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Tue Mar 01, 2016 5:38 am

When installing the 10 degree mount there are 4 holes drilled in the mount sort of by the ears. They line up with the bell housing bolts. Am I suppose to run the bell housing bolts through them?

Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:39 am

4 bottom bolts that hold bell housing to trans axle. yes that's what i did.
Terry

Tue Mar 01, 2016 7:50 am

Do the ears on the later 3 rib get in the way of a beetle body?

Thanks for the response.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:53 am

Sorry can not help as I have a late trans with early bellhousing. My late bellhousing is bolted to engine run stand but is at farm so can not even look at it at the moment. I am using the 002 tranny's
Terry

Tue Mar 01, 2016 10:04 am

Yes, the ears on the trans just barely touched the body on my car. I just used a hammer and smashed the lip on the body where it touched.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 10:30 am

And I put in a 3" body lift so never had to deal with that issue
Terry

Tue Mar 01, 2016 10:30 am

And I put in a 3" body lift so never had to deal with that issue
Terry

Fri Mar 04, 2016 6:11 pm

Thanks for the help. I thought about just grinding the ears a little. I have a respirator.

Sun Mar 06, 2016 9:01 pm

Sawzall :D

Tue Mar 08, 2016 4:21 pm

Okay I've asked but I didn't get the correct answer so I'm gonna ask again. I'm looking for an answer from someone who has done a 3 or 5 rib swap.

Why do the instructions say to shorten the Bowden tube? I've seen pics of people who make a new bowden tube holder that is higher than stock. What's the issue with it? Does the clutch cable end up too short or too long if you used the stock Bowden tube in the stock 3 rib Bowden tube holder.

Wed Mar 09, 2016 10:09 am

I used the stock bowden tube and mount.
You will need to cut the clutch cable tube free, move it over a little, and reweld it.

Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:41 am

I didn't need to move the clutch cable mount, but I did mod the holder. I tried to crawl under their yesterday to see what I did, but too much gunk and good clothes stopped me.

Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:42 pm

tripicana wrote: I used the stock bowden tube and mount.
You will need to cut the clutch cable tube free, move it over a little, and reweld it.

So did you need to shorten the tube? I saw a post where they had to move the location where the tubes come out. If I have to that's no big deal. Just trying to get a handle on the only thing I don't fully understand. I'm going to start the swap Friday morning and it has to be at least rolling by Monday. I think it's plenty of time. Then my dad takes over the garage for awhile for his bronco project.

What does shortening the tube do? What end do you shorten?

Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:59 pm

Cut your frame horns and reweld. Then get the trans centered and mounted into place. Don't sweat the clutch, it will come together. Just make sure that you have the same amount of bend in the Bowden tube as a regular T1. That's the only thing important. Almost forgot, on mine the reverse light switch would hit the frame horns. Had to break out the guts, and braised a nickel to cover the hole. Don't want to have to this with the trans in the car.

Thu Mar 10, 2016 12:30 am

When you "center" the trans, measure at the CV mounting face of the CV flanges. The Bus trans should have the bellhousing off-center. Otherwise, your axle shafts will have to be different lengths.

Thu Mar 10, 2016 5:09 am

i didn't think about centering it. I'll measure. The 10 degree kit should help with locating the trans in the correct spot right? It bolts on to bell housing and frame horns so as long as I don't put the nose cone mount in the wrong spot I should be alright?

I'll take care of the reverse switch. I remembered you saying that before.

Thu Mar 10, 2016 5:26 pm

It should pretty much line up on its own, just double check. Remember that you can not shorten the Bowden tube. It has metal ends to lock itself into place.

Thu Mar 10, 2016 6:06 pm

Ya, I did not do anything to the Bowden tube, just moved the cable tube on the chassis.
Like said before, the reverse switch does hit the frame. I was able to just bend the electrical connections, not destroying or removing guts.
The front mount tube that you weld to the torsion will be way to long. It will need to be trimmed to fit. Tack weld it in place with the trans installed, remove the trans and fully weld it.
You will also have to clearance the frame horns a little.

Sat Mar 12, 2016 9:18 pm

Okay I got one stub axle out and There is a small bearing stuck. I'm letting it soak over night but anyone got any tricks to getting it off in one piece?

Sun Mar 13, 2016 9:13 am

What are you doing taking stubs out for a trans swap, thought you had a deadline😀
Did a spacer come out with a stub axle? It should just slide off