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Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:39 pm

a "wet" coat is one that you spray on slowly and thick. its fast enough that it doesnt run, but slow enough you dont get orange peel.

Sat Nov 25, 2006 7:15 am

Have you guys ever used Zolatone to paint anything. It is a textured product. I will use in my engine compartment and rockers but wondered how it would look on the entire surface. I am going for a satin or flat desert tan
or L87 Pearl white color. I can't find pictures where this has been done.

Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:06 am

I am not a paint expert, but I have dabbled in it for nearly 26 years now.

At my site thebugshop.org (tech help section) there is a DIY paint article.

http://thebugshop.org/bsfqpnt.htm

Also possibly relevant to this forum, the "Tool Techniques" article.

Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:07 am

Well I have a Dune Buggy and have had to fill in some holes and larger cracks with fiberglass cloth and mat some bondo. Ive primered the whole fiberglass body. Probably about 2 to 3 coats, except where I had to go back and fill some blemishes that the primer brought out. My question is when Iam ready to paint the fiberglass with my color paint, do i follow the same steps as for sheet metal? Also, any suggestions for applying metal flake to the paint and painting with it, because im planning on using metal flake. thanks.

Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:08 am

Quote: lets assume that we are starting with a BARE door shell. We need to make sure that there is proper adhesion of the first step of paint. to do this you sand at about a 25-30* angle in a cross hatch pattern. after this step we need to wash the piece you are working on. wash.. now we bust out the wax and grease remover..(this will be a very reaccuring theme..) i use a whipe on whipe off much like Mr. Miagi.. soak one of the lint free cloths with the remover and leave on dry.. and bust it clean... IF NOT you WILL GET FISH EYES... big no no.. then you get to see my FAQ fixing paint mistakes that I am going to write later.... the mix up some of the etching primer with the proper reducers, and spray that puppy... but how you ask.. ok well.. most paint use whats called a 50% overlap.. that mean with each pass you go over the last pass 50%... maintaining what is called a wet edge. Adjusting your gun.. I am going to take some pics and show that one later too.... play enough you can figure it out.. two coats with proper FLASH TIME.. ( the tme it takes the paints solvent to escape..) or you will get runs... and get to see the FAQ fixing paint mess ups..

ok .. we got the pannel all in etching primer..(hey ya painted something!! good for you.. ) the next step is to apply the primer filler.. this stuff is THICK!! (IMO nothing beats PPG k-36 or k-38...) ok. apply as mentioned above.. when your done.. aplly the guide coat. I doesnt need to be heavy just enough to see a lil bit.. AKA fog coat.. now comes sanding.. WET sanding.. ok. cut the 300 G sand paper and fold it around the soft block. keep the surface wet and sand in the cross hatch motion at 30* or so with a 5-6" stroke. do this till ALL of the guide coat is gone.. IF not you are going to leave a visable ring if there is body work in the substraight.. (painters call em ASSHOLES... 'cuase it makes ya feel like one when you spend all this time getting the car ready to paint.. you waste material and time painting.. and you get a ASSHOLE that you have to go back and repair.....) Follow up with a second guide coat and 600-800 in the same way as above.. Guaranteed no assholes...

Hi all, I have a couple questions about this part of the process please. What amount of time is left in between the etching primer and the primer filler? Is it flash time for the etching primer or is it left to completely dry per the product specs?

Also the "guide coat", what is that? Is it just a very thin coat of the primer filler or is it another product? It says to "apply as above" then spray the guide coat so would this a third coat of primer filler? I assume these coats are put on after proper flash time of the primer filler as well correct? Thanks for your time.

Mon Apr 30, 2007 2:42 pm

good explaning, except you shouldnt use 120 grit to start , use 80 grit if your going down to bare metal, the job will be faster, and 80 grit wont scratch the metal up to badly, dont use anything under 80 !!!!

