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Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:46 am

I finally installed an electric temp gauge and found when driving it hard or on the freeway the temp is 220 degrees. Someone told me that wasn't bad, so should I be worried?

Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:51 am

230 degrees is considered overheating for a VW.

Fri Aug 13, 2004 9:36 am

i have a 71 and have gone crazy to solve my overheating. first of all 200-210 is fine at highway speeds and creeping up to 220-225 on hills and passing is okay but... install an oil cooler and either get a hood standoff or vent the engine from underneath. i wasn't happy until i could cruise all day at 80+ mph . also make sure your carb. jetting and timing are right.

Fri Aug 13, 2004 1:31 pm

The gauges are not really all that accurate, but they are a good way to spot "trending".

Don't buy an additional cooler, you don't need it in a pretty stock super beetle. They drive these things in the desert.

Keep your engine in good tune, change the oil and adjust the valves every 3K, make sure the engine to body seal in good shape, keep your rpms up where they are blowing lots of nice cool air over the stock oil cooler, and don't be afraid to back off the gas once in a while. These things will go 65 or 70 all day for a hundred years, but a lot less at 84 mph.

Oh yeah, and make sure you have the stock distributor in there. That will help you run cooler.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 7:19 am

Good advice from the Gentleman from Maine. To often VW folks "fix" problems they don't have.

Oil will still lubricate upwards of 300 degrees, but if your temp raises above 250, you should start being concerned. Mainly because it's points to other system failures, not necessarily to the beetles failure to cool. 220-230 isn't too high for hard, hot day driving. Like Randy pointed out, make sure your car is tuned properly, all the original tin is in place, and all the engine seals are present, even the ones around the spark plug holes. Fi you are in a warmer climate, consider srtaight 30wt oil, or a 20w50wt oil for summer driving.

-jeffrey

Sat Aug 14, 2004 7:58 am

Thank you for all the responses. I didn't want to add an external oil cooler unless I had to. I was considering using 20/50 oil, but was afraid I might be masking the real problem. I'm sure the engine is tuned good and I have a .009 distributor which I think is not far from stock. Vacuumless. So, I think I'll try the thicker oil first. Thanks, again.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 8:02 am

Thicker oil will only mask the problem.

Make sure the ALL the engine tin is in place. Also make sure the 2 seals around the engine compartment is in good condition.

Check the timing, if it's wrong your engine will run hotter.

Fix the problem the right way.

I have a highly modified 1904cc with 9.25:1 compression. I'm using all OEM tin, Dog House shroud, 1.5qt deep sump and full flow filter. My oil temps ate in the normal 180-210 range with sometimes reaching 220 after high speed pass on the freeway.

Also it depends on where the temp sender is located. Some location will rear hotter than others.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 8:19 am

The deep sump was something else I was considering, but also heard that it gives more oil but doesn't necessarily make it cooler. My sender unit is located in the relief valve next to the oil pump. Any opinions on how accurate that is?

Sat Aug 14, 2004 8:35 am

You're correct in a deep sump ads capacity... and doesn't really lower the temps.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 8:57 am

I think the heart of the problem is:

Quote: I have a .009 distributor

I am sorry I am so opinionated. I am still in therapy for that. I am sorry I hate them. If only they were better built, gave more advance, and if the advance came on sooner, I could live with them. Unless you are racing this thing at the track once a week, you are better off and running cooler with the stock vacuum advance unit.

If you are going to use one, at least make sure it is timed correctly. You need a timing light and a tach to get it to total advance - 30* at 3000 RPMs, then allow it to idle down and it will end up being about 7.5* BTDC.

Start looking for a 205whatever vacuum advance to put in there at the VW swap meets. Maybe a 010 from Glenn?

Sometimes with the dual carbs if they are running too rich the motor has to work harder to combust the fuel, too lean and that will also cause the motor to run too hot. They have to be right on the money with no vacuum leaks.

I will defer to Glenn or the others about where to mount the OT sending unit. They would know better than me on a type 1.

