TheSamba.com :: View topic - engine removal, clutch, and starter problems, Help!

Sun May 30, 2004 6:07 pm

Having a baja with lots of metal cut off the back has REALLY spoiled me over the years! On my 66' panel, whats the trick to getting to and removing the top drivers side motor to tranny bolt (near the clutch arm)? I'm having a hell of a time trying to navigate past all the crap under there!

I gotsta get to the clutch cause something failed today when I went to the show in Ft. Myers.

On top of all that I'm having a problem with the starter too! Last weekend after a few hundred mile trip in it the the starter didn't do anything when turning the key the next morning. I crawled under there and jumped the starter and it kicked fine. After that its been somewhat fine all week ( always started just seemed delayed a half a second or so sometimes). On top of the clutch failure, it now it is doing the same thing (this was another couple hundred miles at 70mph run today)! I kinda figure its the wire that runs from ign to starter? When the key is fully turned the idiot lights dim like the starter is engaged but not even a click from the starter. I did not try to jump the starter today, as I dove straight into removing the motor but as you can see thats not going to well!

Thanks for any help

Sun May 30, 2004 6:18 pm

How have you been trying to get at that upper engine bolt? Usually a long extension with a swivel on the end of it will do the trick. That's how I recently got mine off.

Sun May 30, 2004 6:29 pm

I just jammed myself in there behind the fan shroud with a 17mm wrench and had at it.

Sun May 30, 2004 6:31 pm

That's how I did it my first time too. I almost got stuck though.

Mon May 31, 2004 6:13 am

It depends on what type of case you have. If it's the older kind, you can reach the nut from inside the engine compartment. Squeeze yourself around the left side/top of the fan housing.

If it's the case with the "captive" nut, there's no nut to loosen fro inside, so it has to be done from underneath with the proper length extension.

Mon May 31, 2004 7:18 am

When you get it out you can replace that bolt when you get it out with an allen head bolt. Makes it a snap to replace. I still haven't replaced mine but one of these days. Just keep at it. it takes some time if the "keeper" notch of the transaxle has not been filed down.

Mon May 31, 2004 9:24 am

"It's just four bolts!" That's the joke between my neighbor and I. We're putting my motor back in today. But we've had that sucker in and our a few times. Ya, it's always that top bolt that is a BEAR. But like the guys said, just keep trying.

Good luck,

Mon May 31, 2004 6:22 pm

I find that the original VW toolkit open end wrench works great for that bolt.
The bend to the wrench seems to allow you to get in there just right.

Mon May 31, 2004 7:10 pm

I figured it out! its and plder (H) case and it was thru bolted. All I have ever dealt with were AS cases so I did not even think to behind the shroud.

Allthough they used a bolt that has a head thats too small to stay captive (but big enough to not allow for a socket to fit it) on the tranny side so It was a chore to remove.

I have some sort of throw out bearing failure. The bearing itself is sloppy on the fork and (this is also a new one for me) the pressure plate has a bearing looking thing attached to the fingers which is alo very chewed up. The clutch always "grabbed" funny and the pedal was very stiff. You can see that the clutch plate didn't like it very much. I think I'm gonna order up a new bowden tube and cable along with clutch, PP, and TOB as I am unsure of what the culprit really is.

Thanks for the help guys, do I use a bolt like the starter side? I could just weld a tab onto the bolt thats there now I guess.

Mon May 31, 2004 7:38 pm

If it's an H case, use a bolt with a half moon head.