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cutter57 Thu Apr 28, 2016 1:59 pm

I know I am dredging up an old topic, but I am refubishing the fuel tank, hoses, vent lines and cannister of my 75 Bus. I ran across a thread started by webwalker some years ago, in which the appropriate activated charcoal for the cannisters was discussed. Apparently, not all activated charcoals are created equal ( in regards to handling vapors), and the best charcoal is not sold in small amounts. I saw where it was suggested that someone should buy the 55 lbs of extruded activated charcoal designed for these cannisters and sell it to others who want some, so I called General Carbon Company and did just that.

I should have it to me by May 10th. My cost is $2.00 per pound plus whatever shipping costs. I am willing to supply anyone else who wants some at my cost and whatever it costs to get it to you. You can message me here or email me, [email protected], if you would like some. I am not interested in making a profit, but would like to recoup only my cost to supply you.

If no one is interested, no sweat...I know people with fish tanks, too. :wink:

airschooled Thu Apr 28, 2016 2:21 pm

Hi there!

I know this topic has been discussed, but you did the right thing by posting a new thread, since I think you're the first one to actually bite the bullet and buy some of the stuff. :D

Since different years used different canister configurations, it would probably help you out to see what the different sizes require, then go from there. Anybody know the volume requirements of each size/year? I would absolutely be willing to pay a bit to refill my spare canister.

Robbie

Wasted youth Thu Apr 28, 2016 2:28 pm

Put me down for 10 pounds.

Curtquarquesso Thu Apr 28, 2016 3:32 pm

That's an awesome offer. Thanks for doing this. I ended up using some regular charcoal available at Pet Supermarket. Is there a ginormous difference between this stuff and the stuff you're buying? I know the stuff I bought looked fairly similar to the saturated charcoal I dumped out of the thing, so it's got that going for it.

While we're on the subject, does anyone have a sure-fire way to reseal the canister after you cut it open? I've got the cylindrical type canister. My first attempt to seal it up was with a 1/4" diameter bead around the rim made of that two-part epoxy putty that comes in a little malleable log. Taped it up and clamped it hard together for a day while it set, and a few weeks after the fix, it popped open. I think I just don't have enough surface area to make a strong bond given the force of the internal spring.

Should I resort to a mechanical fix, or is there a better chemical/adhesive solution that's worked for ya'll?

Wasted youth Thu Apr 28, 2016 3:53 pm

I wondered the same thing, but on a different project. I was thinking about trying ABS pipe dope. It is the black goo used to put ABS sewer pipes together. Available at most hardware stores/home improvement stores.

Curtquarquesso Thu Apr 28, 2016 4:00 pm

Wasted youth wrote: I wondered the same thing, but on a different project. I was thinking about trying ABS pipe dope. It is the black goo used to put ABS sewer pipes together. Available at most hardware stores/home improvement stores.

Heh. That was exactly the stuff I was thinking to try next. There's a thin MEK based product I use for acrylic and bakelite and similar plastics, as well as a thicker product for similar applications. I have access to SCIGRIP brand dopes at school that I can experiment with without buying outright. I'd like to do a nice neat job where's there's not an excessive amount of glue all around the edge, or hardware sticking out every which way. Preferably, I'd like it to look relatively un-tampered with, but I'll end up doing whatever works I suppose.

SGKent Thu Apr 28, 2016 5:51 pm

do you have the 1978 and later style unit? The 76-77 style has little fingers that hold the top on. 1978 style is still available NOS but they are outrageously expensive now.

ivwshane Thu Apr 28, 2016 5:57 pm

I've got a 77 I'd be interested in refilling the canister if we can figure out how much it needs.

airschooled Thu Apr 28, 2016 6:00 pm

Curtquarquesso wrote: Wasted youth wrote: I wondered the same thing, but on a different project. I was thinking about trying ABS pipe dope. It is the black goo used to put ABS sewer pipes together. Available at most hardware stores/home improvement stores.

Heh. That was exactly the stuff I was thinking to try next. There's a thin MEK based product I use for acrylic and bakelite and similar plastics, as well as a thicker product for similar applications. I have access to SCIGRIP brand dopes at school that I can experiment with without buying outright. I'd like to do a nice neat job where's there's not an excessive amount of glue all around the edge, or hardware sticking out every which way. Preferably, I'd like it to look relatively un-tampered with, but I'll end up doing whatever works I suppose.


The effectiveness of a solvent-based glue will depend on the solvent, the plastic compound, and the surface area of the bond. What year canister do you have, and how do you plan on breaking it open?

cutter57 Thu Apr 28, 2016 8:58 pm

I read an old post from 2010 where someone measured the weight of the pellets in his canister, and he reported 1.6 lbs or 6 cups of pellets. Of course, the canisters were not all the same size. When I break into mine, I will weigh the pellets in it. Looks like I'm buying a scale now, too.

vwwestyman Fri Apr 29, 2016 5:19 am

For those with a plastic canister, have you tried a plastic welding kit?

It is sorta like a big soldering iron with a flat end, and came with black plastic "filler rods."

You just heat up the iron, and use it to melt the plastic and the filler rods and melt it all together. You can use the end of the rod to shape the plastic a little if you need to.

I haven't gotten into a charcoal canister, but I have I used this to fix the cracked water tank outlets on my '78.

Tcash Fri Apr 29, 2016 10:35 am

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...highlight=

wihr Fri Apr 29, 2016 10:46 am

I have never replaced mine in 385,000 miles and 46 years. Am I missing something?

WW

Tcash Fri Apr 29, 2016 10:59 am

wihr wrote: I have never replaced mine in 385,000 miles and 46 years. Am I missing something?

WW

IIRC replacement is recommended every 30K miles.
Tcash

wihr Fri Apr 29, 2016 11:13 am

"IIRC replacement is recommended every 30K miles."
Tcash

Yes, I read that, but is it for emissions or for performance?

WW

jtauxe Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:31 pm

ivwshane wrote: I've got a 77 I'd be interested in refilling the canister if we can figure out how much it needs.
Math is your friend, here.

ROCKOROD71 Sat Apr 30, 2016 8:12 am

I will take a few pounds as well. Away for the weekend and on the phone but will contact when back to civilization. You are a hero for doing this! Thank you!

WendyArmbuster Sat Apr 30, 2016 9:34 am

I have long wanted a plastic welder. This may be my reason to get one. I have been reading about using a Dremel Tool as a spin welder as well. It all depends on what kind of plastic is used on a '78 canister.

Abscate Sat Apr 30, 2016 11:37 am

wihr wrote: I have never replaced mine in 385,000 miles and 46 years. Am I missing something?

WW

If you arent smelling gas fumes from a half full tank on a hot day, you arent missing anything.

The 30k recommendation probably wasnt based on too much science - give how clean a fuel system usually is with respect to vapors, Im not surprised activated carbon would last forever.

Most modern cars don't have a replacement schedule for the carbon canister that I know of.

ivwshane Sat Apr 30, 2016 4:16 pm

jtauxe wrote: ivwshane wrote: I've got a 77 I'd be interested in refilling the canister if we can figure out how much it needs.
Math is your friend, here.

What math would that be?



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