TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:53 am

Where's the best/strongest four places to block up a '65 bug chassis so I can work on the suspension underneath it? Thanks.

Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:55 am

I put jacks under the torsion tubes front and back, unless you're going to work on those.

Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:57 am

thanks, but need chassis locations...

Wed Oct 27, 2004 11:04 am

In the front where the frame head is, there are two extensions, one out to each side towards the back of the front wheels. You can also use those to support the car. In the back, if I can't use the torsion tubes I would use the frame horns that come off the pan on either side of the tranny, or else I would use the gizmo sold by CIP or Mid-America (I forget which one) that goes into the jack receptacle on each side and has a round pad for a jack.

Just my opinion, but I've done it before without ill effects that I can see.

Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:02 pm

just inboard of spring plates on round tubing.<-rear just inboard of shock towers on bottom beam tube. <-front if you jack on stock jack receptical,you can bend heater channels (not good) ... if your car has 14,000 original miles like the Berg black race car you can put jack stands on jacking point (they did this sat. at drag day#7)

Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:17 am

79SuperVert wrote: .... or else I would use the gizmo sold by CIP or Mid-America (I forget which one) that goes into the jack receptacle on each side and has a round pad for a jack....

They have these at Mid-America. Has anyone actually used one of these?

My floor jack won't fit under my car so I have to use the Bilstein to get the car up enough to get blocks under the tires then the floor jack, then the stands. All of about 30 minutes of jacking just to get under the car.

Fri Oct 29, 2004 7:01 am

I bought a floor jack at Auto Zone for not much money and it fits under the car OK.

Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:35 am

since my car -1967-is lowered i made "ramps" from 2x6's they 2of each-are made 4' long for bottom piece with 45 deg. angle on one end and top piece is 3 ft. long with 45 deg. on one end butted on top even-so i have a step to drive up on then i use my snap-on jack to raise either end.

Fri Oct 29, 2004 3:17 pm

bill may wrote: since my car -1967-is lowered i made "ramps" from 2x6's they 2of each-are made 4' long for bottom piece with 45 deg. angle on one end and top piece is 3 ft. long with 45 deg. on one end butted on top even-so i have a step to drive up on then i use my snap-on jack to raise either end.

I'm sorry that I hi-jacked the thread. My apologies.

....but just a quick note...I have the 2x6 ramps which are a heck of a lot cheaper than the $20+shipping for jack plates.

Fri Oct 29, 2004 4:17 pm

I don’t recommend using the jack recepticles that are connected to the pan. I used mine recently and discovered that the body metal supporting these crushed. It is fixable but I wish it didn’t happen.

Fri Oct 29, 2004 9:01 pm

I would only use the receptacles to raise the car, but then I would put jack stands under other parts of the car to hold the weight. I also would only raise the car a little bit at a time if I was going to use that receptacle thing from Mid America.

Sat Oct 30, 2004 6:21 am

Lifting the rear end put garage jack under tunnel on pan that will work otherells you ruined your engine and tranny mounts