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  View original topic: Steering suddenly goes "notchy" and "groany".
stuming Tue Aug 23, 2016 6:23 am

Hi all

Working from home today in the UK, covering US hours, so I thought I'd grab some lunch and take the camper out. Pulling out from my on street parking the steering was making groaning sounds, and I noticed at slow speeds, when I was putting pressure on the wheel, it has started clicking and I can feel some kind of movement through the floor in the cab with my left foot when it's flat on the cab floor.

It was fine a week ago. Crawled under the bus but as I'm on my own couldn't really waggle things about. Got some photos. Should I post them up for you guys to look at or should I wait until someone can be in the cab and move the steering with me underneath?

Sorry; I know that's not much to go on. Just want a pointer as to things that might have broken or come loose.

Cheers

Stuart

sjbartnik Tue Aug 23, 2016 8:07 am

Rubber steering coupler might be a good first suspect.

Tcash Tue Aug 23, 2016 8:27 am

Types of things to look for.







Good Luck
Tcash

stuming Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:08 am

Thanks for the pointers guys. I *think* I may have found the issue:



So how big of a pain in the arse is replacing a steering coupling?

Stuart

Tom Powell Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:28 am

stuming wrote: Thanks for the pointers guys. I *think* I may have found the issue:



So how big of a pain in the arse is replacing a steering coupling?

Stuart

It's a slight pain. The problem is the space available for removing and reinstalling the nuts and bolts. My '69 camper had castlenuts and cotter keys. The job will be easier with lock nuts. The biggest pain is getting a box end wrench onto the bolts to loosen the nuts with a socket and ratchet. It will be easier with the wheels off the ground and jack stands under the axle.

CAVEATS:
There are many poor quality couplings for sale that are rubbery and fail soon. Spend the money and buy a good coupling. Use new lock nuts.

There are many threads on replacing steering boxes and coupling quality.

Aloha
tp

busdaddy Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:42 am

Not hard to get at if it's a late 74+ bus we are discussing, the floor plate lifts up on those for easy access.

sjbartnik Tue Aug 23, 2016 1:29 pm

I just did this on my car. Do NOT get the cheap couplings. Also don't get the expensive coupling that says "premium quality" on it, it still flexes too much.

Get the OE VW coupling. Same price or within $10 of the "premium quality" one and it's the real deal.

Tom Powell Tue Aug 23, 2016 2:09 pm

Tom Powell wrote: BerneseMtnDog wrote: I bought my coupler from Wolfsburg West. The aftermarket ones can be bent into a taco shell shape practically. The OG ones are very stiff and have "VW" molded into the rubber.

Steve

There are several posts on TheSamba regarding steering coupler quality. CoolAir in the UK has this one:
http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_by_Vehicle~Ba...ng_TQ.html
I don't have any experience with their product and can't vouch for it, but the price is about right for a quality steering coupler. A VW or an elephant molded into the rubber is usually the sign of a quality coupler. Fabric in the middle, between the molded rubber layers, and steel bushings are also signs of quality

Many places are periodically out of stock for the quality couplers.

Aloha
tp

stuming Wed Aug 24, 2016 1:28 am

Thanks guys

So, I've used 2 of the three sites below before. How can I tell which is the "right" product?

http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_by_Vehicle~Ba...ng_TQ.html
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/211415417/steering-coupling-t2-68-79-ssp-product/#
http://www.justkampers.com/catalog/product/view/id...1967-1979/

Cheers!

Wasted youth Wed Aug 24, 2016 4:31 am

Be mindful of the horn wire, if applicable.

sjbartnik Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:14 am

stuming wrote: Thanks guys

So, I've used 2 of the three sites below before. How can I tell which is the "right" product?

http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_by_Vehicle~Ba...ng_TQ.html
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/211415417/steering-coupling-t2-68-79-ssp-product/#
http://www.justkampers.com/catalog/product/view/id...1967-1979/

Cheers!

I don't know for sure since none of those sites give any manufacturer info, but my understanding of VW Heritage is they are most likely to have OE-quality parts. You may wish to contact them and ask about the origin of that part.

Whoever originally made them for VW is still apparently making them as the one I got had all the original VW molded text, just with the VW logo and part number rubbed off (common here if the part is sold through an aftermarket channel rather than a VW dealer).

Here's what it should look like:



The one I got looks like this:



And the crappy one I replaced looked like this:

[/img]

Tom Powell Wed Aug 24, 2016 1:33 pm

I replaced the steering coupler on my '69 camper with one from German Supply.
http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=17656&cat=&page=1

But they are presently out of stock. It was out of stock when I ordered and it went on back order and I had to wait for about three months before it arrived. Not much of a problem for me as the OG coupling was worn not shredded.

Here's a thread which has information about installation and quality.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...mp;start=0

Aloha
tp

Tom Powell Wed Aug 24, 2016 2:02 pm

Here's a photo of the coupling with the elephant on it and it has the VW logo too. Reputed to be good quality.

asiab3 wrote: I picked up this "German" coupler from a local parts house today. They said the brand was German when I asked them on the phone. It has the HARD rubber feel to it, and a VW logo, but it's also got an elephant logo stamped in to it. I've never seen this logo before. Anyone seen one of these?




Aloha
tp

stuming Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:18 am

Hi all

Finally got the parts to do the repair plus the the time to do it. So removed the old bolts and coupling using the "clamp the spanner behind the clutch pedal or brake pedal" technique. Thanks for that suggestion.

The issue now is it appears that the gap between the steering column and steering box is too great to bolt the replacements in.

Here are the photos:

Old coupling removed:



Old and new side by side:



Gap between steering column and steering box



So obviously my question is: there was a coupling there, why is the gap so big that it looks like I can't bolt the thing together? I have some spacer washers about 2mm thick but things don't seem to be quite right.

Thanks

Stuart[/img]

Tom Powell Mon Sep 12, 2016 12:30 pm

Push the steering wheel down from inside the bus or pull it down while you're underneath. Don't turn the steering wheel or the coupler. You may need a helper to push the steering wheel down from inside while you insert the bolts. BTDT

Aloha
tp

Tcash Mon Sep 12, 2016 12:38 pm

What year bus?
Post some pix of the steering column, steer column mount and under the horn button.

Tcash

stuming Tue Sep 13, 2016 12:15 am

Thanks guys

I'm always a bit reluctant to starts pushing and bending things. I'll get my daughter to gently lean on the steering tonight and see how it goes.

Oh, and looking at my Bentley, I know it mentions spring washers, but these are replaced by the modern lock nuts I've got right? Plus I've got these 2 or 3 mm spacer washers: on the coupler I just took off there were only two installed. Should I use all four and where should they go?

Cheers

Stuart

Tom Powell Tue Sep 13, 2016 2:00 am

stuming wrote: Thanks guys

I'm always a bit reluctant to starts pushing and bending things. I'll get my daughter to gently lean on the steering tonight and see how it goes.

Oh, and looking at my Bentley, I know it mentions spring washers, but these are replaced by the modern lock nuts I've got right? Plus I've got these 2 or 3 mm spacer washers: on the coupler I just took off there were only two installed. Should I use all four and where should they go?

Cheers

Stuart

IIRC The whole steering shaft and coupling spring up slightly when the nuts are off the bolts. You should be able to pull it down while you are underneath and put in a bolt and start a nut, but a helper inside may spare your fingers. A washer under the bolt head and another under the lock nut. Don't forget the ground wire for the horn.

Aloha
tp



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