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Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:33 pm

i would have it sand blasted because acid dipping sometimes takes off more then you want it too.

Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:54 pm

I`ve never went that far for a resto, you might try doing a search in this forum, I think that was asked before. They mentioned something about using different types of media for sand blasting also. Good Luck. post pictures when done, or at different stages.

Wed Jun 16, 2004 4:10 pm

my vote is blasting.

walnut shell blasting will take off paint and filler and then sand blasting to remove rust and provide metal w/ a "tooth" so your primer/paint will adhere.

cover the bare metal asap w/ epoxy primer. talk to your local auto paint supply store to find out which primer goes w/ which paint.

i cant help you w/ the gun. someone else will chime in.

also, do a search here and read, read, read. there is alot of info to be found.

cheers and good luck.

Wed Jun 16, 2004 7:07 pm

Spray guns:
Expensive and worth it: Sata, Iwata
Moderate but good: Sharpe, DeVilbiss
Cheap - for primer and maybe a couple of finish coats before you buy a better one: Harbor Freight
Prices are in the $50 to $500 range.
Make sure you compressor is really huge. Some HVLP guns take 13 to 14 cubic feet a minute.
As far as primer, it is always best to stick with one brand of products, top to bottom. Decide what kind of paint you will eventually use and use that company's primers. I use PPG now because I have a good dealer and they offer a moderately priced line - the OMNI series. I think the big names are all similar so I suggest you base your decision on the quality of the dealer

Thu Jun 17, 2004 6:29 am

Thu Jun 17, 2004 6:41 pm

If the body is blasted, the rust is physically removed. Nothing left but bright shiny metal. The rust is "cosmetically" changed if you use one if the "rust converter" products like POR15. They encapsulate the rust and chemically alter the top layer but the rust is still there. They greatly reduce further rusting by sealing it well, keeping moisture away from it.
The best choice it to remove rust - dipping or blasting. If that is not possible, remove as much surface rust as possible and use one of the converters.

Thu Jun 17, 2004 8:50 pm

after the body is blasted, the rust will be gone. there will be holes where rust once was or pitted/thinned metal where rust once was. depending on the condition of these areas, you'll want to cut out the old/weak/thin/pitted metal and replace it with new stuff.

shoot epoxy primer right onto metal. no etching, no wax & grease remover, no nothing.

Fri Jun 18, 2004 6:14 am

Tue Jun 22, 2004 12:13 pm

whats under the paint is very important. Preperation is everything. If your primer is not as perfect as possible, how can you expect that anything you put on top of it to look good. Take time to work with it and time in your preping... You will regret mistakes, but you will be proud of a great job...

Wed Jun 23, 2004 7:29 am

Lacquer? UGG! It is pretty much an obsolete paint technology used mainly for ultimate restorations were they were originally done in it. It is a lot of work and not at all durable compared to modern paints. I suggest BC/CC - base coat, clear coat. It is easy to apply and you can color sand the top clear coat if its bad but that usually isn't necessary.

Sat Jun 26, 2004 4:31 pm

i hope that you didn't already have it sandlasted, unless the guy is super carfull he will warp the metal becasue of the heat of the constant sand blowing on it. It happened to mine and it was a bitch to fix, get aircraft paint stripper, 1 gal will be fine

Sun Jun 27, 2004 1:15 am

1971super wrote: i hope that you didn't already have it sandlasted, unless the guy is super carfull he will warp the metal becasue of the heat of the constant sand blowing on it. It happened to mine and it was a bitch to fix, get aircraft paint stripper, 1 gal will be fine

yes thats true. if the sandblaster doesnt know what he's doing.

thats why my vote is to walnut shell blast and then sandblast.

walnut shells are a softer media so you dont really have to worry about warpage. it removes paint and filler. after that you sand blast and because most everything is allready removed, you dont have to focus on one area for too long, thus not creating heat and warpage.

if you go straight sandblast, make sure the blaster knows that they are dealing with a thin gauge metal that will warp easily if not properly taken care of.

Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:11 pm

Where do you get a gallon of Airplane stripper? I've seen small spray cans at walmart, but nothing bigger.
thanks[/b]