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Sun Jul 11, 2004 5:46 pm

Symptom -
After running the SB for about 15 minutes in warm weather, the oil light will come on at a stop or when engine is idling down. A little revving and the light goes out again. Before driving, the engine idles fine. After warmed and run, the idle is pretty rough and the motor rocks quite a bit.

Checked-
1.) Oil level - right at the full mark, using 10w40
2.) Thermostat - broken, however there is more to it. The linkage bar to the flaps is gone, so I manually turned the flap arms to the left driver's side) where they seemed to lock into position.
3.) Oil pressure relief valves - A little fiddling and the piston dropped out. Cleaned it up, and it will usually slide in and out no problem. Occasionally is will get stuck at the top and I'll have to fiddle with it some to get it to drop back down again. This is on the one to the rear of the SB, as I couldn't get the scree out of the one in front one (working on it in the street).
4.) Idle - Set to ~900RMPS

Where else should I look? I was going to check the mixture, but not sure which screw on the side does what. The manuals I have only have photos of a PICT30, and I have PICT34.

TIA!

Sun Jul 11, 2004 6:24 pm

Do a search. Covered a thousand times, and most recently yesterday (check a few posts down)

BB

Sun Jul 11, 2004 6:35 pm

Yes, but I didn't want to hijack his thread by asking more question in it. I have also searched.

Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:11 pm

Okay, so i found instructions on asjusting the 34 PICT-3 carb. However, following the instructions on setting the idle via the bypass screw gets me just about nothing in teh way of RPMs. Idle is still really rough too. I noted that the SB is really erratic in running. I can't get the idle to stablize, and it jumps around quite a bit (more than 100 RPMS)

This is making me wonder if something else is up. The PO had painted the whole motor. And I mean the whole motor. Even the belt has some paint on it. I have no idea what he used, but it is possible that the paint is causing the motor to heat up more than it should? The coil is blisteringly hot, and is just about every surface in there.

TIA!

Mon Jul 12, 2004 1:10 am

I had a similar prob with my idle... then I adjusted the valves. Took care of the erratic idle, and starts better warm and cold. BB

Mon Jul 12, 2004 8:33 am

After about 6 more hours of research, I think I am getting closer. Several references I found indicated that the stock dizzy should be positioned with cyl #1 at roughly a 4:30 position. Mine is much more like 2:30 or so. With all the paint on the motor, I can't confirm TDC with the pulley. So, I am going to have to find it using the pencil in cyl #1 method and mark it myself, mark the pulley, get the dizzy lined up correctly, and check out the timing.

Tue Jul 13, 2004 8:01 pm

The saga continues!

Let me see now what would cause the light to come on....

- probably the missing engine compartment seal
- probably the missing firewall
- probably the passenger side heat exchanger that isn't actually attached to the muffler.

Wed Jul 14, 2004 10:22 pm

u need to get the oil pressure plug at the gearbox end of the engine out as thats the one that regulates the pressure to the crank etc whereas the crank pully one by-passes the oil cooler when the oils cold.
if the bore/valve is worn then at operating temp the thin oil will leak by the valve.
also try the crank test by pulling on the pully back and forth to see if there is any movement. if noticable movement then worn crank. it's only a rough test as only notices on bad wear but may give u a clue.

Wed Jul 14, 2004 11:00 pm

Cobey wrote: After about 6 more hours of research, I think I am getting closer. Several references I found indicated that the stock dizzy should be positioned with cyl #1 at roughly a 4:30 position. Mine is much more like 2:30 or so. With all the paint on the motor, I can't confirm TDC with the pulley. So, I am going to have to find it using the pencil in cyl #1 method and mark it myself, mark the pulley, get the dizzy lined up correctly, and check out the timing.

just use your valves as a guide, if cylinder 1's valves are both loose and so is #2 intake, your on cylinder one. just look for the notch on your pulley and line it up with the case halves. it doesn't matter where your dist. points as long as it is timed correctly, mine sits #1 at 1 o clock, doesnt affect it as long as it is timed correctly

Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:45 pm

Quote: Let me see now what would cause the light to come on....

- probably the missing engine compartment seal
- probably the missing firewall

You are on your way to a melt down. Fix both of those first for cheap money. That is why you are too hot.

Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:50 pm

That's the plan. I fixed up the heat exchanger already. The seal I'm going to have to fix with one from a type 2 (the foam type) as I don't have the tools/space/money-to-pay-someone-else-to-do-it-for-me. The firewall though I am still researching. Is it just that tarboard stuff that seperates the rear of the cabin from engine compartment?

Thu Jul 15, 2004 1:58 pm

The engine to body seal is an easy fix, I think a regular beetle/superbeetle one will do. I was thinking they are foam also.

The deal with the firewall is just to make the seal complete so however you decide to do that is OK. You are trying to separate dirty hot air that has been through the engine, from clean cool air you are going to be putting through the fan to cool your engine.

I never had any luck running 10-40 oil myself. Either straight 30 weight or 20-50 is what I always used to use in mine.

Thu Jul 15, 2004 2:14 pm

Right, but what is the firewall? Just that tarboard stuff, or is there something else that does in first?

Thu Jul 15, 2004 2:21 pm

the firewall is the sheetmetal thats between the passenger compartment and the engine or gas tank. thats why my car would have rasonably survived a five minute fire. the firewall had kept the fire out of the interior until the glass broke and the headliner went up in flames

Thu Jul 15, 2004 2:25 pm

Okay, and the tarboard goes over that and is held down by those pointy bit of metal, correct?

Thu Jul 15, 2004 2:51 pm

bingo

the tarboard is insulation