| OC Ghia |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 8:13 am |
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| My oil sensor looks pretty ratty. How do I know if it needs to be replaced? If I unplug the wire, should some idiot light come on? I did this and no lights. |
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| coad |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 8:25 am |
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If the idiot light is coming on when you turn the key on and going off once the engine starts running I would say you're in fine shape. That's more or less a self-test every time you start the car.
I think they are pretty hardy little beasts. Anyone actually ever had one of these go bad? |
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| Cobey |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 8:45 am |
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| Not sure yet - neither of my idiot lights come on when I first turn the key. |
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| 74Ghia |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 8:59 am |
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| You're right saying they are hardy little beasts. I've never had one go bad...just had to replace one now and then because it leaked around the connector. |
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| Ghiaddict |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 10:33 am |
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The 2 "idiot lights" in the dash for oil pressure and
electrical charging system should always come on
with the ignition key and both go off after engine start.
I wouldn't run my KG if both of these were not
functioning properly.
The oil pressure sending unit does often develop a leak
right through the center where the electrical terminal attaches.
Very easy to replace. |
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| Cobey |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 10:41 am |
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| Thanks Ghiaddict. She isn't running on the road yet. And, I am unsure if the problem is an electical one, or a real problem. The generator was replaced with an alternator, so I'm not sure if that light is still connected (or should be). I did however had to clean every single bulb holder and wire connection in the dash to get the rest of the lights working. I'll have to check the other end. |
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| GhiaNut |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 12:27 pm |
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| The light comes on when the wire is grounded...if you just disconnect it, you won't get the dash light on. Try grounding it to the case to test the light. Be careful when you put a new sensor in. The threads are tapered "pipe" threads...as you screw the sensor into the case, the wider portion of the threads provides a progressively tighter sealing action. Bad news is you can split the case by overtightening the sensor. A little sealant (not blocking the sensor port) and less force is the answer. |
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| Cobey |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 12:31 pm |
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Cool, I'll give it a check. I would bet that the connection is just corroded and needs some cleaning.
So, on to the charging light. Is is normally disconnected when the generator is replaced with an alternator? |
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| bajaherbie |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 2:38 pm |
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| the wire should be connected to a generator or alternator. when you first start the car both lites should come on briefly. |
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| jason_hamilton |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 2:49 pm |
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In fact, Cobey, with either or generator or an alternator your charging system will not work if the bulb is disconnected or burnt out.
(click the pics to see them full-size)
Before:
After:
Basically, you simply splice the green wire to the blue wire and run the fat red wire to the battery. I chose to leave the old voltage regulator in place. It's not hurting anything, and helps keep the engine bay looking stock. |
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| Cobey |
Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:13 pm |
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| Thanks! I'll have something to check out while waiting for the paint remover to soften up the bondo. :) |
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| Viz |
Thu Jun 03, 2004 3:41 pm |
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Back in the late 70's- early 80's, I replaced probably a half dozen or more that went bad- wouldn't hold a light on. If ya think the sender is in question pull the wire from the sender and ground it. that should make the light go off. (or is it on?) CRS guys- I turn 50 tommorrow! I know it will do one or the other, can't recall which tho. I need a drink....
Chris |
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