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Wed Nov 03, 2004 4:36 pm

I have a stock 59 bug with 6v electrics.

The front turn signals, running lights, head lights, and high beams are all working fine. The rear of the car is a different story.

The running lights work...and they are the dimmer of the two filaments(switched wires and it was much brighter, so I assume those were the brake light filaments).

But the brake lights do not work at all. And only the driver side turn signal works...although dim (as if it was the running light strength, not the brake light strength).

I have not tested the brake light switch, but how does this explain the turn signals in the rear not working also? Any suggestions so I keep from getting the bird everytime I turn?! Thanks in advance!

Wed Nov 03, 2004 4:40 pm

Cheapest thing first. Are the bulbs good? Contacts clean? Try swapping a bulb you know works (like from the front) to the back just to make sure that's not what it is.

Wed Nov 03, 2004 4:42 pm

Sorry forgot to add, all wires have been cleaned, contacts dremeled, bulbs replaced, all fuses replaced as well. I tried to eliminate alot of variables, but I still have problems.

Wed Nov 03, 2004 5:37 pm

I am no expert, but I would check the grounds at the taillights. Maybe try jumping the ground from a known good one. Just my 2 cents. Good luck

Wed Nov 03, 2004 5:38 pm

http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/bug-58-59.jpg

Are the wires in the signal lever connected? Have you tried using a multimeter to check voltage?

I've had problems when replacing the rear bulbs that they dont seat right and then by loosening the housing and wriggling it a bit while tightening the screws that suddenly the problem is solved

Wed Nov 03, 2004 5:39 pm

I checked that wiring diagram. I have the stock turn signal switch on there, and I don't see any wires that are not connected. This is a PITA

Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:13 pm

Yeah, electrical stuff can kinda suck especially when its 45 years old. I spent 4 hours chasing down why the plate light didnt work and the end result was that something was loose, sometimes. Rigged a new wire and it worked just fine. Months later accidentally disconnected the wire and the original wire still works fine.

Check the brake light switch- have you tried jumping this switch to by pass it?

Start at the bulb end with the volt meter and work your way back to the fuse block and connectors

Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:15 pm

I am going to check the brake switch sometime this week. Gotta find time to put the car up and take the wheel off.

If it is bad, does this explain why the turn signals aren't working well? Or is that anoter situation completely? Any suggestions on taking apart the turn signal switch and making sure all is well inside?

Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:58 pm

I'm looking at it like this:

Since you said that the highbeams work, the front blinkers work, rear lights work and the drivers side rear blinker works, I'm figuring that the wires to the other blinkers are fine, and the grounds are ok since the rear lights work. The chief suspect is the wire for the passenger side rear blinker action, since the light works (Issue B) and the brake switch cause neither one of the brake lights come on.(Issue A)

However before I'd screw with the turn signal switch or the wires to it (Issue B), the brake light switch is a simple thing to check and or replace; then if the brakes work you only have one issue to deal with.

Besides, between you, me, and every one else with itty bitty 6V low mounted rear lights the rear blinkers are effing useless during the day and just a bit less so at night. The brake lights are so much more much more important

Any one else gotta sugggestion?

BTW-Is the turn signal switch mounted to the column horizontally and tightly? I read somewhere that if its loose it can get fucked up.

Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:35 am

Thanks. I ordered a new 2 prong brake switch and I am going to test the old one this weekend. I also gotta read up on bleeding the brakes. I have to make sure that is the problem and bleed them correctly cause this is my daily driver.

As far as the turn signal switch being securly mounted, I did tighten it when I first got the car and that made the signals work. They weren't working before and after tightening they were fine. So all is good there. Keep the suggestions coming if you guys have any!

Thanks!

Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:16 pm

Got a suggestion for bleeding the brakes. Get a Mity-Vac one man bleeder. Works great and is very easy to use. Just hook it up, open the bleeder screw, and pump away about 10-15 strokes, then close the screw and move on to the next wheel (after refilling the brake reservoir). Don't have to pump the pedal or even look for bubbles. 10-15 pumps at each wheel does it. Costs about $25.