Mon Apr 30, 2007 2:49 pm

SLO-N-LO-69 wrote: Quote: lets assume that we are starting with a BARE door shell. We need to make sure that there is proper adhesion of the first step of paint. to do this you sand at about a 25-30* angle in a cross hatch pattern. after this step we need to wash the piece you are working on. wash.. now we bust out the wax and grease remover..(this will be a very reaccuring theme..) i use a whipe on whipe off much like Mr. Miagi.. soak one of the lint free cloths with the remover and leave on dry.. and bust it clean... IF NOT you WILL GET FISH EYES... big no no.. then you get to see my FAQ fixing paint mistakes that I am going to write later.... the mix up some of the etching primer with the proper reducers, and spray that puppy... but how you ask.. ok well.. most paint use whats called a 50% overlap.. that mean with each pass you go over the last pass 50%... maintaining what is called a wet edge. Adjusting your gun.. I am going to take some pics and show that one later too.... play enough you can figure it out.. two coats with proper FLASH TIME.. ( the tme it takes the paints solvent to escape..) or you will get runs... and get to see the FAQ fixing paint mess ups..

ok .. we got the pannel all in etching primer..(hey ya painted something!! good for you.. ) the next step is to apply the primer filler.. this stuff is THICK!! (IMO nothing beats PPG k-36 or k-38...) ok. apply as mentioned above.. when your done.. aplly the guide coat. I doesnt need to be heavy just enough to see a lil bit.. AKA fog coat.. now comes sanding.. WET sanding.. ok. cut the 300 G sand paper and fold it around the soft block. keep the surface wet and sand in the cross hatch motion at 30* or so with a 5-6" stroke. do this till ALL of the guide coat is gone.. IF not you are going to leave a visable ring if there is body work in the substraight.. (painters call em ASSHOLES... 'cuase it makes ya feel like one when you spend all this time getting the car ready to paint.. you waste material and time painting.. and you get a ASSHOLE that you have to go back and repair.....) Follow up with a second guide coat and 600-800 in the same way as above.. Guaranteed no assholes...

Hi all, I have a couple questions about this part of the process please. What amount of time is left in between the etching primer and the primer filler? Is it flash time for the etching primer or is it left to completely dry per the product specs?

Also the "guide coat", what is that? Is it just a very thin coat of the primer filler or is it another product? It says to "apply as above" then spray the guide coat so would this a third coat of primer filler? I assume these coats are put on after proper flash time of the primer filler as well correct? Thanks for your time.

with etching primer , depending on product , should be left to cure around 1 - 2 hours, before laying down a surfacer primer. Then with the surfacer wait about 30 min. to 1 hours to cure, depending on how much you lay down. 30 min for light to med. 1 hour for heavy. Also incase you dont know, use a Epoxy or Etching primer first < do not sand epoxy or etching primer !!!! > Then use the sufacer primer.

With the guide coat < usally black in color depedning on what primer color you use>, just lay it on real light wait 15 min. then start sanding, your low spots will be black < or color of guide coat> and the leved spots will be sanded off. Then you have a better idea of where to spot fill or surface.

Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:48 pm

3 M make a nice powered guide coat,
fast and cheaper

Thu Mar 06, 2008 3:36 am

I have heard that filler bonds better to epoxy primer than it does to bare metal and that some people epoxy before applying bondo/filler. Is this true? A good idea or myth?

Fri Mar 07, 2008 7:00 am

I know this is a DIY guide but I wanted to ask an opinion from you experienced painters/ body men.
One company (and I forget the name) has just recently released a line of pre mixed 2 stage paints. I saw it on one of the Sunday car programs & found it in my local auto parts store.
I have a black car (89 Jetta) that needs a fender & hood painted.
What's your opinion on something like that?
Comes in seperate quart cans for primer, base & clear no mixing or reducing required.
I would like to try it just to get my car all black again & looking somewhat presentable.

Thanks

Fri Mar 07, 2008 7:33 am

wasted wages wrote: I know this is a DIY guide but I wanted to ask an opinion from you experienced painters/ body men.
One company (and I forget the name) has just recently released a line of pre mixed 2 stage paints. I saw it on one of the Sunday car programs & found it in my local auto parts store.
I have a black car (89 Jetta) that needs a fender & hood painted.
What's your opinion on something like that?
Comes in seperate quart cans for primer, base & clear no mixing or reducing required.
I would like to try it just to get my car all black again & looking somewhat presentable.

Thanks

Is it a urethane? If not, I wouldn't bother with it. If it is, and it is from a good, established company like DuPont, Glasurit, PPG, etc. it might be a good product. Google the crap out of it, if it is garbage, there will be evidence of that.........

Fri Mar 07, 2008 11:03 pm

I want to say it was dupli-color but I may be wrong.
It also seems to me that it was a laquer based paint.
I'll see if I can get more info.

