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Wed Jun 23, 2004 7:38 pm

Ok guys, I dont know what to do next?

34 weber icts's, adjusted timing valves, carbs.

Checked all jets, replaced jets. now runing 140's and 50 airs.

Idles good, runs, but if I throttle to get passed 3500 RPMs....

Well you get the IDea, no go, no power.

I checked the ,009 dizzy, and it advances (moves when I shine the timeing light at throttle.

WHAT NEXT?

R

Wed Jun 23, 2004 8:30 pm

Don't know that much about Webers, but is the air jet size correct? If so, 50 is WAY too small and will cause an over rich condition at high RPM. But 50 is about the right size for an IDLE jet.

Can you tell if you're running rich or lean at high RPM? And double check the size of the air jet. Something in the 180 range is a good starting point. The air jet controls fuel mixture at high RPM.

Wed Jun 23, 2004 8:57 pm

Sorry, 140 Mains, and 160 Idles

R

Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:36 pm

You might have too much advance,
Try to retard the timing a bit, what is your idle RPM?

Thu Jun 24, 2004 5:59 pm

Did the timing thing too.....advance, retard..etc etc.

Im thinking the air idle jet (50) needs to be bigger?

Maybe the air corrector presently at (160) might be changed too.

ALthoug I like the IDEA that someone said the DIZZY might be defective? Only problem with that Is I see it advancing??

R

Thu Jun 24, 2004 7:59 pm

Could you describe in a little more detail just what the engine does when you pass 3500 RPM? Does it miss, sputter, or just seem to lose power? And does this happen gradually, or all at once?

Thu Jun 24, 2004 9:39 pm

I will describe:

When you first take off in first its good. No RPM gauge but seems like up till 3500- 4000 but then at that point it sputters. Or should i say hesitates.

Then I let off go into thte next gear...same thing. And so on.

If I work the pedal, it can get up there while its hesitating. But its work AND NOT A SMOOTH TRANSITION.

The sputter and loss of power happens right at about 4k and just stuteres, sputters.

But No Popping from carbs and no backfireing from tail pipe.

R

Thu Jun 24, 2004 10:12 pm

get a tach....any aftermarket one will do, then you arent guessing on your rpm range.

Are you running points?

Thu Jun 24, 2004 10:34 pm

Running Points....the RPM is irrelevant....It wont accellerate without sputter,bogging down.

R

Fri Jun 25, 2004 5:04 pm

The RPM is not exactly irrelevant--the speed at which the problem begins may tell us if the air jet is a fault, or if there is some other problem. You say there is no backfiring or popping thru the carbs. Do you notice any black smoke from the exhause when the problem is happening? Have you checked to see how much fuel is reaching your carbs? A bad pump or dirty filter could cause the symptoms you describe.

Finally, did you recently install the carbs, or have they been in the car awhile and just started doing this?

FWIW, I once had a problem similar to yours. Idled fine, cruised fine at lower speeds, but would sputter under acceleration and high speed. Turned out to be a bad carbon fiber-type plug wire.

Fri Jun 25, 2004 9:31 pm

I recently had a similar problem to yours, as I borrowed my fuel pump for another car (trying to get it to run) while my Notch was parked. I replaced the pump I had on the Notch with a bug pump, and I started having a miss at the higher rpms. I tried adding some fuel cleaner (thinking the gas needed some vitamins), but it didn't work. The car had been perfect the last time I drove it. I ended up putting the "new" pump on the other car and re-installed the pump I had back on the Notch. That fixed my problem right away. :D In your case, it might be similar to what I had, not enough fuel pressure to supply the engine. Just some food for thought.

Sat Jun 26, 2004 9:42 am

If it's bogging down without backfiring or popping, I'd look at the ignition system. If it's fuel, and leaning out, well, too lean is what causes the explosion or "backfire". Seems to me you're losing spark at a certain advance curve. SO, my best scientific wild- ass guess would be it's a distributor problem- Wire between pionts/ condenser fried and shorting out in the distributor, bad condenser, point gap incorrect, OR if you have an electronic conversion, fried/ worn wires to the Hall effect sender. Barring that, perhaps a spring on an advance weight in the distributor is off/ defective, or the weights are frozen. Ignition troubles like the ones I'm describing are a tough nut because they usually occur UNDER LOAD- IE, you can rev the hell out of the engine all day long in the service bay with the instruments hooked up and it won't miss a beat. THEN, take it out on the road, and....
I've heard also that the later 009s are less than reliable, very prone to problems. Being a strictly OE guy, I've never really had that much experience with 'em, but as de Niro said in "Goodfellas"... "I hoid tings...I hoid tings!"
Hope this winds up being of some help.

Sat Jun 26, 2004 9:47 pm

Get a LOAD of this. Went into the garage last night, Turned off all the lights, closed the garage door (dont do this at home) but anyway, started her up and FLASHES like 4th of july.

Went over to the fast back, took the ignition wires off of 3 & 4 and WHAMMO!! She is SO FINE!!!.

Thanks GUYS.