I am not a big fan of deep sumps unless you are at the track. Just more hot oil which doesn't help the problem.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 10:59 am

i know my engine was as hot no matter what the gauge said it was. at 230 degress it would start running rough,then at 245 the carb linkage came off, then at 250 i broke the head[rocker boss broke off]. after i addressed a couple of problems- defective kadrons,71 deck lid with only 2 vents[1972 saw vw put in 4-must have had a reason] etc. it was much much better but putting an oil cooler made an incredible improvement. i can now push the car hard all day without having to use my oil temp as a speedometer

Sat Aug 14, 2004 11:04 am

oh yeah,so i bought i unilight vacuum advance[from those wonderfull aircooled.net folks] all happy to see better fuel economy and lower temps. but i have too hot a cam -297 duration 310 lift/1.5 rockers to pull any vacuum-only 6 inches slamming the throttle. any suggestions, i refuse to return it -i want to make it work.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 11:15 am

There's nothing wrong with a 009 if you're running dual carbs with no vacuum, that's what it was designed for. The problem tends to come when hot shots try to run a 009 with their stocker. Generally Speaking, a hot cam is just that, hot. You lose vacuum and you idle rough. Hot temps are part of hot engines. Get yourself an oil cooler and make sure everything is in order stock cooling wise. Also, you might want to check the internal oil cooler for clogging/damage.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 11:19 am

Terran wrote: There's nothing wrong with a 009 if you're running dual carbs with no vacuum, that's what it was designed for. The problem tends to come when hot shots try to run a 009 with their stocker. Generally Speaking, a hot cam is just that, hot. You lose vacuum and you idle rough. Hot temps are part of hot engines. Get yourself an oil cooler and make sure everything is in order stock cooling wise. Also, you might want to check the internal oil cooler for clogging/damage.

Then how do you explain my engine running normal temps?

1904cc, dual 45 DLRA Dellorto, 9.25:1 cr, C45 cam 296° duration / .418" lift (.543" with rockers). I have NO external oil cooler... no need.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 11:25 am

Plus, what's wrong running a 009, with a stock engine? I have no heat issues (granted I don't know the temps I'm running at, but I have no issues, in that area.)

1600dp, 009 dizzy with a Compufire electronic ignition.

(FWIW, the car came with the 009, I didn't install it myself... I did install the Compufire.)

Sat Aug 14, 2004 11:27 am

Barry32 wrote: Plus, what's wrong running a 009, with a stock engine? I have no heat issues (granted I don't know the temps I'm running at, but I have no issues, in that area.)

1600dp, 009 dizzy with a Compufire electronic ignition.

(FWIW, the car came with the 009, I didn't install it myself... I did install the Compufire.)

Put a Bosch 019 or a SVDA and you'll know what you're missing.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 11:46 am

the "Flat Spot" associated with 009's is usually cause by matching it with an 'underpowered' engine. I.E. Stock.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 12:07 pm

The main problem with the 009 is the contruction. I've rebuild over 75 cast iron distributors and only had one that needed new bushings and that was because there was dirt inside and it damaged the brass bushing.

The 009 just doesn't hold up as well to wear and i've seen a number of them wear the bushings in a few years. The German ones are not bad, but the Brazilian ones are sometimes bad out of the box.

For a stock engine the SVDA is best. For a mild performance the 019 and for a highly modified a 010. For the ultimate i'd go with a Mallory.

You what you want, but if you have the opportunity to try a 019 or 010, you'll never go back to the 009.

Sat Aug 14, 2004 12:12 pm

Interesting... I did not necessarily know all this. However, since I'm going to be rebuilding the engine, to around a 1915/7 I might as well, for now, stick with the dizzy I've got. (I have other issues to spend money on, with the car, that require my attention, more so than the dizzy...)

No reason, that I can see, for replacing something I know I can use in an upcoming project. 8)

EDIT: Ok, I'll give them a look see, especially the Mallory. Thanks!

(Sorry for the threadjack, ladybug! 8) )

Sat Aug 14, 2004 12:34 pm

Quote: if you have the opportunity to try a 019 or 010, you'll never go back to the 009.

I have never seen those availible for sale anywhere.