Found it

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?Mfr...yCode=3270

Sat Apr 19, 2008 2:55 am

spiderjames wrote: I have heard that filler bonds better to epoxy primer than it does to bare metal and that some people epoxy before applying bondo/filler. Is this true? A good idea or myth?

I would like to know if this is true

Thanks
Dave

Wed May 28, 2008 11:26 pm

Yep that's the only part left I need to know too regarding filling ontop of the primer

Anyone???

Sun Jun 01, 2008 6:34 am

What about room temp? Somone told be yesterday that the room I paint in should be around 90deg to get a good paint job. I have a tarp car port that will be changed into my paint boot with a closed floor, ventelation, and plastic lining all the way around the inside. I was just gonna have a space heater in there to keep an average temp but I might look into heat lamps as well now. Just don't want it to get to hot and come out the next morning to just see a tube frame around my bus like a bird cage. That would suck. What's the verdict? Thanks!

Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:01 am

Split 1 wrote: spiderjames wrote: I have heard that filler bonds better to epoxy primer than it does to bare metal and that some people epoxy before applying bondo/filler. Is this true? A good idea or myth?

I would like to know if this is true

Thanks
Dave

Filler bonds best to clean bare metal. Imagine a metal surface that is ready for bondo, prepped by a grinder using 80-grit. You can see the swirl marks. Looking at those swirl marks under a microscope, one would see deep valleys and crevices. This gives the filler a more secure surface to bond to. If you take that same metal surface and now spray primer on it, those crevices are being filled leaving a much smoother surface.

Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:25 am

ok, but then if you sand the primer, you will have those same deep valleys and crevices.

Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:04 pm

First, manufactures designed body filler to be used over bare metal. Before bondo lead was used as filler over bare metal. Bondo was created as an efficient and cost effective alternative to lead. Bondo is designed to stick to the metal surface. The risk one faces when applying filler over epoxy primer is that the primer must be thoroughly cured so that the bondo doesn’t absorb solvents from the primer. To prevent absorption, never use lacquer thinner or cleaning solvents over bondo to clean the surface. Gases are being released from these products (body filler and the many types of available primers for example) applied to prep the surface for paint. This is one reason why I never use a primer sealer, as it prevents gases from escaping properly and can cause paint to blister/bubble. When I first learned how to apply bondo, I was taught to not be so wasteful. Those with little experience tend to apply more filler than required and the excess ends up on the floor. This happened to me often. Unless you enjoy wasting time and money, it’s an unnecessary step to apply primer (more expensive than bondo) first only to sand or grind the surface that you wish to apply bondo to. Intentionally applying primer first only to apply bondo over it is wasteful. Bondo works well over primed or a painted surface as long as it has been cured, sanded, and cleaned. But the question was what works best, applying bondo over metal or primer.

Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:12 am

Could someone please explain "light tack rag" to me? Thanks.

Quote: WASH AND W/G remover.. TACK RAG...
Primer sealer/ epoxy primer.. TRY to get it close to the color you are going to paint.. it will safe paint materials.. and$$..
apply as above with proper flash times...

light tack rag..

WET on WET.. that means.. after the second coat of sealer... comes the base coat... with proper flash time.. but with in tie coat limits.. usuall 35-50 minutes... ok.. spray one your base BUT!!! most base coats use a 75% overlap.. member this. OBTAIN good coverage.. pics up a coverage sticker at your jobber store.. some paints take 2 coats... some take 8-10.. depends on the kind of color.... and it "hiding abilities.."

light tack rag...

WET ON WET.. again.. clear coat or SINGLE STAGE... I like and first coat with a light to medium wetness.. and a heavy second.. thats just me.. some go med med.. or heavy light.. clear coats.. ONLY 2... IF you want more. let it dry.. wetsand with 600-800 and reclear... SUPER DEEP REALLY NICE finsih product that way..
SINGLE STAGE.. stop when coverage is achieved..

Thu Oct 09, 2008 9:55 am

BellePlaine wrote: Could someone please explain "light tack rag" to me? Thanks.

Tack cloth is a sticky (or tacky) material used for removing dust from a surface prior to finishing it with paint, varnish, or some similar product.
used when surface is dry.
all auto paint stores sell them.(and some parts stores too)