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Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:44 pm

Finally got around to working on the bus this weekend. I pulled the motor to get to the gas tank. Very glad I did. I had the tank boiled about 16 years ago. The shop I brought it to drilled five holes in the tank, cleaned out the inside, sprayed some sort of coating on the inside and then welded the holes close. I do not recall what they coated the inside of the tank with. When I pulled it out this weekend (had been sitting for 11 years with some gas) I noticed that the tank had been leaking in quite a few places :shock: . Two of the holes that were welded up have some leakage. Also the fuel sender/float was leaking through the top. I think I must have reinstalled it without a seal ](*,) , going to have to do some research on what I’m missing. I feel very lucky that I never had a fire. I’m going to take my time with the new tank I bought and make sure this doesn’t happen again. :oops: Some pictures... sorry they are sideways.

Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:16 pm

:oops: A new tank is $350.. cheap insurance. would not try a repair/coating on a piece of sponge that tank is.

also use gates barricade fuel line- maybe a spin on fuel filter Blazecut automatic fire system and get the vent line behind the spare tire changed.

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Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:59 pm

I bought a used a fuel tank already. I looked for the vent line in the picture you posted but I don't think my bus has that one.

Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:30 am

I purchased a used tank a couple of years ago. Yesterday I pulled it out of storage and compared it to my old tank. Looks like it will work. I plan on cleaning it out the "new" tank this weekend. Is it highly recommended to seal the tank for longevity purposes? Or clean it and run it? Also, does anyone have a process to detect any leaks? Just fill it up with a fluid and wait for wet spots?

Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:26 am

Don't use any sealer or coating unless it's full of holes, too much potential for trouble later, bare metal treated with phosphoric acid is a better choice.

Here's how to deal with that tank http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=378770 that one looks clean enough you may just get away without the muriatic acid, the phosphoric will likely take the worst of that off by itself.

Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:36 am

look in the yellow pages for Radiator shops in your area. Call one and ask them if they hot tank gas tanks. If they do they can hot tank it, acid dip it, and test it for leaks. Be sure to replace the screen / sock in the bottom when you mount it.

I would not coat a tank. Some people have no problems, and others have issues like you do with your original one, or worse if the whole inside peels off and collapses. A tank that is kept full of gas most of its life will last almost forever as to rust on the inside.

Wed Aug 24, 2016 11:09 am

Seal the outlet and vents of the tank and dump a gallon or two of diesel and swirl it around and then leave it sitting in various positions for a few hours each so the Diesel has a chance to touch all the surfaces. The Diesel will find it way out and leave a wet area on the exterior if there are any bad spots in the tank.

Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:37 am

Busdaddy, thanks for the link. I have read most of the tank refresh thread. I'm also reading the Bus fire thread, currently hunting down new fuel line, vent line and inlet rubber.

SGKent, I have taken your advice and called a few shops. I have located a shop that can do what you have suggested. If they do not coat the tank after this process, do I need to worry about flash rust? I will not have gas in the tank for an unknown period of time. Any suggestions on how to store the tank in the mean time?

I was planning on buying a new sock and outlet for peace of mind. The one that came out was very clean but I was worried about reusing the gaskets.

Wildthings, thanks for the suggestion.

Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:47 am

Kwoggy wrote: do I need to worry about flash rust? I will not have gas in the tank for an unknown period of time. Any suggestions on how to store the tank in the mean time.
Pour about a cup of ATF in and slosh it around, then drain if you wish and tape up the openings, the ATF will mix with the gas later like it never even happened.

Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:48 am

:oops:

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid?

Fri Aug 26, 2016 11:04 am

Kwoggy wrote: :oops:

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid?

Yes! It has the anti-corrosive properties of an oil coat, but is completely digestible by fuel injectors and Volkswagen engine combustion. :D

It's remarkable stuff, really…

Robbie

Sat Feb 11, 2017 5:20 pm

I have the whole thread and have learned a lot. Thanks for all the information. I have read that gasoline containing ethanol absorbs moisture from the air and since water is heaver that gas it sinks to the bottom of the tank causing rust. Is that true?

My 1970 Type 2 gas tank developed a small leak which caused a strong gas odor in the garage. I drained the gas and removed the tank but have had a hard time seeing the extent of the rust because of baffles in the tank. My son has a small "wall camera" with a flex end that should give me a better view. There is a recessed area surrounding the outlet tube. The tube extends up about 1" so any water in the tank fills that depression. There is a lot of runs in that small area which I can see. I am considering POR 15 because I think it could prevent any further rusting due to water absorption because of ethanol gas. What are your thoughts?

BTW I found the POR 15 directions on-line at http://qr.absolutecoatings.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/FuelTankSealer.pdf It looks like a long process but most of the reviews on Amazon are very positive.

I will try to post some photos. Two are inside the tank showing the rusty depressed area and the folded over internal screen filter. The third one is of the inside of the tube sender showing rust on the rod that the float (right side) rides up and down on. The two bright lines are fine wires that touch contacts in the float. As the float rises the resistance goes down down causing the gas gauge to go up. I probably could have fixed this one but considering the difficulty of getting to it I bought a new one for $40.

Sat Feb 11, 2017 5:57 pm

there are a few POR horror stories on here. don't do it.

Sat Feb 11, 2017 6:08 pm

alman72 wrote: there are a few POR horror stories on here. don't do it.
Agreed, if you must coat (only due to pinholes) use the Bill Hirsch product, it's been proven for decades and can be removed with the correct solvent unlike the urethane POR stuff.

Sat Feb 11, 2017 11:53 pm

Kwoggy, is that an old Sears floor jack? I had a metallic green jack just like that 35 years ago. A dickhead buddy of mine left it under his Bus in an apartment carport and somebody roped it. I told him it would get stolen, and he replied "Oh, I don't think anyone will take it without the handle" (because he had the foresight to put the handle in his apartment). Yet another reason I learned to never loan tools.

Sun Feb 12, 2017 12:07 am

Yeah, absolutely do not use POR15 to coat fuel tanks. I did it once on a lawn tractor and it failed within a year, filling the fuel system with this horrible black sludge. As others have said, It's best to just acid flush it and run it.