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  View original topic: What kind of metal to use to repair body?
Enkiel Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:25 pm

Sound stupid, but i'm trying to locate the correct metal to repair the wheel arch.

What the guys offer is ; Satin, Black iron or galvanized in 18ga...

does any of the 3 sound good to you? i'm a bit puzzled

57BLITZ Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:56 pm

If at all possible, DO NOT weld galvanized!
You CERTANLY would NOT want to buy galvanized sheet to weld as a patch panel . . . get the raw, cold-rolled steel!

Take a look here . . . http://metalsupermarkets.com/blog/difference-between-hot-rolled-steel-and-cold-rolled-steel/

Also look here and check the "METALS" tab . . . http://metalsupermarkets.com/ottawa/

theKbStockpiler Thu Feb 18, 2016 5:48 pm

Most hardware/home-centers stores or wholesalers sell raw sheet metal or galvanized. The classification of common steel is (A36) which is not hardened and is usually the only type they stock. I don't think galvanized is going to benefit you much and can be severely toxic. If you grind away the area that you are welding and ventilate it well it's safe as far as my own experiences are. You can't breath the dust from grinding either. The terms you are using sound more like how Gas Pipe is referred as. :shock: Maybe you talked to a new employee or an idiot. :D

beetlenut Fri Feb 19, 2016 6:13 am

Go to a sheet metal shop and ask for some 18 gauge cold rolled steel. Or better yet, get some old non-rusted VW body metal and use that as a starting point. Welding on galvanized metal releases cyanide gas=not good! The wheel arch metal is thicker than the body metal, so I think 18 gauge, 20 at the thinnest would work out.

Enkiel Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:10 am

i had the feeling the guy didnt know what i wanted.... i'll try to go with the A36 definition and see what he comes up with...

Kinda annoying, my bus restoration is halted because of two problem, metal and a 220v extension, i never expected to have (well, not never, but didn't think THAT would be what stops me)...

Enkiel Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:17 am

57BLITZ wrote: If at all possible, DO NOT weld galvanized!
You CERTANLY would NOT want to buy galvanized sheet to weld as a patch panel . . . get the raw, cold-rolled steel!

Take a look here . . . http://metalsupermarkets.com/blog/difference-between-hot-rolled-steel-and-cold-rolled-steel/

Also look here and check the "METALS" tab . . . http://metalsupermarkets.com/ottawa/

wow... so a 2'x2' cost 50$ to ship.... yeah, i need to buy local.... kinda sad tho, because that site had everything.....

Air-Cooled Head Fri Feb 19, 2016 9:19 am

beetlenut wrote: Or better yet, get some old non-rusted VW body metal and use that as a starting point.

^^^ What I always do. I don't recall ever welding anything but old VW metal to an old VW. :lol:

Offer to clear old doors, hoods, etc from a buddys garage. They will thank you, and you'll have your donor metal.

theKbStockpiler Fri Feb 19, 2016 11:30 am

Unless you are going to special order a truck load of it ,metal wholesalers only stock A36 or they might have some other stuff they buy back and then resell but as far as they are concerned if it's not specially ordered ,it's all A36 steel with the other stuff mixed in. If the steel is bought back and marked down it is refereed to as 'surplus steel/metal'. You can usually buy it by the pound at about $1 U.S per pound. If worst comes to worst go to HomeDepot in the hardware section and buy some 18 gauge sheet metal. A big deal does not have to be made of it. :D

c21darrel Fri Feb 19, 2016 6:06 pm

^^^this is what I do too. Go down and pick thru the scrap pile and buy per lb. Its super cheap this way.
Google "steel" in your area.

raygreenwood Sat Feb 20, 2016 3:48 pm

beetlenut wrote: Go to a sheet metal shop and ask for some 18 gauge cold rolled steel. Or better yet, get some old non-rusted VW body metal and use that as a starting point. Welding on galvanized metal releases cyanide gas=not good! The wheel arch metal is thicker than the body metal, so I think 18 gauge, 20 at the thinnest would work out.




Uh......cyanide fumes? .... :lol: ....no. it release zinc fumes,....and they are only MARGIALLY toxic with short term issues from most common, thin galvanized sheet with basic ventiation.

Serious metal fume toxicity can come from lots of different metals....and zinc fume sickness is really only a serious risk if the metal has HUGE amounts of zinc.....like crusty zinc....or you are just welding tons of basic galvanized sheet every day.....or the worst....if you are smelting cast zinc or plating with it.

On regular thin zinc galvanizing.....sanding off the sinc and inhaling the dust is actually a much larger risk.
Still....dont use galvanized. There are risks and it will have lousey welds. Ray

kman Sun Feb 21, 2016 5:37 pm

I sometimes use galvanized on interior panels that become enclosed and will be difficult to spray or rust proof.

Enkiel Mon Feb 22, 2016 6:36 am

took me 3 metal shop to find anything thicker than 20 gauge...

its closer to 16 than 18, but the piece i'm replacing was definately at least 18, so it should work.

What the guy told me is that most shop won't sell small piece, because they don't want to cut their big sheet just for that.

the 2'x3' ended up costing me about 18$ CDN, which is 12$ USD. Not too bad.

theKbStockpiler Mon Feb 22, 2016 6:07 pm

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&am...JQN9klDf5w

Enkiel Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:07 am

theKbStockpiler wrote: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&am...JQN9klDf5w

refer to a few post above....

Enkiel wrote: 57BLITZ wrote: If at all possible, DO NOT weld galvanized!
You CERTANLY would NOT want to buy galvanized sheet to weld as a patch panel . . . get the raw, cold-rolled steel!

Take a look here . . . http://metalsupermarkets.com/blog/difference-between-hot-rolled-steel-and-cold-rolled-steel/

Also look here and check the "METALS" tab . . . http://metalsupermarkets.com/ottawa/

wow... so a 2'x2' cost 50$ to ship.... yeah, i need to buy local.... kinda sad tho, because that site had everything.....

ZENVWDRIVER Thu Mar 10, 2016 12:13 pm

Air-Cooled Head wrote: beetlenut wrote: Or better yet, get some old non-rusted VW body metal and use that as a starting point.

^^^ What I always do. I don't recall ever welding anything but old VW metal to an old VW. :lol:

Offer to clear old doors, hoods, etc from a buddys garage. They will thank you, and you'll have your donor metal.

I needed patches for my '64 ghia floor and used the flat metal from a 1971 bug door on the driver side and the metal from the side of my 1961 SO34 parts bus, on the passenger side.




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