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Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:57 pm

I,m still researching painting my 86 westy with bed liner. The products that interest me are monstaliner and upol raptor. My question with the upol is what brand/ type of paint tint do u use with the tintable raptor. I could not find any info on their site. Both products seem similar as far as uv protection, aplication and durability.
Thanks :?

Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:04 pm

try looking on a jeepforum.com.

There are gobs of info on Monstaliner on there; I'm sure the same for the other brands.

Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:09 pm

Raptor bedliner tints with basecoat.

Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:34 pm

Terry Kay wrote: Raptor bedliner tints with basecoat.

+1

Pick your favorite basecoat, instructions on the bottle with raptorliner, fill to line etc.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 6:13 pm

The tintable raptor bedliner never gets an exact color match, I've tried many different times. I recommend scuffing the bedliner once allowed to dry for 24 hours, then spray with adhesion promoter (bull dog) and follow up with base coat clear over top.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 6:56 pm

casey79westfalia wrote: The tintable raptor bedliner never gets an exact color match, I've tried many different times. I recommend scuffing the bedliner once allowed to dry for 24 hours, then spray with adhesion promoter (bull dog) and follow up with base coat clear over top.

Good to know.
Thanks.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 6:57 pm

Couple of reasons.

Your taking basecoat and anticipating a dead on match when you have used it as a tint.
You lost one thing---depth--- in mixing it with the bedliner.
You've gained texture in mixing the basecoat to the urethane.

You can't have both.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:04 pm

You can have your cake and eat it too if you topcoat the bedliner with sealer basecoat and clear. It that scenario no reason to use the tintable bedliner at except it does help to have a lighter ground coat. Thats what I did in the above pic. Matches the surrounding paint very well after topcoat ing with the proper paint code.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:11 pm

I did the bed of my Toyota truck and the bumper covers on my wife's camry and the rocker panels with monsta liner as a test before I put it on my westy the car I care about. I Like how it looks and I can roll it on in the residential area were I live (I could never get away with spraying paint here). Good luck

Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:14 pm

Before topcoating with paint code. This is using the same base mix that's in the engine compartment. But look how different they turned out. I even added a lot of black to the mix. Still not even close.

After topcoating with paint code. The bedliner does have texture so of course it has more shadowing and doesn't reflect the same but overall in person it's almost exact side by side. Two different textures but same color.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:23 pm

Another shot next to jambs. Sorry for the poor pics I need to get a new phone. When I get the car out of my shop I can get some better photos outdoors in bright sunlight.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:32 pm

casey that looks killer! great job more pictures please. I think you hit the perfect medium.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:45 pm

I've used the raptor for years in a lot of HD high wear applications.
If I'm refinishing a GM pickup with a utility box on it's back, I sand down the inside if all of the boxes on both sides and blow the tinted raptor in them all.
Does it match?
No.
But who cares?
I'm looking for durabilty.
Besides, you can't see the inside of the utility boxes at 70 mph anyhow.

You'll never get the bedliner to match basecoat, clearcoat.
It's impossible, two different animals, two different applications, two different processes.

Close, but no cigar.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:49 pm

>>You can have your cake and eat it too if you topcoat the bedliner with sealer basecoat and clear. It that scenario no reason to use the tintable bedliner at except it does help to have a lighter ground coat. Thats what I did in the above pic. Matches the surrounding paint very well after topcoat ing with the proper paint code.>>

No.
What are you sealing the flexable urethane with, how are you adding tooth to the urethane for the sealer to bind?
Your loading on top of a textured bedliner.
You'd have to seal to the moon, sand between coats for the paint it to bite into it, and then basecoat & clear on top of that?

You've just lost the flex of the urethane bedliner, plus the duability.

Totally backwards proceedure, or you have what you did just written all wrong.

Read the instructions that came with the bedliner.
This isn't the correct process.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:17 pm

Of course it matches. It's sprayed over with the exact same mix of paint as the rest of interior and all at the same time. Its texture vs a smooth surface so you get shadows in the texture and of course the mettalics will lay a bit differently in the texture but overall its unnoticeable. I do want it to match and be durable even if I'm doing 70 mpg. . It can match if you do it correctly. I paint and runs paint business for a living so I have spent a good amount of time playing with this stuff over the years and I have found a system that works really well for me and my customers. Here's my steps.

Prep surface with 80-180. I spray epoxy down first since I trust that as my corrosive n barrier much more then the bedliner. After the epoxy has time to flash I spray my bedliner with a shutz gun right on top. Following day I scuff and topcoat the bedliner with adhesion promoter and follow with sealer and base coat clear sprayed out-of a spray gun. I did my jambs along with this to get proper color in the interior throughout. It can be done. Lots of work but I'm very happy.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:18 pm

I just spent the last 7 hours balancing the colors of television studio cameras using a vectorscope and waveform monitor... my brain is stuck with a semi-permanent set of color bars burned into it at this point... and I can see magenta in its true form.

my wife is basically a color czar... or at the least holds the skill set of one. (look it up)

technically speaking... neither of you is wrong.

carry on.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:29 pm

However your looking at it your laying hard drying 2 stage paint on top of flexable urethane.

It'll chip right off of it.

Plus, lacquer thinner won't touch Raptor when it's cured.
Nothing is going to etch it to accept more color & clear.

You'll find out.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:37 pm

Terry I think you really just live to be a know it all. Im offering my experience. I am not going to be using this as a truck bed, I mainly used the bedliner as a sound deadner on the interior and wanted proper color match. Its plenty durable for my use and looks great. Please read your tech sheets however before shouting out crap, its clear you dont before commenting. Page five says can be topcoated with modern paint systems, only thing i do differently is spray adhesion promoter just in case any areas in the texture dont get scuffed perfectly. Extra insurance. I bake my jobs at 130-140 and let them sit for a few days before topcoating even though upol only says 24 hours. You win is that what you want to hear?Done it many times and hasnt failed me yet, so let it be. Stop with all the urethane mumbo jumbo. Apparently you live to disagree.

http://www.u-pol.co.uk/documents/datasheets/tds/RLT-TDS-US.pdf

Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:44 pm

Call upol please and tell them that there stuff should not be topcoated as they have suggested because you know more then they do. Its like a bumper they flex and move and with proper flex agents or urethane clears they dont go popping all over the place either. Yes the bedliner is urethane So is my sealer base and clear. Stick to what you know buddy. Offer positive advice in the forum and help others along the way. No one likes a know it all or a pretend know it all. Just sayn'. Read the tech sheet and get back to me. I'm sure what I have done is still all wrong. Or could you actually be wrong for once? I don't just jump in to a thread and offer stupid advice I'm trying to offer my success and hopefully it helps someone.

Wed Feb 10, 2016 9:00 pm

Painted all of Chicago Macks used Trucks, since 1979, plus private fleets.

Your right, I don't have a clue about refinishing anything.

Go paint a urethane ball with sealer, then paint it with base/clear.
Then toss it .

See what happens.

After that raptor sets up you are not going to get any basecoat / clear to stick to it, it'll roll off sooner or later.

Maybe if you allow it to set up for a month, and hit it with 40 paper, you could hang some more bedliner on it.
But the original bedliner will ball up in that paper so fast it'll load up 2 reams of paper before you got it all cut to accept the same urethane product.
Bedliner.

You had too much product and with too low an air pressure blowing out of the gun, that's why it wound up looking like a sandbox.

But you know much better about this than I.

Urethane is rubber.
You can forget about that if you want.