TheSamba.com :: View topic - Drag link Stuck!!! How i would remove it better?

Sat Oct 23, 2004 9:31 am

I'm removing my front beam assembly today from the bus.

I removed all the cables, transmission rod, etc....

But the drag link is stucked in the pivot arm!

I bumped it hard with a mallet, but is didn't moved...

Am i doing this in the wrong manner? Do you have any better idea how can i remove it?

I took a picture from the drag link end. It's in the gallery...

Thanks in advance

Julio

Sat Oct 23, 2004 9:42 am

Try pressing the ball joint back into the arm. That will hold the shaft so you can remove the nut. Oh I didnt read it all. I just saw ur photo and thought u couldnt get the nut off. Do you have a pulley puller? Or a pickle fork, be very carefull with these as you can tear the rubber boot.

Sat Oct 23, 2004 10:25 am

You need a small puller, or a tie-rod pickle fork tool to seperate the joint from the arm. The design of the stud on the ball joint is tapered for a tight fit, that's why it wont break loose easily.

Sat Oct 23, 2004 10:34 am

What I do is...

-Losen the nut until the end of the stud is Flush with the top of the nut. This will protect the threads and the end of the balljoint.
-Soak the balljoint end with penetrating fluid, where it enters into the pivot arm.
-Wedge a pickelfork into the arm and smack the handle until it is very snug under the joint.
-Tap the end of the joint sharply a few times.
-Go back to tapping the end of the handle to snug up the pickle fork.
-Repeat until your ears are ringing and your fingers lock up from arthritis.
BINK!
-Remove nut, enjoy...serve with a side of coffee.
:D

If your tie rod ends, or drag link ends are bad anyway, use a little heat to make the process go much faster. Just don't heat anything up too much or you can weaken the metal.

Sat Oct 23, 2004 10:52 am

I just replaced mine yesterday....I used a pickle fork. Granted I was replacing mine so I was not worried about damage. Reguardless what others may say, you can remove the ends without damage to the joint or rubber boots. Mine came off without any damage. You do not need to go out and buy a $80 hazet press to remove them. Take your time. It only took about two minutes to remove.

Mike

Sat Oct 23, 2004 11:38 am

Thanks for all inputs...

I will go back to shop now, and smack that thing it until i get deaf....

I'm pretty sure it's the original drag link, so it's stucked in there for over 35 years...

I will post if i was lucky or not removing it...

Julio

Sat Oct 23, 2004 1:31 pm

pounding on your steering components is a bad idea. the picklefork is the wrong tool. just upstream from the forward drag link ball joint is the pitman arm shaft which is held snuggly into the steering box with brass bushings. I have a feeling that hammering on them would not be good.

there is a special tool for this. you can see pictures of it in your bentley manual. hazet makes the tool, so do several other tool manufacturers. I think that it costs between $75-$100. it is money well spent. my tie rod popper tool is the most commonly borrowed tool by my friends.

I am of the opinion that if you are going to do the work, get the right tools. not having the right tools can cause you to break other things by using the wrong tool (like a picklefork). one of the reasons that shops charge so much to do the work is because they have tens of thousands of dollars invested into their tools.

Sat Oct 23, 2004 2:33 pm

Lind wrote: pounding on your steering components is a bad idea.
wot Lind said

last time I replaced a drag link was on my 61... I ended up removing the pitman arm with the aid of Eric E. and the Persuader. Then his hazet tool popped the drag link end off the pitman arm like butter... was no room to use the tool with pitman arm installed. there was factory scribe marks for how to reinstall the pitman arm... so no worries about getting it on the splines wrong.

Sun Oct 24, 2004 5:06 am

Although my drag link was original, I did not have to pound the joint to remove the end. Just a couple of firm taps. Granted mine was not rusted at all. I do agree that really pounding the suspension is not a good idea. If you need to do that to remove the joint its time to find another method. (rent a tool). If you are a full time mechanic and replace ball joints often fine, buy the tool. I just dont think the ordinary joe out there is going to be doing that. Regardless of the method, soak the joint good with penetrant prior to starting.

Mike

Sun Oct 24, 2004 7:43 am

I just have big pulley pullers that were not adequate for this job.
So i will pick one with the appropriate from a friend....
That would solve this problem (i think).
I already soaked the joint with oil...sure it will help.

