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Thu Nov 17, 2016 5:17 pm

I have made many posts. I have emailed many guru's. I have done everything I was told and poured money into this POS!!!!!! :evil: No positive results

I will not go into detail but I have replaced everything but the engine itself at it still runs like crap and will not idle. I think my mistake was the EMPI carb.

My main question is advancing timing. If I advance timing about 8 to 10 degrees (16 @ idle and 42 @ high rpm) it runs smoother and will idle. Oh and by the way I had to back out both adjustment screws on this POS EMPI to even get there. Again my main question is will advancing the timing that much hurt the engine or cause it to run hot? If not I will leave it. I do have access to a quality rebuilt solex carb for $240 but I am sick of spending money on this thing.

Thu Nov 17, 2016 7:27 pm

Sorry bud. Your second thread on the same topic which should be in a different forum. Go to the engine forum and spend a few hours going thru the thousands of posts, you'll either find what you are looking for there, or it can't be found.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=286686

Thu Nov 17, 2016 8:45 pm

Try removing that junky air filter cover and see how it runs. Turn the cover upside down so all the filter is exposed.

Thu Nov 17, 2016 8:52 pm

It's probably not the carb. A $99 Empi carb has my buggy running sweet, but it did take some work tuning it. In your other thread, you suggest the motor may be worn out. Have you checked the compression?

Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:16 am

Hi bncjr8,

Let me preface this by saying I am one of the last people on here that would be qualified to give you technical engine advice. However, I am wondering if you have taken the time to have a a qualified and experienced air cooled VW mechanic actually take a LOOK at your problem, first hand? I have no idea where you are located, but it may be worth the effort to take some time to see if there is such a mechanic nearby, or at least, an air cooled VW club. What would you have to lose?

Fri Nov 18, 2016 7:58 am

Which carb, and specifically, what problems are you having? Can't tell from this post...

Best,
Thom

Fri Nov 18, 2016 3:32 pm

A new carb on a worn out engine is like putting Mothers polish on a turd. Before you go any further verify the engine is sound mechanically, that there are no vacuum leaks and then go from there. Is the fuel good? Do you have a filter in place?

brad

Fri Nov 18, 2016 6:41 pm

That is my fear Brad, the motor is retired. I have no old school VW mechanics where I live so I am on my own. Any advice besides the obvious because I have tried it?

There are only three things I have not replaced, fuel pump, intake manifold, intake heads. If there is an intake leak that should fix it. I have the stock VW intake that someone cut off the heat risers, would that cause an intake leak? It is really hard to trouble shoot with the WD40 sprayed on intake because it will not idle and when I static time @ 10 deg BTDC it spits, sputters, backfires and just sounds low tune if that makes sense, it has headers and no muffler. So when I try to use a timing light numbers on the pulley are jumping and hard to read. I have changed plugs several time just to make sure I was not fouling them. Like I said if I advance timing it does smooth out but I am afraid of it running hot. Tim did say his solex carbs are like night and day compared to Empi but before I spend that money I want someone to tell me a worn motor will not cause the issues I am dealing with. I don’t care if it has low compression or burns gas, it is just a toy and at this point I am thinking of getting it running and selling.

I am considering replacing the empi carb with a rebuilt solex but if the motor is shot I am done and do not want to waste my money. That is what I do not know.

If I advance timing about 10 deg (17@idle) it does run smoother but I do not want to run it hot. I only plan to drive it maybe 10 miles at a time and only weekends during summer. Just something to ride to work on Friday and maybe around a little on weekends, not an every day driver or hard off road use. Would it be ok under those conditions to advance timing? The motor is exposed (not enclosed) in a rail and has an oil cooler. I could also install a fan on the oil cooler if that would help.

Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:30 pm

Well if it's a POS run it how it runs!
But that much timing is going to do Some detonating.

What carb are we talking? Single carbs need heat you will never be proud of how any single runs without manifold heat.

It really sounds like you may have a plugged jet. Adding timing to make something run is almost always a bandaid for poor state of tune.

Fri Nov 18, 2016 11:41 pm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...highlight=

Same guy, same carb, different thread

Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:16 am

bncjr8,

I echo some of the previous posts; it appears that you have created several different threads (I count 4) on the same subject since September. I know how frustrating it can be, but I also know that those that want to offer advice here can have their patience stretched only so thin.

