| dads21s4 |
Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:36 pm |
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Hi All - I'm new to The Samba - well, new to VW's for that matter. I recently bought a fixer upper 71SB with a 1600 dual port. I'd like to give my engine a little bit of a boost, but I'm not sure where to start. I've been told that I can take my 1600 up to an 1835 without having any serious machining done, but I don't know if that's really accurate. I'm also told that a 1776 is a pretty good size conversion, but I have no idea what type/size parts I'd need to make that conversion...see, I told you I was new to VW's. I'm pretty comforatable around a Chevy 350 small block, but these VW's speak a different language. As much as I'd like to smoke my son's 68 Camaro - I doubt that will happen, so racing isn't my real objective.
Thanks in advance,
Eric |
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| 1970VWBus |
Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:46 pm |
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| Sorry, I don't really have any answers for you, since I'm pretty new to VW's too.. But I just wanted to say congratulations on the purchase of that SB. |
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| dads21s4 |
Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:50 pm |
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| Thanks VWBus...we'll see what happens. I guess the worse thing that can happen is I turn my engine into a giant German paperweight! |
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| 1970VWBus |
Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:51 pm |
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| Yeah, that's always an option.. I've been tempted to do that to my engine lately. lol |
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| happyjack |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:53 am |
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I'm fairly new to the scene myself, but I've found Aircooled.net to have a wealth of good information.
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm
Read the artice about "Easy Aircooled Mods: Getting the most out of your stock VW"
Have fun! |
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| auslander |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:58 am |
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| You could go a 1641 without any machining and gain a little extra horsepower-anything above this size will require case and head machining, with your stock crank I wouldnt go any bigger than a 1776, a 1776 will give you good power. If you go any bigger you will have to consider getting a counterwight crank, dual carbs, exhaust system upgrade, and making it full flow is always recommended |
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| mike thompson |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 5:41 am |
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I am rebuilding my 1600 out of my turbo manx type and I was going to do the 90.5 (1776) but decided to save the 250 or so dollars that upgrade would cost (I am not in California where the machining is cheaper) . I figure I am giving up around 12 hp - not a giant figure. Why don't you start with breathing improvements. As I mentioned in another post today, I ported the stock heads and it was not difficult. From a stock cam, I am stepping up to a 275 degree cam-( I ran a 110 -284 degree cam years ago and the bottom end torque disappeared). Headers for Vws are cheap, I would suggest a quiet pack type. Everybody on these VW sites likes dual carbs.
If you don't mind a big learning curve and a lot of fabricating, a draw thru turbo might be worth looking into.
Mike |
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| dads21s4 |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 7:58 am |
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| Thanks so far to everybody that's responded. It's pretty obvious that I've got some VW "catching up" to do. I'll take any suggestions and pointers you might have so please, keep em' coming! I guess I better start ramping up my technical savy before I tear into this engine. |
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| Glenn |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 8:26 am |
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You should come up with a plan and a budget. If you try to do upgrades in tiny steps, you'll be waisting money in the long run. Other than a set of slip-in 87's any increase in displacement will require some machining of the case and heads.
A 1776 is a good choise. Depending on what you do to it, it can range from 80-120hp. Good heads are where most of the power is made. Quality parts will keep reliability close to stock. Dual carbs are worth the trouble.
If you want larger, skip the 1835 and go for a 1914. Anything larger requires a stroker crank and more machining.
As with all hi-po stuff... the good stuff isn't cheap. But buying quality the 1st time is cheaper than having cheap parts break... and they will.
Beware of so called "turnkey" engine from mass marketers. They are notorious for hiding reused parts inside. Ask lots of questions. The more you know the better your results will be. |
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| dads21s4 |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 9:11 am |
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| Thanks Glenn, but I have a quick question. If I jump to a 1914, is that a change that would require a new block, or could my current block be machined to work? |
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| Glenn |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 9:39 am |
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| You can have your current case machined. That's assuming it not beat to shit and not worth using. |
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| Hornman |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 1:16 pm |
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You can always trust Glenn for good advise!
Right now, I'm so broke I can't even pay attention. BUT I know that I'll have to put a new motor in the '67 in the future. I'm really thinking of the 1776 as it isn't much more $ than the 1600. Glenn, my splitty has the FF tranny. I have a 1600SP. Would you recommend my going with a 1776SP? It would save me money on the bolt on stuff, like the tin and the manifolds for my Kadrons. I've heard that the SPs have more torque in the bottom end. But with a FF, is that needed? Would I really gain THAT much more with the dual ports? Enough to pop for new manifolds, etc.?
Thanks man, |
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| a_67vdub |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 1:44 pm |
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Actually, you want more torque if you have a FF tranny.
Steve |
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| 66split |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 3:18 pm |
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| go turbo..... :) |
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| Mick |
Fri Feb 27, 2004 7:18 pm |
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A couple of guys I know have just sucessfully done a turbo instal on a stock 1600, it runs with an intercooler and cooling doesnt seem to be a problem, they ran a first out time of 15.2@86mph, thy are looking into a few refinements but are thinking seriously of marketing it as a kit.
Having been in the bug they installed it on they've really got it set up well, as to wether this will take off for them or not I dont know, I'll keep you posted if I hear anything further. |
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