at shock mount location for harness anchor points... The shoulder harness is more to hold one back and not so much down...

Dale

Sat Nov 07, 2015 9:38 pm

Dale M. wrote: Those seats are horrible... But weld bar across about half way up from slot and shoulder of seats (ignore slots) and drape belts over tops of seats, Maybe add second bar across (at shock mounts for harness anchor points that is way I did mine. Idea of shoulder harness is more to hold one back and not so much down...

Dale

He needs to know how to get the bar to fit in the roll hoop.

I was thinking make the length a bit smaller and fill in the gap on one side with weld but I've never done this before so I didn't suggest it.

The bars going down where you edited the colored bars in for location are parallel and not angled.
I'm thinking installation is what he needs help with.

Sun Nov 08, 2015 4:54 am

Yeah, a way to install the bar is the hard part for me right now. Been reading alot on this and so far the only 3 ideas I have are cut the roll bar to slide in the harness bar, bend the ends in and weld it in that way, or weld in a plate and bolt one in.

I am leaning to a bend idea like this one. Working on new seat mounts (for the really bad poly seats that I don't like but will be using till I see how I like the buggy) the new mounts are going to be angled back so I get a little more head room and comfort. Don't mind the guy in the car, he just worked a 80 hour week and was a little off. But I think to do the bent one might be the strongest way to go about it.

Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:05 am

So after looking around more this is the idea for a bolt on bar.

And I am looking at bending some stuff and need some input on what to try and buy. Going to be doing tree bars and new front bumper. Do I want a roller or bender?

Or

Thanks

Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:18 am

You guys are making this much too complicated by over thinking it... And its got you paralyzed ... Your posts are more we can't do it this way becasue.... Process is simple... Decide if you want bent or straight bar. Cut shoulder bar to length and fish mouth it.... Clean areas where weld will occure ....If inserting straight bar use a jack and wood beam to spread roll bar hoop "a little bit" and tap shoulder bar in place.... WELD....

Same with harness anchor bars....

A roller bender is not the way to go..... Go with a TUBING Bender not a pipe bender.... Look at something like the JD Squared or even a home made one the uses a (replaceable) bending die that fits outside diameter (OD) of tubing ...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Bender&Notcher/Bender/

https://www.jd2.com/

http://www.trick-tools.com/Manual_Benders_126

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/bendin_tube/index.html

http://www.blindchickenracing.com/tools/tube%20bender/tubingbender.htm

BELOW IS NOT A TUBING BENDER ITS A PIPE BENDER OR KNOWN AS A KINKER (It wastes more tubing than it bends)..

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=pipe+bender

The dies on these machines are designed for bending water pipe which is measured by inside diameter (ID)... "tubing" is measured by outside diameter (OD)

Dale

Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:34 pm

Dale's 1st post was right. His last is too.

The only reason to have 2 bars is to anchor the belts to the lower bar and wrap over the upper. The upper as shown is in the right place. Depending on the hardware on the belts, the lower bar may not be needed.

That Jeep XJ shoulder bar is rather high. The uprights are dangerously close to noggins, and where are the top bars of the cage?

The bent bar is fine, but only IF you have a proper bender, not a pipe kinker. I have seen on of the HF pipe benders modified for bending tubing and did a decent job of it, but I'm still not sure where the guy (57Baja - KaddieShack) got the tubing bent right to adapt the die size.

The bolt-in bar is a GOOD idea. Vendors of the clevis sets are quite proud of them ($$).

But to install a straight bar between the uprights should not be real difficult, even without the jack to spread the uprights. Using a mallet to tap it into place should work.

The poly seats are OK. Not as good as suspension seats, but better if it gets parked outdoors.