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Wed Mar 17, 2004 5:02 pm

I have an area of rust perforation in the upper surface of the cargo door rocker opening that needs repair. Fortunately the cargo floor itself and the inner rocker are just a bit surface rusty in spots. Once I get this area welded up, I want to convert all the rust and seal the area against future corrosion.

This cavity appears to me to be completely closed. What suggestions to you all have about how to get in and apply POR-15 and/or waxoyl after the welding is done to prevent future problems?

I took care of this issue on my oval by getting in through the rear heat duct aperture with the nozzle of a garden sprayer. I don't think I can do that here.

Thanks.

Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:47 pm

Whatever you do, don't do it like a friend of mine did (reall, HAD done. After restoring his 67 panel, he wanted to make sure the rockers didn't rust out again any time soon. He took it to the body shop that did the paint and told them what he wanted. When he came back to pick it up, they had drilled three 1 1/2" holes in the rockers, on the OUTSIDE and sealed them up with the ugliest black plastic plugs you ever saw. After he regained his composure, he asked them why they hadn't drilled the holes on the INSIDE of the rocker panel. The guy looked underneath and said "Yeah, I guess we could have done that."

Thu Mar 18, 2004 10:00 am

Yes, I'm thinking about a hole at one end, sealed with a plastic plug (door hinge screw plug) afterward. I could insert a little sprayer for the rustproofing substance through that, and withdraw the hose as it was spraying out.

I wish there was an easier way, but I guess there is not.

Thu Mar 18, 2004 6:51 pm

Waxoil!
A guy who restores old Porsches, Jags and Rolls swore by it. just buy the proper sprayer and drill some holes in the proper area and your gold.

Thu Mar 18, 2004 7:49 pm

Been thinking of this too - you could make a small hole (1/2 inch) on the inner sill in an easy access area for a long wax nozzle (waxoyl) OR make a similar hole through the cargo floor (at the rear of the bus under the seats for example) to insert the long nozzle through. Both sealed with a plastic / rubber bung. Both hidden and out of sight.

Cant help think the wheelarch is not good as it has a spray of water when driven in the rain which may actually let in water..

Thx,
Al

Thu Mar 18, 2004 7:52 pm

trouble is, there's already plenty of rust in there already. it just hasn't bubbled on the outside yet. you might slow it down though.

Thu Mar 18, 2004 8:03 pm

No access is not a problem in my case. I have a good size hole to cut out and repair right in the center of the top threshold, plus two quarter sized holes on either end. So I can get in there and get all the flakes out, apply Extend or POR-15, do my welding, and then get the repaired areas remotely with the sprayer dealie.

Thanks for the posts!

Chris

Fri Mar 19, 2004 8:13 am

Major Woody wrote: ... apply Extend or POR-15, [then?] do my welding, ...

I tried this procedure before! Then during the "welding", FOOOF! A "nice" fire started inside the cavity! :shock: Funny, though serious, trying to blow the fire out through a little hole! #-o

Think your process through. I believe the plastic plug is a safer way to go about it.

Good luck! 8)

Fri Mar 19, 2004 11:04 pm

And I allways thought your avatar was a campfire :shock:

Sat Mar 20, 2004 7:22 am

ritchiet002 wrote: And I allways thought your avatar was a campfire :shock:

Oh, the strories I could tell.... :oops:

Actually it is a camp fire and if you look closely I am "pulling" fire right out of it! :shock:

Just a single one out of my bag of tricks! :wink:

Sat Mar 20, 2004 2:23 pm

You must have liked the Aussie outback scene in the movie "The Right Stuff" :wink: