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Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:37 pm

Howdy, bought this buggy off my brother. Been wanting a Baja bug for awhile and just hadn't found the right one. Then my dad says my brother has a rail buggy for sale. So I jumped on it. Looking to learn and get advice. My goal is to make it a good running buggy and street legal it. Cut my teeth on it and keep my eyes peeled for a Baja. The good, it runs strong, new pistons and rings. Not sure what other improvements or what is good. This is all new to me. I learned to drive a stick in my brothers bug in high school. The bad is reverse is shot. My brothers snow pant had the lock out button pushed in and he threw it into reverse. It goes about two feet then sounds awful. Pics worth a thousand words. Just want to say high and get s thread started.

VW 73-74

Engine: dual relief-dual port 1600cc 48bhp DIN, 46hp SAE-net. USA-only - 1641 Piston:

Gearbox: DC 1500/1600, ratio 3.80/2.06/1.26 0.89 4.125 Type 3 IRS from 8/68

Carb: progressive Weber

32 36DFAV 24A4J/28 dual port

Alternator: 970Z

Bugpack

Ray Tech

1.5 ohm flame thrower

And this is what I found from digging around
Thanks looking forward to a new adventure

Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:51 pm

Looks good and fun, better get them top cylinder shroud put on ...helps a lot for cooling each cylinder,

Wed Jan 27, 2016 8:10 pm

That's a nice frame. looks like a modified appletree or whitehill..

Wed Jan 27, 2016 8:26 pm

Nice! I like the stance.

X2 on the cooling tins. Those aren't optional.

Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:18 pm

My brother was told it was an apple tree. Yeah I lime the low profile and stance. Please pardon my ignorance on "cooling tins" I'm pretty sure I know what you're talking about. There is still a box of parts that goes with it. A chrome kit, seat covers and a few other things. The tires are way to big as well, so I'd like recommendations. I will start a new thread on rebuilding the carb. I brought it home with me. I think it's a Webber progressive, but I read there's Chinese clones, but research says Webber. Thanks!!!

Wed Jan 27, 2016 11:57 pm

I have to agree that the upper cylinder tins NEED to be installed. They are sheet metal pieces which cover the upper sides of the cylinders on the engine and direct air flow over the cylinder's cooling fins. There are 2 pieces, one for the right side and one for the left.

I also note that there is no wire connected to the oil pressure warning sender. It would be good to have a working idiot light for that.

You need to replace or rebuild your trans. Reverse is quite weak in VW transaxles. IF reverse is the only gear damaged, it might be fixable by opening only the differential housing as that's where reverse is at. It might be more serious and require tearing the whole trans down. Not a job I recommend for the Noob at VWs.

The shaft of the left front shock on that widened link pin front end looks rusty near the top end. That will destroy the shock seal and cause it to quite pretty quick Looks like a Rancho 5000 shock or similar.

Thu Jan 28, 2016 4:56 am

I'm with the above posts as well.

Looks like the throttle pedal stop should be re-engineered slightly :wink:

Not sure if it is gravity fed fuel or electric pump, but it would run much better with heat to the intake manifold

I like the tire size and stance

Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:00 am

Thanks! Any other insights would be great to add to the list. The buggy is in Michigan right now. All I have in Ohio is the carb and I will start a thread on that soon. Agreed on the gas pedal it has some issues. Gas is electric. There is no idiot like. The "dash" is pretty minimal now, ignition and a switch for some trail light. I'll address that while making it street legal. Have to buy some books here on payday. Shocks! Heck last time I drove it I'm not sure I saw the front shocks move! i just replaced the sesls on my hodaka ace 100. not sure if thats possible or just buy new socks.
Reason I mention the tires is because it's in the lower UP and I had some trouble in some of the sandy areas. I like the look, I will also be bringing it back to Ohio so may be fine here. Thanks again all look forward to learning and yelling and cutting my knuckles.

Thu Jan 28, 2016 6:04 pm

Hodaka Ace 100! I still have my 1-owner Hodaka 250ED. All it needs is a fresh top end and a carb rebuild.

Those shocks you have are definitely NOT rebuildable. There ARE rebuildable shocks for buggies, at about 5 times the cost of the ones on there, which for your sort of use are just fine. Just buy new Rancho/Skyjacker/ProComp/whatever.

Thu Jan 28, 2016 6:30 pm

Is that belt on inside-out?

Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:46 pm

While it's more common to have "teeth" on the inside of the V-belt, I've had a few belts that look just like that one.

Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:15 pm

250 hodaka Thunder Dog sweet! Never been around one in person.

Thanks all, on the belt, tell you the truth since I bought this I have only been around it once :( it's 6 hrs north in Michigan. So I really haven't gotten a good over all look. I just tried to take pics and get numbers so I can get on here and learn some stuff for when I go back.

Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:32 pm

dustymojave wrote: While it's more common to have "teeth" on the inside of the V-belt, I've had a few belts that look just like that one.

Yeah, those belts are call "top cog". Suppose to be more flexible less cracking.

Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:13 pm

And just so this post is not OT...

Fri Feb 05, 2016 5:29 am

I'll echo everyone else, cooling tin is not optional, even on an open air car. I will be the first one to rain on your parade and advise you that the progressive carb belongs on a Pinto, not on a VW.

You said the engine has been changed to a 1641, is everything else stock? I'd advise you look for a set of ICT's or baby dells for a nice performance boost.