Please, let me ask, where you do you live? If you can post your location, there may be a chance that others can help steer you in the direction of either a decent VW mechanic, or possibly an air cooled VW club in your area. If it takes loading your rail (there is a specific forum section for rails, just so you know, HBB Off-road) on a trailer and hauling it down the road in order to have someone qualified to check it out, so be it; I have had to take that tack myself at times. These forums can be a valuable tool, but I have a feeling in your case, someone with the correct know-how will have to put their eyes on your problem.

You blame your POS, maybe the fault lies within.

Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:32 am

If the engine has low compression, if it burns a bunch of oil and is tired it doesn't matter how good of a carb you put on. It won't run right if the motor is in poor shape.

When you tune up a car the LAST thing you do is touch the carb. Everything else must be in good working order and properly adjusted before you even consider looking at the carb.

Advance the timing till the car will idle and then spray the intake and look for leaks. The cut off heat risers shouldn't cause a leak but the intake may be rusted out between the riser and the intake tube so spray there also.

when you advance the timing to 10* and rev it up what is the total advance? IF it is under or around 32* you will be fine. I've actually tried 34* and never saw a huge rise in head temps.

brad

Until everything else is ruled out, keep the carb you have.

Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:09 pm

The carb does not have manifold heat and it is likely there is an intake leak. Based on a quick review of your threads and my experiences, slow down and run through the many pieces of a good advice that have been offered.

BTW, where are you located, there are probably many VW enthusiasts nearby and just don't know it.

"It is a poor musician that blames his instrument"

Sat Nov 19, 2016 9:54 pm

I was wrong. Seven threads on the same topic.
None of them in the best forum for the subject at hand.

To the OP:Lest you think I don't want to help, please refer to the link to searches I've put on at least two of the seven threads you have on this same, very uncomplicated issue.

Near as I can tell the advice you have taken has been selective and your preferred solutions are of the bolt on variety. If you have underlying issues, as several folks have repeatedly told you, none of that stuff matters. Get back to basics; I don't see that you've done a compression check. I do see that you mention that you think "the motor may be too worn out" but you don't indicate why you think that.

If you really want help, provide complete info, don't blame your parts or your tools, follow the forum rules and please for the luvvagod find the engine forum (where you have yet to post) and do some research there. Come back here for your dunebuggy/rail specific questions and you will find a very helpful crew.

I say this in the spirit of trying to help you. Now help yourself by taking the advice youve been given. Please no more posts here on this topic.

Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:07 pm

Don't zip tie the plug wires together, you can get inductive cross fire, and the motor will run like crap and eventually damage the pistons. Get some cheap plastic wire separators at your local flaps, or just let them hang.

Sun Nov 20, 2016 7:33 pm

Have not read all your posts under different titles but have you actually done a compression test to see what condition your engine is in? Do this if you have not and also do a vacuum check. Both compression meter and vacuum gauge can be bought cheaply or perhaps loaned out at an auto supply store.
Check valve adjustment and also check if all valves are opening and closing to verify cam has not gone flat.
You mentioned that you don't have anyone out there to help you so I would suggest you buy the book by JoHn Muir, How to keep your VW alive, A complete step by step procedure for the complete idiot. This is a very easy to read and entertaining book. It is like having an experienced mechanic guiding you.
Also are you sure that the carb is getting a clean supply of fuel? Is your tank full of crud and debris and clogging the tank filter?
One other thought did the svda distributor you bought have the electronic ignition or simple points? The reason I ask is that The pertronix III I tried had timing scatter. Went back to points.
Worst case scenario is rebuild your engine or buy a used engine from someone who wants to upgrade and make sure it
runs ok before you buy it.
You can change out that engine in less than an hour.
It's always something simple just sometimes hard to find.
The air cooled VW engine is a remarkably simple machine. Don't let this beat you.

Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:15 pm

Sorry for posting on same topic several times but they would seem to die and when I created new it would start back up again. Also sorry for posting in wrong category. I appreciate everyones input and I have learned a lot but I am new to this forum and not sure how to navigate properly yet.

I am in Phenix City AL about 10 miles from Columbus GA if anyone knows of a guru near me let me know.

I do plan to check intake leaks with the WD40 and do a compression test soon. I initially did not check for intake leaks because I replaced boots and gaskets and thought I should be ok.

Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:32 pm

All you have to do to revive your previous threads and keep one going is post on it. It goes to the top of the page and people can read updates and keep adding to it.

brad

Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:46 pm

Thanks I did not see an engine forum category as I was told to use

Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:53 pm

There appears to be an air cooled VW shop in Columbus, called Scumbugs of Columbus. For details, go to the top of this page under "Community" , Clubs, choose Georgia, then hit Search. Scroll down until you find it. There is a telephone number listed, and their Facebook page under Scumbugs seems active.