TheSamba.com :: View topic - what is the procedure to remove pitted rust?

Tue Jun 29, 2004 2:11 pm

I have pitted rust along the rain gutter and other areas, but I thought to start top down. I was told to grind with 36 grit and then use 50 grit and to watch the metal getting hot. After getting it down to metal, I was told to primer the area and then spray a guide coat and then sand down the black guide coat. Is this correct? I haven't really done that much body work, but want to get a bus I have looking a little more appealing.
thanks,
Brendan

Tue Jun 29, 2004 2:58 pm

depending on how deep the pitting is, you will need more than primer to fill it. if you have access to a sandblaster, use that to remove the rust. the guide coat method you mentioned is pretty much the last step before you do the final block on your primer with 320 or 400 grit. after you finish your body work in 150 or 180 grit, lay on some primer, after it dries you can mist some black rattle can paint over it, then go over it with a sanding block and where the black mist of paint is left will be your low spots.

Tue Jun 29, 2004 3:44 pm

use a wire brush on a drill. brush off the area untill the metal looks clean. then spray on some metal conditioner(phosphoric acid and some other chemicals. you can get it at home depot) the metal conditioner will get rid of any rust that was not brushed off. once the metal is rust free, you can deal with the pitted metal. spread some epoxie over the pitted area, no primer needed if done immediatly after cleaning the metal, then sand it down.

Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:12 am

octavionegroponte wrote: . spread some epoxie over the pitted area, no primer needed if done immediatly after cleaning the metal, then sand it down.

Okay, so you're saying is to remove as much of the rust with a metal brush, and grind if I have to to bare metal? When you say epoxie do you mean bondo? I'm wondering if I should just have sandblasted by a shop. I just don't want to spend anymore money on it. I can certainly do the work by hand. It'll take a lot of time, though since I also have to attack the cargo floor which is in bad shape. I'm not looking forward to drilling out all those damm welds. When those cargo floors were welded, they didn't fool around.

Okay, thanks for your advice.

Fri Jul 02, 2004 2:50 pm

sandblasting would be easier than grinding down to the bare metal. make sure you get all of the rust off. epoxie is better than bondo. it lasts longer, does not crack, and is harder.

Fri Jul 02, 2004 3:41 pm

you can use "icing" made by usc, available from any autobody supply. its a two part glaze, a lot thinner than bondo and is more like a super heavy primer. sandblasting is best, wire wheel will work but definitely use a metal conditioner if you go that route and dont be surprised when it bubbles in a year or two.