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  View original topic: Type 4 Auto into T1 Bug?
donbarnes Wed Mar 30, 2016 9:12 pm

For medical reasons, I'm starting to consider the big job of converting my Baja to automatic. I've found a few old posts about converting a Bug IRS pan to the automatic from a Type 3, but I'm looking at a Type 4 412 within driving distance from me. Are there any differences between the T3 and T4 auto that would make the T4 conversion any more difficult than one from a T3? For example, I'm thinking the flywheel/torque converter from the T4 engine might not fit my T1 1600dp? Thanks..

donbarnes Thu Mar 31, 2016 5:17 am

It looks like if I buy a Type 4 for its auto I still have to find a rare unobtanium Type 3 auto flexplate...anyone know of anything else that doesn't interchange from the T4 to T3 auto setup?

heywebonya Thu Mar 31, 2016 6:11 am

Would it be more straight forward to replace the drive train and engine with a Subie platform? More available (although retro-fitting) and modern transmission components.

Best wishes, Jeff

donbarnes Thu Mar 31, 2016 9:14 am

I have a Subie engine in my rail, but the engine in my Baja is a brand new 1600. The issue is problems shifting the Baja due to diabetic numbness in my feet and thinking of making it a true auto. I haven't found any mention of anyone adapting the Subie automatic into a VW? I'm thinking I would be better off looking for a Type 3 donor car, because in addition to different flexplates/flywheels, it looks like the Type 4 may also have bigger CV joints..

heywebonya Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:31 am

I believe that SubaruGears offers a transmission flip set that would enable you to reverse the transmission, this may only be for manual.

The flexplate will be a "hen's teeth"hunt.


Best of luck and I would like to see this project move forward.

tripicana Thu Mar 31, 2016 11:06 am

There are like 18 type 3 and 1 type 4 flex plates in the classifieds...

donbarnes Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:46 pm

I'm abandoning the Type 4 idea and going to do a T3 to T1 conversion like this older post:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458452

donbarnes Thu Mar 31, 2016 3:16 pm

http://www.vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=27.msg186#msg186

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=40166

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/327908.jpg

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/327732.jpg

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/327730.jpg

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/327722.jpg

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/327722.jpg

tripicana Fri Apr 01, 2016 3:35 pm

Be aware that the automatics use two different length axles. The left side shorter one is harder to find.

donbarnes Sat Apr 02, 2016 5:51 am

I decided last night to abandon the idea and modify my clutch pedal instead, mostly because of how rare automatic parts and support are getting to find..

MacLeod Willy Sat Apr 02, 2016 6:25 am

donbarnes wrote: I decided last night to abandon the idea and modify my clutch pedal instead, mostly because of how rare automatic parts and support are getting to find..

I did it in my rail and it was still a lot of work but worth the effort.
I'm a C6 quad so I had no choice

tripicana Sat Apr 02, 2016 7:14 am

A hydraulic clutch might give you a softer pedal

oldschool5er Sat Apr 02, 2016 2:04 pm

I would just go with a T1 Semi-automatic should still be a few around. They are a little slow off the line if you start out in high but if you can shift with your arm still you can start out in low then it's not so slow. I had a 69 T-1 with one in it and abused it pretty hard. The only trouble would be to get all the bits and pieces with it. Gear shift with the switch, engine dual pump, etc. Flex plate might be hard. Maybe you could find a whole junker and switch it out. In fact there is one on Samba Classifieds in Conn. Whole car is $500

donbarnes Sat Apr 02, 2016 2:32 pm

Its not clutch stiffness thats an issue, I have a Kennedy Stage 1in my rail. I wouldn't even consider an Autostick because of its reputation for trouble and it kills the resale value. The T3 auto at least has a good rep for durability. The issue I'm having is tangling my feet up in the brake and clutch pedal. What I'm doing for now is I ordered the "Big Boy Clutch Extender" kit from the classifieds to get some distance between the two pedals, then I'm going to put a slightly larger head on the clutch pedal, probably from a fullsize Ford truck,with it shifted as far to the left as feasible. I think I will be OK if I just get some space between the two pedals :)

donbarnes Wed Jun 22, 2016 8:33 am

It took me a while because I was working on my sons truck at the same time, but I now have a fully automatic Subaru powered street rail with T3 auto :). Haven't driven it much because nobody home right now to help me bleed the rear brakes back out, but so far its performing flawlessly, it actually seems peppier and more responsive than it did with the manual in it. I would say the biggest challenge about the conversion is that I was determined it would be dual mount, that the manual and its pieces will bolt right back in it without any further mods..



tripicana Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:06 pm

Looks good, nice job

GoMopar440 Fri Jun 24, 2016 12:22 am

I really like that heel stop you put in front of your pedals. I might just have to borrow that idea for my rail since I need to relocate my pedals soon anyway.

donbarnes Fri Jun 24, 2016 11:49 am

GoMopar440 wrote: I really like that heel stop you put in front of your pedals. I might just have to borrow that idea for my rail since I need to relocate my pedals soon anyway.

I don't even remember now what that was, think it was just some random piece of metal I had... don't seem to really need it now without the clutch pedal there anymore :)

GoMopar440 Fri Jun 24, 2016 10:25 pm

On my rail my feet always seem to get out of position when riding around, making it difficult to hit the clutch and brake with the same feel and amount of force every time. That little heel stopper looks like it would solve the issue nicely. :wink:

Multi69s Sun Jun 26, 2016 3:00 pm

Great job, glad you got it going. May I make a suggestion? If you ever pull the trans out, put Helicoil or Time-Serts in the trans bellhousing mount holes. I found out the hard way that the case is very soft, and the threads tend to disappear. It's not an issue when the trans is bolted in, they just don't like to be removed and installed repeatedly.



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