TheSamba.com :: View topic

Mon Mar 14, 2016 4:49 pm

Is there any way to remove dry guide coat without sanding it all the way down
I am on my final stage of sanding Slick Sand with 500 grit dry. I am finding pin holes, crevices and spot welds that either need finishing putty or don't need sanding at all as they will be covered with hardware. Mainly I am concerned that if I miss a spot the paint won't stick. I would rather have a poor preparation than trying to paint over graphite.

Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:55 am

If you have dry guide, wouldn't that indicate a low spot?
If you are "finding pin holes, crevices and spot welds" then you still have some mud slinging to do.

"I would rather have a poor preparation than trying to paint over graphite."
:shock: Somehow, they sound the same. #-o

Wed Mar 16, 2016 9:36 am

In a perfect world that would be the way to go.

But it would be easier to somehow remove the dry guide coat and glaze the pinholes rather than sand all the way down to bare metal and reshoot Slick Sand.

Also the spot welds I am talking about won't show, they will be covered with hardware. However, it would be nice to have some paint on them.

Wed Mar 16, 2016 9:52 am

uffdakev wrote: In a perfect world that would be the way to go.

But it would be easier to somehow remove the dry guide coat and glaze the pinholes rather than sand all the way down to bare metal and reshoot Slick Sand.

Also the spot welds I am talking about won't show, they will be covered with hardware. However, it would be nice to have some paint on them.

Well, I can't think of how you'd remove the guide w/o sanding it off. But that could lead to more Slick Sand and more sanding.

This is what I say about pin-holes.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1335678.jpg
This is a picture of my car. Note the brown spots, particularly on the hood.

This is generally the same area, on it's way to bare metal.https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1419253.jpg

The brown spots are rust. Notice there are a lot more in the second pic? Those were pin-holes in the filler that allowed the underlying metal to rust, and eventually break thru to the surface.

For the spotwelds, I would put some type of paint on them.

Wed Mar 16, 2016 3:10 pm

I'm not worried about water getting to the metal since it is epoxy coated with DP, except where I have sanded through. I am going to seal it with reduced DP so hopefully I am safe. I would rather paint over unsanded spots of Slick Sand (very small) than dry guide coat (graphite powder).

Thanks for responding, I have scoured the internet for and answer to this question with no luck. It appears there is no way other than sanding.

Fri Mar 18, 2016 5:53 pm

Two areas to look for the information you seek, product label and MDSS or call your jobber.

Wed Mar 23, 2016 10:22 pm

Hit it really quick with sandpaper, hand. I used that stuff when I worked at bodyshop after high school. I think we used grease and wax remover to get it off. We tried it and went back to a can of flat black. Much easier to use flat, go light and you wont gum your paper