mpelaz |
Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:19 am |
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Regards from Spain!
Many months reading you, but this is my first post with lots of doubts!
I recently bought a beautyful yellow 1972 vw T2 Kombi, empty interiors only fronts and middle seats.
It was restored some years ago, so although it didn't run nor brake (it was stopped for 5 years), everything seemed to be good and healthy.
Always trying to save money (my wife doesn't aproove this purchase) I'm getting this Bus up step by step.
I have no place at home to get the engine out of the bus so heavy works are done on my local dealer: every minute is paid!
In these months, I've changed:
- Brakes: front disks, front pads, flexibles, drum shoes, master cylinder and brake fluid: now I can stop it.
- Steering: complete front rod, left and right complete arms with new joints. Now I can make turns!
- Engine and gearbox: points, fuel, filters, oils, timing, battery, heater cables: now it starts and I can drive it!
- Electrics: New high gauge cable direct from battery, bypass relays, light main switch, fixed some others
- Wheels: new 185R15 reinforced
While waiting for Spanish historic number plate, I've discovered some bad news that I'd want to ask here since you guys seem to know everything about this fantastic bus!
Let's go.
CLUTCH:
This is my current clutch:
It seems to be a 180mm beetle 1300 clutch on a 200 flywheel, am I wrong?
Sorry but I didn't take pictures of the gearbox side. Gearbox is 3 bar bus original.
This clutch is slipping a lot when hot. Undriveable on highway. Need change.
Clutch does a terrible rattle noise when the clutch pedal is released. Something is loosy inside there.
So, do I have to buy a 180 or 200mm clutch? Any of the next will work?
http://www.justkampers.com/vw-t2-bay-window-parts/...70-on.html
http://www.justkampers.com/vw-t2-bay-window-parts/...-1970.html
Is there any possibility to have something wrong since the engine was swapped matching a 1300 engine with a Bus gearbox, causing that rattle sound?
ENGINE:
It seems that sometime in the past, the engine was switched to an "AB" code one. Numbers doesn't match documentation. It should be a 1.600, but "AB" seems to be a 1.300 double port. Maybe a Beetle swap?
Last owner told me to use 98 RON fuel (!) so maybe it was tuned somehow.
Current compression is (1-2-3-4) 6.2-7-6.9-7.2. The engine starts perfect when cold (5ºC ambient) and gets 120km/h with no problem. So I'm in the doubt of opening it to convert to a 1.600 or bigger, without opening the case (if possible).
Carb is 31PICT3.
Standard (new) SVDA distributor and points, blue Bosch coil.
Exhaust seems to be a Beetle one, double out and pure wistle beetle sound.
Heater doesn't work at all, although cables are new and valves open and close well.
There's some fuel smell inside when driving.
Tins seem to be ok, dog house, bus style. Flaps seem to move ok. Thermostat not checked.
- IS it feasable for a 1.300 to run at 120km/h on a Bus? Or is it vitaminized?
- Is there any exterior signs to differentiate a 1.300 from a 1.600 or other kind of tunning?
- Is there a way to know if heads or cylinders were changed from 1.300 to any other stuff?
If i finally decide to upgrade it, this is what I was planning to do under 1.000€, let me know if I'm right!
- Get the engine out, disassemble heads and cylinders but not the case (if possible)
- Install new 88mm slip-in thick wall P&Cs. Q:Is it possible to do this without opening the case?
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylinder-Set-88mm-x-69mm-Slip-In-p/vw8800t1k.htm?CartID=1
- New 40x35.5 heads, as these: (link) Are they necessary? Can I reuse my 1300 heads without bore work?
http://shop.kaddieshack.com/KS-1000-40mm-x-355-Performance-Cylinder-Heads-CCd-pair-KS-1000.htm
- New heater boxes. Are BUS boxes different to beetle? May I buy any heater box for 1600 engine?
- New exhaust as simmilar as possible to original, as this:
http://shop.kaddieshack.com/EMPI-GT-2-Tip-Exhaust-System-Black-3417.htm
Would my 1.300 stock exhaust do the work or am I forced to upgrade it?
