TheSamba.com :: View topic - long-drive oil light

Fri Jul 09, 2004 9:42 am

Since I don't drive long-distances or for long times very often, I usually don't see this, but I figure its better to ask and find out its not a problem than to not ask and blow the engine.

After driving for 1+ hours on the freeway at higher speeds (74-79) and when decelerating, if I allow the car to idle down or stay at low rpms on the motor, the oil light will come on slowly, and sometimes the hand-brake light as well... I think the hand-brake light could be something completely different, but figured I'd tell the whole symptom.

Is there something wrong with my oil pressure sending unit(overheating)? Or the pump?

Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:55 pm

Happens often to older motors, consider using a heavier weight oil, maybe a 20/50

-jeffrey

Sat Jul 10, 2004 10:47 pm

Would a straight 30 weight oil work too?

Sun Jul 11, 2004 4:56 pm

Straight 30W is what the older Bugs all recommended.

I wouldn't be surprised if you've just got an engine that's getting a bit tired. Bearings getting a bit worn, and an oil pump that's getting a little "play" in it will lead to lower oil pressure. It doesn't have to be the end, but it often means that a rebuild is not too many thousand miles down the road.

It could also be that your engine idles down lower than it should.

I suppose it could be your oil sending unit, but I've not heard that that is very common. If you wanted to get an oil guage, that would give you a little better idea.

It is also possible that your engine is getting too hot. Are all your cooling tins in place, and all engine compartment seals good?

JSH

Mon Jul 12, 2004 8:39 pm

The oil pump wasn't replaced on it, but the engine was just rebuilt... I melted a piston after installing electronic ignition and not setting the timing with a gun-it was advanced just a wee bit too far... I hope that's not what the problem is... Could switching to 30w fix the problem?

Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:43 pm

i get the same thing on mine and i run stright 40w

Its only after long trips, and i was told the same thing about the motor bin old so i shrug it off, when it goes, it goes..

Tue Jul 13, 2004 12:49 pm

Despyr;

30w oil is thicker than, for instance, 5w30. 40w oil is thicker than 30w. Therefore, it will not get as thin as the lower weight oils when it is hot. And, because it is thicker, it will tend to give you a little more oil pressure.

On the other hand, if you live in a cold climate like I do, you will not be able to run 30w or 40w in the winter - because you'll never get your car started in the morning.

JSH

Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:15 am

I move between Waco,TX and Phoenix,AZ. Unfortunately I'll be in Waco during winter-and it does get below freezing fairly often during winter-will it still work okay at just below freezing? Or should I switch oils when I do my oil changes right before and after winter?

Wed Jul 14, 2004 11:22 am

You should be changing your oil every 2000-3000 miles, you can use a heavier wt oil in the summer, and a lighter wt in the winter. Or a multigrade year round. Oil changes are cheap, and it makes your buggy happy every time you do it.

I used straight 30wt in my car for 17 years [while living in California] until I moved to the east coast four years ago. I now use 20/50 because it occasionally sees a little winter weather along with the blistering hot summers. I've put 225,000 miles on my bug, rebuilt the motor for the first time at 194,000. I've had some pretty good luck using the above. Although your motor may be a little tired, changing your oil often, and using the proper wt may breathe a little more life back into it.

-jeffrey