I'm removing the front beam, engine and transmission to start my sheetmetal work. I will skip to the engine removal until i could get the pulley puller, probably tomorrow.

Thanks

Julio

Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:04 pm

I agree with Lind - and the proper tools are not that expensive. I use a $29 tool and can get every single rod end off in less than 10 minutes with no damage. I did it the other way for too many years before I got smart. It's actually fun working with the proper tools. :shock: And now my kids aren't picking up any new words to use at school. :wink:

Don't use a pickle fork unless you don't want to save the parts as it's almost guaranteed to destroy the rubber boot.

This is what I use http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7315A.html $29 plus shipping.

Admin update: New link:
https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/otc-tools-equipment-7315a-P28145.aspx

Other people like this one http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html $11 + shipping

Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:06 pm

It's really easy to do that with the right tools.... :D
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=93805

I'm tooking the engine and tranny out next weekend...
The engine removal i already did it before..no problems...but the tranny removal not.
Any secrets or clues on removing the transmission?

Thanks

Julio

Tue Oct 26, 2004 11:34 pm

novetti wrote: It's really easy to do that with the right tools.... :D
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=93805

I'm tooking the engine and tranny out next weekend...
The engine removal i already did it before..no problems...but the tranny removal not.
Any secrets or clues on removing the transmission?

Thanks

Julio

Here's how to remove the tranny ... http://www.type2.com/library/drivetra/tranrem.htm

Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:36 am

I just read the type 2 article. Very good.
As the author said, i also read Muir's and couldn't found all the info needed.

I was thinking on removing the whole assembly, incluinding the wheels and tires. Do think it's possible?
Because my rear wheels are stuck on the brake drums, and i think will be easier to remove them after the tranny is out.
Anyone did that before? Removing everything together(Tranny+axles+reduction boxes+drums+wheels/tires)?

Thanks

Julio

Thu Nov 04, 2004 5:02 pm

i just bought a pitman arm and tie rod puller (combo made for compact cars) at autozone for $10.00 the other day....pulled my pitman like it was nothin! it was so nice to have a good tool and didn't have to pay very much for it! :lol:

Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:36 pm

we had had to upgrade to a bigger hammer 2 times to get mine out.

Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:59 pm

novetti wrote:
I was thinking on removing the whole assembly, incluinding the wheels and tires. Do think it's possible?
Because my rear wheels are stuck on the brake drums, and i think will be easier to remove them after the tranny is out.
Anyone did that before? Removing everything together(Tranny+axles+reduction boxes+drums+wheels/tires)?
Thanks
Julio
The biggest problem is that the emergency brake cables are attached inside the brake drums. You could always cut the cables and replace with new cables but why do that if they are still good? Second problem is the height you would have to support the rear of bus at to clear the wheels. Not safe. Get the brake drums off where they are, it's a common problem and probably easier with everything mounted solidly to the bus anyway.

Thu Nov 04, 2004 10:36 pm

The Pickle Fork should remove the ball joint, there's also the knuckle tool.
Have you also tried heat? It works, and a little will expand the seating area. Use penetrating oil after you heat it, wait a minute or two then reheat. Be careful the penetrating oil may flash and avoid flame contact with the boot.

A tap or two on the side
or another try with the pickle fork should do it.

Sat Nov 06, 2004 5:57 am

Everything is already out of the bus (engine,tranny,front beam). Check the pics in my gallery.
I will begin my sheetmetal cuts this weekend...

I cut the brake cables. They were too old, rusted and with some kinks...
Took the tranny wit the redux boxes and drums as o whle assembly.

Thanks

Julio

Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:26 am

60kombi wrote: .... If you are a full time mechanic and replace ball joints often fine, buy the tool. I just dont think the ordinary joe out there is going to be doing that.

Mike

I found this post while researching doing the replacement on my 1974 camper. The first ball joint tool bought for $13.50 from NAPA broke! What worked was tool # 27276 from AutoZone. Auto Zone has a tool loaner program I did not know about but for a deposit of $35, the price of the tool, I could borrow the tool at no charge then return it and get my deposit. Not a bad deal at all and the tool was perfect for getting at the drag link ends. You can buy the 27276 for $35.
The replacement drag link is a Mayle from West Coast Metric. It fit fine and the '74 steers just fine now.....no longer runs away from passing semis or side gusts.

EdZ KG6UTS