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  View original topic: What size engine to build (from scratch)
kryslaurelle Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:08 pm

I almost hate to post this because there's already a million threads on engine combos, etc., but I'm really lost as to what size engine to build. I currently have a 1600 SP in my '68 bug, but the case has an irreparable crack. Also, my dad wants my old engine for his future Baja project, so I have to build something from scratch.

I would like something with a bit more get-up-and-go, and can easily cruise around 70-75mph with the ability to still overtake other cars when/if needed. I don't plan on taking it on any interstate trips, but it would be nice to get around California for different car shows, get-togethers, etc. It also has to be able to get up the 2-mile 7% grade between home and work.

At this point I'm thinking 90.5mm pistons, so I guess my three main choices are 1776cc, 2007cc, or 2110cc? At this point I'm kind of leaning toward 2007, but I'm concerned about overheating issues.

I'm planning on dual carbs (Webers or Dellortos), and no heater boxes. I haven't built an engine before, but im hoping I might be able to find someone to stand over my shoulder and let me know if I'm doing something wrong! Thanks guys!

66brm Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:11 pm

I would go for a known good combo, off the top of my head a 2110 with W120 and cbs new panchito's and a good merged header, should pull to around 6000ish and still be very tractable around town with 44idf's

Glenn Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:18 pm

Stroke it for torque.

Go 2180 with a 82 stroke and thick wall 92s.

MURZI Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:34 pm

66brm wrote: I would go for a known good combo, off the top of my head a 2110 with W120 and cbs new panchito's and a good merged header, should pull to around 6000ish and still be very tractable around town with 44idf's

This is great combo. Add 1.25's if you want to increase the rpm a bit. W120 is great street cam.

ALB Mon Nov 07, 2016 8:20 pm

This is a very loaded question, as you didn't mention the budget. For something with just a little more zip, a 1776 or thickwall 1835 with W100 or W110 cam, stock dual port heads, 8 1/4 or 8 1/2:1 compression (depending on cam) and a 1 3/8" merged header (1 1/2" with the W110) would be quite the step up from the 1600 sp, give 75 to 85 or 90hp, still have great bottom end/lower midrange and not break the bank. If all you've driven is your stock 1600sp this engine will be a ton of fun! Add a 74mm crank, 5.325" (Porsche 356 length) rods with the W100 and you're probably getting close to the limit of the stock heads, but it'll pull like a freight train 'till it runs out of steam (5,000?rpm). Port the heads, swap the W100 for the W110 (or maybe even the W120 :twisted: ), add some 1.25 rockers and now it'll pull to almost 6,000rpm or a little more (again, depending on the cam). From here more displacement will require 40x35 ported heads and 44's instead of 40 IDF's or Del's.

A full flow filter, while not an absolute must have, is a very good idea, as it will exend engine life, so the extra cost is more than worth it. Do the doghous shroud, cooler and fan as well. You will need more air intake into the engine compartment, as a '68 won't come close to satisfying the new engine's air requirements. A later engine louvered engine lid and maybe even some holes in the engine compartment sides may be needed.

As usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al

modok Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:46 pm

2127cc

kryslaurelle Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:00 pm

ALB wrote: This is a very loaded question, as you didn't mention the budget. For something with just a little more zip, a 1776 or thickwall 1835 with W100 or W110 cam, stock dual port heads, 8 1/4 or 8 1/2:1 compression (depending on cam) and a 1 3/8" merged header (1 1/2" with the W110) would be quite the step up from the 1600 sp, give 75 to 85 or 90hp, still have great bottom end/lower midrange and not break the bank. If all you've driven is your stock 1600sp this engine will be a ton of fun! Add a 74mm crank, 5.325" (Porsche 356 length) rods with the W100 and you're probably getting close to the limit of the stock heads, but it'll pull like a freight train 'till it runs out of steam (5,000?rpm). Port the heads, swap the W100 for the W110 (or maybe even the W120 :twisted: ), add some 1.25 rockers and now it'll pull to almost 6,000rpm or a little more (again, depending on the cam). From here more displacement will require 40x35 ported heads and 44's instead of 40 IDF's or Del's.

A full flow filter, while not an absolute must have, is a very good idea, as it will exend engine life, so the extra cost is more than worth it. Do the doghous shroud, cooler and fan as well. You will need more air intake into the engine compartment, as a '68 won't come close to satisfying the new engine's air requirements. A later engine louvered engine lid and maybe even some holes in the engine compartment sides may be needed.

As usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al

Thank you, this is very helpful! I may have to think about increasing the air intake more... I'd prefer to keep the stock decklid. Dare I ask, would stand-offs work?

As for budget, I'd prefer to stay under $4k. It'd be even better if I could stay under $3k-3500, but I would also like a reliable, quality engine.



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