- New carb, as these dual 34 Solex:
http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3285.htm or dual Empi 34: http://shop.kaddieshack.com/DUAL-PORT-TYPE-1-EMPI-EPC-34-DUAL-CARBURETOR-KIT-47-7411.htm
Weber are made here in Spain but I'm unable to find them at a reasonable price.
- Ignition: Petronics II on my current new distributor. Do I have to change the coil?
- Will I need any other stuff as rockers, etc?
- What about oil and fuel pumps, do I have to mind them?
HEADLIGHTS
My Bus has old 3 screws convex Hella headlights with european P45 bulbs. Reflectors are dull and shadowed.
I didn't find H4 reflectors and I'm not sure about projection and legality for H4 + convex lenses, since they're not marked as "HC/R" (Halogen). Spanish legislation is fairly tough on this.
I didn't find either newer flat real-H4 headlights for 3 screws. Any suggestions on this, to have a real H4 headlight on 3 screws bus?
GEAR stick
Very loosy and sloopy. I select rear instead of 2nd sometimes.
Is it enaugh changing the rear gearbox coupling?
http://www.justkampers.com/vw-t2-bay-window-parts/...-1979.html
Wow, such a long firs post.
I'm glad just to be here, more yet if you can solve any of my questions :-)
Thanks a lot in advance guys!
KR from Spain,
mpelaz |
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Amskeptic |
Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:35 am |
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mpelaz wrote:
180mm clutch on a 200 flywheel slipping a lot when hot.
terrible rattle noise when the clutch pedal is released.
200mm clutch? 1300 engine with a Bus gearbox, causing that rattle sound?
You need a proper 200mm pressure plate. Rattle has to be figured out. Your three-armed pressure plate without the circular collar must have a guided release bearing. Does your transaxle have a sleeve over the input shaft where the release bearing glides? If it has a floating release bearing, the rattle might be because the release bearing is touching the arms.
mpelaz wrote:
- IS it feasable for a 1.300 to run at 120km/h on a Bus?
- Is there a way to know if heads or cylinders were changed from 1.300 to any other stuff?
A 1300 engine is not quite sufficient for highway driving with a later baywindow bus. A 1600 is fine. If you are a gentle driver, you can do OK with the 1300 as long as you realize that you have no margin of power. Can you see the gallery plugs on the crankcase? I would be interested to know if they are 8mm dia. versus 10mm.
mpelaz wrote:
GEAR stick
loosy and sloopy.
Is it enough changing the rear gearbox coupling?
We have no idea. You need to have someone at the shifter moving it from side to side and back and forth (gently) so you can track down slop.
Colin |
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mpelaz |
Wed Dec 07, 2016 3:48 am |
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Thanks a lot Colin for your answer.
Yeah, that makes sense.
Actually I have no pictures of the bellhousing so no clues what bearing am I using. I'm taking the bus to the workshop next week to take the engine apart so I'll make some.
I was trying to figure out where are that gallery plugs to check, but no luck :-)
Since I'm taking apart the engine, where can I locate them?
In addition, is there a good place to fix an oil temp sensor?
thanks a lot!
mpelaz |
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Bleyseng |
Wed Dec 07, 2016 9:16 am |
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Yes, change the rear coupler and check the nose bushing under the shifter.http://www.justkampers.com/211-711-197-front-shift-rod-bush-vw-t2-split-1966-1967-vw-t2-bay-1967-1974.html |
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mpelaz |
Wed Dec 14, 2016 11:56 am |
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We have disassembled the engine today.
The bell housing has this aspect:
It seems to be a guided bearing. The noise was being produced probably by a faulty spring on one of the 3 fingered pressure plate from the first post.
Bad news is that I just discovered that I cannot fix a 200mm clutch in a 180mm flywheel since it has a smaller hole inside it. I expected this flywheel to be the same as the 200mm... but no luck.
Good news is that the work shop offered me an almost-new Luk 180mm kit for 80e everything included:
Do you think that this kit and bearing will fit on my transmission? Does it sound right the spring as the reason for the sound?
Thanks a lot!
mpelaz |
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